Makmov

seems high to me too, especially for an 89

Make sure all the guage cluster lights work. Should like up like a christmas tree until you start the motor.

dkcaims

A few things in your favor with an '89...

Does not have the dual mass flywheel... a good thing!
No airbags to worry about.
Leaks a little oil...without gaskets, it's not uncommon.

It would be nice if you could have a leak-down test done and possibly cut open the oil filter...part of any good ppi.

kingcrowing

Well, I checked it out today and it was awesome. The condition in & out is fantastic, it drove like a champ. Much more visceral and intense than my M3, it sounds awesome and is such a joy to drive.

Everything looks good to me, they had records from its last visit to Daniel Jacobs Porsche in CT. They fixed a bunch of little things (new breaks, windshield wipers, etc.) and said it needed the 75k mile service (it was ~7k overdue), oil leak at power steering pump, oil leak at timing boxes, cam seats and cam housings.

The dealer has a Porsche Master certified tech and he said that he would address all of those issues and made me an offer that sounded pretty good to me. I told him I wanted to sit on it a bit and mull it over before I made a decision, and I may make a counter offer to try and get the price down just a bit more.

PNine64

Nice. I suggest getting a PPI from someone that is working for you (and hasn't seen this car before). A compression test will give you an idea whether an expensive rebuild is in the near future.

911Jetta

That is what I wanted hear after your drive.

These cars are very unique, but they are not for everyone. I remember thinking before my first test drive, "I hope this car is as worth it"...I was sold before we even left the parking lot.

Many happy 911 miles to you!

f3nr15

If I'm reading between the lines correctly, you are thinking about skipping the PPI.

My strong advice to you echoes everyone elses - GET A PPI.

Good luck!

dkcaims

Agreed Peter... Had I gotten a ppi prior to buying, I would have known about the close to 5 figure repair bill that was only a few short months down the road from the time I took delivery.

Last word on this subject from me...

So you spend a few hundred dollars... think about it for a moment...
You plop down 25 g's without a ppi and 2 months later find out it needs 12-15k for a complete rebuild or other work like mine for 8-9k. Trust me, it's not a good feeling!

Get it done !
Good Luck

kingcrowing

I've got two comments

A) The records from the last visit were basically a PPI, they went through basically the whole car listing what they checked, then they went through and fixed a lot of the little issues, and listed the last could things that needed to be addressed (75k mile service & the few small oil leaks). I know you guys seem to be saying you don't think it's enough but it makes me feel better.

B) My service place is 90 minutes away from the dealership, and I'm not really sure where to take it as this seems to be the best place in the area to actually get a Porsche looked it - if I was buying a 911 from an individual in Rutland, I'd probably take it here for a PPI. I did send someone in the Vermont PCA an email to see if they have any recommendations or could offer any help, or perhaps give some advice on this dealership.

kingcrowing

Here is what they checked out:
Brake Rotor & pads, steering, tie rods, ball joints, suspension, drive shafts, hoses, belts, exhaust, tires, lights, power steering pump, power windows/ electronics, battery, AC, spoiler, oil lines, cam housing & seals, timing boxes, and "anything not listed"

kingcrowing

As I've looked a bit more, I'm not sure what's going to be the best option. I'm finding a lot of threads on Rennlist & Pelican parts asking if anyone knows where to get a PPI in VT and they're all dead ends.

The one thread that I did find with someone who does PPIs had a response right after basically saying he bought a car that was inspected by him and he had issues.

The Porsche dealer in VT (also ~90 minutes away) stopped selling Porsche's a few months ago as well so that's not really an option. The place selling the car is the only other place I've seen mentioned.

Merle

I think there is a checklist somewhere online either on here or on pelicanparts. Do your own ppi, well at least as much as you can. I have also read stories of people who have paid for a ppi that didn't find evidence of prior accidents or broken head studs.

Laker

here's one,
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...checklist.html

&
one of the guys here has an updated excel spreadsheet - checklist.

kingcrowing

Fantastic, thanks guys! I've read some basic guides before and tried to look for some of the things on the drive and my inspection (basic stuff like getting into every gear, pressing every button on the dash, etc. and looking at the body inside the boot and engine bay to see if it looks original & straight), but this is a good place to start.

vtrich

I think finding a suitable PPI near Rutland might be an challenge. I know of several qualified mechanics in and around Burlington or near White River Junction, but as you say, those are not close by. As others have pointed out, having at least a leakdown test and possibly compression, would give you some insight into the health of some expensive components. If the seller is willing to do that and document, you'd have something.

Looks pretty nice on the surface. Additonally, a call to Jacobs might give some additional insights if they serviced the car regularly.

Good Luck!

Rich

kingcrowing

Good idea on doing calling Jacobs. It would probably be worth asking if the dealer could check out those tests as well.