Door Locking Problem - Please help!
12-18-2011, 09:43 AM
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Helotes, TX
Posts: 1,307
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Door Locking Problem - Please help!
UPDATED 12/20/2011
I'm replacing my interior and have the door panels off. I would really like to fix a long standing door locking problem while I'm in there. I know there are hundreds of posts on door locking issues, but I can't find a solution to mine.
Automatic lock/unlock can not be accomplished from the driver door. Auto lock/unlock functions normally from passenger side and console.
I previously replaced a broken ball joint connector on the upright linkage under the lock. More recently I removed the driver side handle and reattached the bracket on the back of the lock cylinder. It had come loose and fallen down into, and jammed the mechanism. Now the driver cylinder operates the driver door lock, but I still have no automatic locking/unlocking from the driver door lock.
Alarm now working correctly.
If you've solved this same problem, or if you know what's causing it, your advice would be greatly appreciated.
I'm replacing my interior and have the door panels off. I would really like to fix a long standing door locking problem while I'm in there. I know there are hundreds of posts on door locking issues, but I can't find a solution to mine.
Automatic lock/unlock can not be accomplished from the driver door. Auto lock/unlock functions normally from passenger side and console.
I previously replaced a broken ball joint connector on the upright linkage under the lock. More recently I removed the driver side handle and reattached the bracket on the back of the lock cylinder. It had come loose and fallen down into, and jammed the mechanism. Now the driver cylinder operates the driver door lock, but I still have no automatic locking/unlocking from the driver door lock.
Alarm now working correctly.
If you've solved this same problem, or if you know what's causing it, your advice would be greatly appreciated.
Last edited by altarchsa; 12-20-2011 at 07:02 PM.
12-18-2011, 12:53 PM
#2
Nordschleife Master
I'm not sure from your description if you checked the microswitch on the handle itself? Here's the microswitch attached to the handle (black plastic body attached to the white wire:
When you remove it, there's a nipple underneath that locates in the recess of the white spindle shown here:
It has been known for the nipple to break off, rendering the micro switch useless.
When I had central locking problems I checked both of my handles and found the micro switches to be OK. If you listen carefully next to the handle you can hear the micro switch operate as you turn the key, if it's OK.
In my case, it turned out to be a bad central locking relay. This is housed in a black plastic box about the size of a cigarette packet, under the dash.
When you remove it, there's a nipple underneath that locates in the recess of the white spindle shown here:
It has been known for the nipple to break off, rendering the micro switch useless.
When I had central locking problems I checked both of my handles and found the micro switches to be OK. If you listen carefully next to the handle you can hear the micro switch operate as you turn the key, if it's OK.
In my case, it turned out to be a bad central locking relay. This is housed in a black plastic box about the size of a cigarette packet, under the dash.
12-18-2011, 03:21 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Detroit (Rock City); 1990 C4
Posts: 1,710
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
To add to Steve's post, I discovered recently that the white nipple is assymetrical and won't operate the locks if it's installed incorrectly. Have you had the cylinder out of the handle? If so, rotate it 180* and try again.
The following users liked this post:
klaasvs31 (05-10-2020)
12-20-2011, 06:12 PM
#4
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Helotes, TX
Posts: 1,307
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Boxsey and Feral,
Thanks for the advice. I did check the microswitch, in fact I replaced it as well as the plunger at the bottom of the linkage with spare used parts I bought a while back in anticipation of attacking this problem. They seem to be working properly. The parts work the door lock when activated from the passenger side. The nipples are in good shape on both switches.
I noticed the notching in the white plastic sleeve at the back of the cylinder that mates it to the cylinder in only one correct orientation. I got that back together correctly, and the notch on the side is also properly oriented toward the opening in the handle. Finally, the microswitch is correctly installed relative to the lock.(BTW, thanks for the great pics! They sure made it easy to confirm that I got the parts back together correctly.) As for the controller, it looks eerily like the spoiler controller that consumed a couple of days of my life.
Does the microswitch operate the auto door locking when the cylinder is turned? If so, maybe I have two bad ones and the switch is the problem. But I'm wondering if the offset pin at the back of the cylinder is correctly located related to the grey plastic coated tab. Mine doesn't look exactly like your photo.
Thanks for the advice. I did check the microswitch, in fact I replaced it as well as the plunger at the bottom of the linkage with spare used parts I bought a while back in anticipation of attacking this problem. They seem to be working properly. The parts work the door lock when activated from the passenger side. The nipples are in good shape on both switches.
I noticed the notching in the white plastic sleeve at the back of the cylinder that mates it to the cylinder in only one correct orientation. I got that back together correctly, and the notch on the side is also properly oriented toward the opening in the handle. Finally, the microswitch is correctly installed relative to the lock.(BTW, thanks for the great pics! They sure made it easy to confirm that I got the parts back together correctly.) As for the controller, it looks eerily like the spoiler controller that consumed a couple of days of my life.
Does the microswitch operate the auto door locking when the cylinder is turned? If so, maybe I have two bad ones and the switch is the problem. But I'm wondering if the offset pin at the back of the cylinder is correctly located related to the grey plastic coated tab. Mine doesn't look exactly like your photo.
12-20-2011, 06:29 PM
#5
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Helotes, TX
Posts: 1,307
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My grey plastic coated tab is farther away from the offset pin than yours. Did you have the door closed when you took the picture? I thought that would be unlikely. Mine was open.
Since the hole in the offset pin bracket is square to fit on the end of the cylinder, and there is very little travel in the grey coated tab, I'm not sure how I would adjust anything to get my lock to look like the other pic.
Since the hole in the offset pin bracket is square to fit on the end of the cylinder, and there is very little travel in the grey coated tab, I'm not sure how I would adjust anything to get my lock to look like the other pic.
12-20-2011, 06:38 PM
#7
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Helotes, TX
Posts: 1,307
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Is there a way to complete the microswitch circuit by pinning out its connector at the bottom of the door and thereby definitely test the microswitch?
This thing is driving me nuts!
This thing is driving me nuts!
Trending Topics
12-20-2011, 07:24 PM
#8
Nordschleife Master
From what I could gather about how the locks work, the pin only rests against that grey bar when the door is locked. If you have no power, then turning the key turns that pin and pushes the bar to unlock the car. It's a very heavy mechanical feeling and is only meant for emergency use (dead battery). To then 'mechanically' lock the car you have to use the **** on the door panel to turn it back. Hence, I don't think you need to worry about the position of the pin in your pic.
The normal process (i.e. with power) is that the microswitch signals the central locking relay to operate the power locks on the door. The power locks simply move that bar with the white ball joint on, up and down. Do you know if the power lock is working? If you don't know I guess you could take the one off the other door and plug it in on the driver's side to see if it moves up and down when you operate the key. Here's my pic of a power lock removed from the car:
As said, both my microswitches and power locks were working fine. I then found the relay box under the dash on the passenger side (yes it looks similar to the spoiler control module). It was well hidden ( I needed to get right under there with a flashlight to find it) but once changed everything was working perfectly again. I'd be interested to know if you can find it as others haven't been able to.
I'll try and find my thread about the problem I had.
Here it is:
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...entral+locking
The normal process (i.e. with power) is that the microswitch signals the central locking relay to operate the power locks on the door. The power locks simply move that bar with the white ball joint on, up and down. Do you know if the power lock is working? If you don't know I guess you could take the one off the other door and plug it in on the driver's side to see if it moves up and down when you operate the key. Here's my pic of a power lock removed from the car:
As said, both my microswitches and power locks were working fine. I then found the relay box under the dash on the passenger side (yes it looks similar to the spoiler control module). It was well hidden ( I needed to get right under there with a flashlight to find it) but once changed everything was working perfectly again. I'd be interested to know if you can find it as others haven't been able to.
I'll try and find my thread about the problem I had.
Here it is:
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...entral+locking
12-20-2011, 07:41 PM
#9
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Helotes, TX
Posts: 1,307
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Boxsey,
Thanks. I understand the function of the grey tab bracket now, and I'm familiar with the heavy mechanical operation of the lock without power that you mention. I thought my offset pin bracket had to be correctly installed, and not much could go wrong with the grey tabbed bracket. I just didn't know if the tabbed bracket somehow activated the power because I couldn't see how it would.
The power lock is working fine. I'm now thinking the problem is the controller because I believe the microswitch is working. (If not the original, then the used replacement I installed.) Those two points/coil type large relays in the controller are similar to those in the spoiler controller. I came to believe one of mine was bad in my spoiler controller - after I had already replaced all the transistors of course. That's why I'd like to pin out the microswitch connector before I start chasing controller gremlins.
Thanks. I understand the function of the grey tab bracket now, and I'm familiar with the heavy mechanical operation of the lock without power that you mention. I thought my offset pin bracket had to be correctly installed, and not much could go wrong with the grey tabbed bracket. I just didn't know if the tabbed bracket somehow activated the power because I couldn't see how it would.
The power lock is working fine. I'm now thinking the problem is the controller because I believe the microswitch is working. (If not the original, then the used replacement I installed.) Those two points/coil type large relays in the controller are similar to those in the spoiler controller. I came to believe one of mine was bad in my spoiler controller - after I had already replaced all the transistors of course. That's why I'd like to pin out the microswitch connector before I start chasing controller gremlins.
12-20-2011, 07:58 PM
#10
Nordschleife Master
Unfortunately, my electrical knowledge is very poor and I don't know how you can check the microswitch. The visual and audible inspection you did on yours, is all that I did on mine. Hopefully someone else can chime in on that one.
