FeralComprehension

Door maintenance.

Membranes off.

Residual adhesive (from the 'door seal') on. Really on. This is glue left behind when you remove the plastic membrane behind the door card.

I tried all this:


Gasoline/white gas worked ok, but not great.

How the hell do I get this stuff off?!

tbennett017

Wow... with all those potential fumes, are you able to form words any more? I have had the best luck with WD-40... which it looks like you tried. Also perhaps Goof Off?

After 6 of the Pabst, do you care anymore?

ja78911sc

The PBR did not work

Try 3M adhesive remover with a plastic razor blade. Both can be had at any local auto body supply store.

ryanowen

I pulled all those stripes including the adhesive off my car in short order with one of those 3m eraser wheels. I messed around with adhesive remover first, but the wheel was much, much faster. Wonder if it would work in your application? You're welcome to stop by and pick it up if you want to try.

FeralComprehension

Hell if it didn't! Oh, you meant to remove the adhesive? No, didn't work for that...

@Ryan-

I have one of those; I'll give it a go. It's so narrow though- much better for a pinstripe-ectomy.

I may try the adhesive remover; always good to have another solvent in the quiver!

boxsey911

'Tardis' is the best glue remover I've found. Not sure where you get it in the US though?

Alternatively, seeing as you live in Detroit Rock City get Gene Simmons to come round and breath on it!

Laker

As Mr. Bennett mentioned: "Goof off"

Weed killer? Really?

AEM964

Does the adhesive stay together or come off in chunks?

If it'll stay together try a heat gun and work at it slowly with a plastic razor blade.

If not, Goof Off or any other adhesive remover will most likely be a slow, painful process.

May I ask why you're removing the plastic inside your doors?

I've been inside there and it seems like far too much work.

swmic

PBR is for lightweights. A can of Goebel should do it!!

Navaros911

I use DeSolv-it... no issues and it does not affect your paint.

It also says "Mom approved" on the bottle... so can't be bad

FeralComprehension

Ha, no, not really. Was just making sure you were awake.

FeralComprehension

The heat gun was remarkably ineffectual.

Several reasons stacked up, with the fact that the car is 21 years old at the base of almost all.

The main driver was that the passenger door lock was rejecting the advances of my key, so some PM was demanded there. Upon removal of the door card I found that a) the old plastic membrane had shrunk, pulled away from the bottom, and was allowing water to the rear of the door card and then into the car. I also found that whomever had installed the door speakers had done a crappy job (wow, now there's a surprise...) and thrashed on the membrane where the speakers sit. Remarkably (really) the edges where the original openings for the larger of the speakers were cut back (tin snips, maybe? WTF.) weren't rusty at all.

Making things more exciting almost immediately was that one of the studs which hold the door handle to the door were fused to its nut, and consequently stripped on the door handle end. I had to reach into the door with a dremel and zip the nut off (it takes a very steady hand....). Once I had the handle off the car I cut the remainder of the stud off, drilled it out, made a new stud from a correctly sized capscrew, and then epoxied it back into the zinc door handle. At $400 a copy, you know I'm going to try and save the stocker.

I've also uprated the speaker wiring, replaced the window switch, added anti corrosion liquid to the bottom of the door, and lubricated all the mechanisms I can get to.

On the driver side, the key works fine. But... there's rust bubbles along the bottom of the door seam and the door strike face is shredded where some ******** executed an absolutely half-assed checkstrap repair (think fender washers the edges of which bear against the torn metal edge where the fasteners used to be. Honestly, the proper repair for that nonsense is probably a new door but I'm a cheap bastard and think I can get another 10 years out of the door so long as I stay on top of it and don't insist on concourse-level originality.

Navaros911

What corrosion liquid are you planning on using?

Atgani

http://www.sterlingproducts.co.uk/Ex...r/prod_65.html

Awesome gear (and very similar to the afforementioned Tardis)

Get a clean soft piece of cloth, soak it in the above product and leave it on the adhesive for four or five minutes (you can rub it in if it makes you feel better, but personally I leave the product to do the work. Why have a dog and bark ?)

Once it's removed the adhesive you MUST ensure you wipe off all the Wipeout as left on the paintwork for any length of time it makes the paint go dull.

FeralComprehension

Tardis and Wipeout seem to be UK-specific.

Ha! I'm glad you asked, as I'm running an experiment.

I've used CorrosionX for several years on my guns, and recently got some of the 'Heavy Duty' version as well. The original version completely stopped a surface rusting issue I had on a SIG Sauer P228, which is well known for it's lack of resilience in this area. One of the really good things about the original is it's affinity for metal- it'll creep out across the surface by itself. The HD product does NOT do this to the same extent, which IMO is unfortunate as you can't be sure of full coverage with spray application and the number of available nooks and crannies. The passenger (non-rusty) door got a light spray of regular CX, which I allowed to sit for several days, and then a heavier coat of CXHD, spread about with gloved fingers.

CorrosionX website: http://www.corrosionx.com/
(no affiliation)

Recently I bought a gallon of TC11 after poring over their website. It's creepy too, but is purported to be a heavier coating than the thin CorrosionX original flavor. They also claim better compatibility with various plastics, which is something I always worried about with CX (based on fear, not on experience). The rusty driver door got TC11.

I also did the undercarriage of my new-to-me 80k mile '04 CRV with TC11; it's in pretty good shape, but salty slushy Michigan winters can change that in short order.

TC11 website: http://www.tc-11.com/
(no affiliation)

Here's a photo demo of TC11's 'creepiness':

This is a 1" piece of steel stock. I dipped the lower ~1" in TC11 then placed it vertically on my workbench. Over the span of about a week, the TC11 crept uphill to the indicated line.