Lowered 964 vs. my driveway
08-24-2011, 05:29 PM
#16
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OK, this is the system. It doesn't look like it's available for the 964, although I don't really see why it wouldn't work! Probably not the cheapest of options when compared to a couple of 2x4's though..!!!
http://www.cargraphic.co.uk/index.ph...esolution=1024
http://www.cargraphic.co.uk/index.ph...esolution=1024
08-24-2011, 05:48 PM
#18
Three Wheelin'
Yes, "Plus 1" and "Plus 2" sizings should not change the working OD of the wheel/tire.
I had the opposite problem when I moved into my house a few years ago - the gutter berm of the cul-de-sac formed a crest, and my driveway slopes steeply down from there. I would've gotten high-centered going from either direction. The P-car had to stay in storage until I got an asphalt co. out to heat up & shave the berm. Couldn't go too far, or I'd have rainwater gushing down my driveway from the cul-de-sac. Now it clears, but just barely. I can't really lower anything I own.
When I get the 3 labs loaded into my Volvo R wagon which is ever-so-slightly lowered, the center exhaust bracket touches if I have a full tank of gas.
You have two convex surfaces intersecting. You can't solve it with ramps unless you'd go halfway out into the street. You need to create a tangency (or nearly), and since you can't work on the street, you really need to scallop out the driveway, probably 6-8 ft. in at a minimum, to create a concave that meets the street and then gradually slopes into the driveway grade going towards the house. That would work. Then you might have little drainage problem at the low spot, without a new drain. Ay ay ay...
I had the opposite problem when I moved into my house a few years ago - the gutter berm of the cul-de-sac formed a crest, and my driveway slopes steeply down from there. I would've gotten high-centered going from either direction. The P-car had to stay in storage until I got an asphalt co. out to heat up & shave the berm. Couldn't go too far, or I'd have rainwater gushing down my driveway from the cul-de-sac. Now it clears, but just barely. I can't really lower anything I own.
When I get the 3 labs loaded into my Volvo R wagon which is ever-so-slightly lowered, the center exhaust bracket touches if I have a full tank of gas.You have two convex surfaces intersecting. You can't solve it with ramps unless you'd go halfway out into the street. You need to create a tangency (or nearly), and since you can't work on the street, you really need to scallop out the driveway, probably 6-8 ft. in at a minimum, to create a concave that meets the street and then gradually slopes into the driveway grade going towards the house. That would work. Then you might have little drainage problem at the low spot, without a new drain. Ay ay ay...
08-24-2011, 06:14 PM
#19
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Bear claw,
I had an s60r. Was advised to remove that center u shaped
Bracket. Seems like its only purpose was to hold the pipe if the hangers
failed. Heard of a few reports of it bending up and damaging
The exhaust. If I'm thinking about the same bracket?
I had an s60r. Was advised to remove that center u shaped
Bracket. Seems like its only purpose was to hold the pipe if the hangers
failed. Heard of a few reports of it bending up and damaging
The exhaust. If I'm thinking about the same bracket?
08-24-2011, 06:23 PM
#20
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Hi Laker... I have the H&R/ Bilstein set at RS ride height and have to back out with a turn when I get to the street and that gives me the little bit extra I need....
08-24-2011, 06:54 PM
#22
Rennlist Member
12 pack, see how many times you can scrape ! Haa. I bet an angled approach as described previously will work.
08-24-2011, 08:57 PM
#23
Drifting
Thread Starter
If it doesn't clear, I'll sit high and tight while I will pursue driveway-scaping. Don't see hydraulics in my future, but I like the way you all think. Thanks for all the ideas!
08-24-2011, 09:06 PM
#24
Three Wheelin'
Yep, those are on the newer "P2" cars. Removal is Job #1 if you buy one that still has it. Mine is a "Gen 1" (2000), the whole exhaust hangs down in a come-and-get-me pose.
08-25-2011, 12:47 PM
#25
Rennlist Member
Great thread topic Laker!
I took similar pictures last fall that I was going to post with the same question...
You're clearance looks extremely tight.
I have a little more clearance, but I also worry I might start scraping if I lower it 1"+??
I took similar pictures last fall that I was going to post with the same question...
You're clearance looks extremely tight.
I have a little more clearance, but I also worry I might start scraping if I lower it 1"+??
08-25-2011, 01:00 PM
#26
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It's be interesting to see the difference to reversing in if anyone has photos of that to compare as mine is fine if I reverse out, but not going in forwards. I think the rear overhang is better than the front?
09-13-2011, 08:58 PM
#27
Drifting
Thread Starter
Jetta, I was wondering why you never lowered.... looks like we have the same issue!
Well my driveway guinea pig (CJB964) has been tied-up with work, so no updates on what happens with a lowered car. I already have H&R Greens and Bilstein HDs ready to go in this winter as long as CJB964 can clear the driveway entrance. Waiting isn't satisfying my addiciton, so I found a set of Cup I's (7Jx17 and 9Jx17 - ET55 - 965.362.128.00 & 965.362.124.00) on Craigslist from a '91 Turbo. Mobile wheel refinisher is stopping by tomorrow to see if he can pretty them up a bit.
Here's the way I got them, and now that they've been cleaned up a bit. Yes they are a little rough, but local, authentic Cup I's I just couldn't let get away.
Now I just gotta figure out which tires.....I will only drive about 500 miles this winter in below freezing temperatures, so I guess I still need an all-season to ensure the rubber can cope with the cold. I have Continental DWS, and happy, but would entertain other summer-like performance tires that can handle the cold..... no need to handle the snow and ice.
Well my driveway guinea pig (CJB964) has been tied-up with work, so no updates on what happens with a lowered car. I already have H&R Greens and Bilstein HDs ready to go in this winter as long as CJB964 can clear the driveway entrance. Waiting isn't satisfying my addiciton, so I found a set of Cup I's (7Jx17 and 9Jx17 - ET55 - 965.362.128.00 & 965.362.124.00) on Craigslist from a '91 Turbo. Mobile wheel refinisher is stopping by tomorrow to see if he can pretty them up a bit.
Here's the way I got them, and now that they've been cleaned up a bit. Yes they are a little rough, but local, authentic Cup I's I just couldn't let get away.
Now I just gotta figure out which tires.....I will only drive about 500 miles this winter in below freezing temperatures, so I guess I still need an all-season to ensure the rubber can cope with the cold. I have Continental DWS, and happy, but would entertain other summer-like performance tires that can handle the cold..... no need to handle the snow and ice.
Last edited by Laker; 09-14-2011 at 06:40 PM.
09-13-2011, 10:56 PM
#28
Rennlist Member
I know all about that bracket. I have a 04 v70r and caught that bracket on a speed bump and driveway ramp ( both on the way home from buying it in Mass). Drove the exhaust right up into drive shaft. It still hits the driveshaft to this day when it goes through certain heating and cooling cycles.
09-14-2011, 06:39 AM
#29
Three Wheelin'
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Hey Laker. Still haven't figured out where to mount my County Corg license plate. I'ts still sitting on the mantle. Great looking conversation piece. Thanks again.
OK, having designed a few parking garages in my career, I can say that your driveway problem isn't so much the steep angle, but the "breakover", or transition between the the angle of the street and the drive. Basically, you have none. In section (profile), the street and drive are two straight lines that intersect. It looks like the drive was built after the street and they didn't even cut the curb, they just bridged up to the top of it with asphalt in the gutter.
The only way to correct the problem is to cut the curb out and rebuild a short section of the drive. I'm sure you're already in violation of the City or community's driveway standards with asphalt blocking the gutter. You would need to regrade the drive to result in a longer "s" curve, in vertical profile, between the street and drive. That would involve excavating the first 10' or so of your yard.
Having grown up in the country, the advice to cross the grade change at an angle was good advice. But you really can't accomplish a good "fix" of the drive problem without some serious pavement work.
My suggestion is to at least get an estimate for the work and see if you can't rationalize it as improvements that increase the value of your property. With the recession, you might get a surprisingly low price.
At the same time, you could get an estimate for the least expensive option, which would be to add an arched area of pavement out onto your lawn which would allow you to swing wide when entering/exiting and crossing the breakover at a sharper angle. An optional feature would be to add to the width at the curb line to give you a little more room to cross the curb at an angle.
Just my opinion. Good luck with your decision. Hope you don't just procrastinate on upgrading your car!
OK, having designed a few parking garages in my career, I can say that your driveway problem isn't so much the steep angle, but the "breakover", or transition between the the angle of the street and the drive. Basically, you have none. In section (profile), the street and drive are two straight lines that intersect. It looks like the drive was built after the street and they didn't even cut the curb, they just bridged up to the top of it with asphalt in the gutter.
The only way to correct the problem is to cut the curb out and rebuild a short section of the drive. I'm sure you're already in violation of the City or community's driveway standards with asphalt blocking the gutter. You would need to regrade the drive to result in a longer "s" curve, in vertical profile, between the street and drive. That would involve excavating the first 10' or so of your yard.
Having grown up in the country, the advice to cross the grade change at an angle was good advice. But you really can't accomplish a good "fix" of the drive problem without some serious pavement work.
My suggestion is to at least get an estimate for the work and see if you can't rationalize it as improvements that increase the value of your property. With the recession, you might get a surprisingly low price.
At the same time, you could get an estimate for the least expensive option, which would be to add an arched area of pavement out onto your lawn which would allow you to swing wide when entering/exiting and crossing the breakover at a sharper angle. An optional feature would be to add to the width at the curb line to give you a little more room to cross the curb at an angle.
Just my opinion. Good luck with your decision. Hope you don't just procrastinate on upgrading your car!
