Advise on wheel spacer...please
11-03-2011, 10:18 PM
#16
So you have 8ET52 with your proposed 19mm spacer = 8ET33.
8" = 203mm width with 148mm backspacing = 55mm outer rim edge to hub.
I have 10ET40 (with full neg camber -2deg & guard roll)
10" = 254mm width with 180mm backspacing = 74mm outer rim edge to hub.
ie so my outer wheel edge is further outwards by 19mm compared to your proposal (but using full neg camber & guard roll to squeeze it under the guard - obviously tyre size has an impact also).
8" = 203mm width with 148mm backspacing = 55mm outer rim edge to hub.
I have 10ET40 (with full neg camber -2deg & guard roll)
10" = 254mm width with 180mm backspacing = 74mm outer rim edge to hub.
ie so my outer wheel edge is further outwards by 19mm compared to your proposal (but using full neg camber & guard roll to squeeze it under the guard - obviously tyre size has an impact also).
11-04-2011, 08:16 AM
#17
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One should mention the fact that you will need new, longer studs.
Proper installation of the studs involves removal of the hubs and the use of a press; please do not use any of the "hammering" techniques you may have read about.
Proper installation of the studs involves removal of the hubs and the use of a press; please do not use any of the "hammering" techniques you may have read about.
11-05-2011, 12:41 AM
#18
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I was stuck at work last night but, when I got home today, I did a little test:
I don't have a 8ET52 wheel but I do have a 8ET50 wheel (from my front MY02's) - yes, they are 18" and not 17" but that should not matter. They have well worn MPSC's as well so tire width may play a small part - tires are 245/35 which is very close the the OP's 255/40.
I used a set of spacers that added up to 18 mm (sorry Dwane, no 19 mm spacers available) to get an effective ET32 (sorry, 8ET32
) which is very close to the 8ET33 suggested here earlier.
While my car is still on the lift getting CV joints done, I re-installed a brake rotor and one brake caliper and then installed the spacers and the 8" wheel. I only put one wheel back on so the car is still slightly supported by the lift so would sit slightly lower if off the lift completely.
Sorry for the crappy photos - I was hurrying.
Now, as we can see, at least on my car this combination would not work as the tire is pushed out further than the fender. My alignment might differ that the OP's (Euro RS height, -3.2 degrees camber, rolled fender) but with less camber, the tire will sit more straight upright and would rub something fierce.
While it does fill the arch, I think the tractor look with the wheel pushed out so far is not attractive and the tires on the rear would not last long from the rubbing.
Anyway, I would still suggest that an ET43-47 would be right but will qualify it by saying that those measurements are right, regardless of wheel width on my car - as always, YYMV based on car and alignment settings.
15+3 mm spacers add up to an 18 mm spacer.
Car still slightly on the lift.
View from the front.
View from the rear.
View from above.
Marc
I don't have a 8ET52 wheel but I do have a 8ET50 wheel (from my front MY02's) - yes, they are 18" and not 17" but that should not matter. They have well worn MPSC's as well so tire width may play a small part - tires are 245/35 which is very close the the OP's 255/40.
I used a set of spacers that added up to 18 mm (sorry Dwane, no 19 mm spacers available) to get an effective ET32 (sorry, 8ET32
) which is very close to the 8ET33 suggested here earlier.While my car is still on the lift getting CV joints done, I re-installed a brake rotor and one brake caliper and then installed the spacers and the 8" wheel. I only put one wheel back on so the car is still slightly supported by the lift so would sit slightly lower if off the lift completely.
Sorry for the crappy photos - I was hurrying.
Now, as we can see, at least on my car this combination would not work as the tire is pushed out further than the fender. My alignment might differ that the OP's (Euro RS height, -3.2 degrees camber, rolled fender) but with less camber, the tire will sit more straight upright and would rub something fierce.
While it does fill the arch, I think the tractor look with the wheel pushed out so far is not attractive and the tires on the rear would not last long from the rubbing.
Anyway, I would still suggest that an ET43-47 would be right but will qualify it by saying that those measurements are right, regardless of wheel width on my car - as always, YYMV based on car and alignment settings.
15+3 mm spacers add up to an 18 mm spacer.
Car still slightly on the lift.
View from the front.
View from the rear.
View from above.
Marc
11-05-2011, 08:53 AM
#19
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Marc, if you don't mind me asking, what size rear tire are you running? I could be wrong but it looks like a Hoosier R6. I have a set of BBS's for my track car with wrong offsets that need to be resized with new shells.
Thanks,
Dan
Thanks,
Dan
11-05-2011, 12:20 PM
#20
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That is a MPSC but I also use the R6's.
On the rear I am running 275/35/18 R6's on 10ET65 MY02's (spaced 21 mm) with no issues (-3.2, Euro RS, rolled fender and factory flattened oil line).
Marc
11-05-2011, 04:20 PM
#22
What parts are required to get to -3.2 in the rear?
My car is very low and the max neg camber that we could get with the stock setup was about -2. (I have JIC Cross coilovers but the rear is not camber adjustable so it is essentially no different to stock from a camber perspective).
My car is very low and the max neg camber that we could get with the stock setup was about -2. (I have JIC Cross coilovers but the rear is not camber adjustable so it is essentially no different to stock from a camber perspective).
11-06-2011, 01:23 AM
#23
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What parts are required to get to -3.2 in the rear?
My car is very low and the max neg camber that we could get with the stock setup was about -2. (I have JIC Cross coilovers but the rear is not camber adjustable so it is essentially no different to stock from a camber perspective).
My car is very low and the max neg camber that we could get with the stock setup was about -2. (I have JIC Cross coilovers but the rear is not camber adjustable so it is essentially no different to stock from a camber perspective).
Marc
