DIY Rear/Engine Decklid strut replacement-
08-05-2011, 01:43 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
DIY Rear/Engine Decklid strut replacement-
When I popped the engine hood, it would just lift an inch and I would have to manually fully extend it, where it would stay in place.
I thought this was normal, until a recent 964 meet. So my shot, and quite possibly original, rear hood struts needed a replacement.
Required Parts list:
Gas strut x2 911-512-331-01 (Turbo / heavy spoiler 911-512-331-02)
Optional parts: You can reuse everything below, but in case you lose a part, here is the complete list.
Front Pin x2 999-166-043-02
Rear Pin x2 999-166-010-02
Clip x4. N-012-645-2
Would be a good idea to order a couple of clips, just in case.
Tools.
A piece of wood 30-31" (77-78cm) long.
Needle nose pliers
old white sheet, t-shirt etc to catch falling parts.
Magnetic grabber to fetch dropped parts
(note how 50% of the the tools are to find missing parts :-)
Prop the engine lid open with the wood.
Right side first:
Remove the air box cover to give you some room to work. Two clips on the back of the airbox, two on the front. Leave the air filter in place to protect against flying clips from the strut.
Lay out the white cloth beneath the airbox to catch any clips or pins.
The key to this job is learning how to work with the little N-012-645-2 clips.
To remove them, simply grab them with a needle nose at the red X and pull away to clear the pin and slide off in the direction opposite from where you grabbed it.
Once the clips are off, carefully remove the pins, and swap out the old strut for a new one.
Carefully note that the pins are different lengths and each end of the struts are different (forward and rear) so don't mix them up.
Practice sliding the forward pin in and clipping the tip with one hand, as it's much harder on the other (left) side if you choose not to remove the blower fan.
When I had just one replacement strut in, the deck lid popped open all the way. I could have stopped here, but figured it probably wasn't good to have most of the force on just one side as it might eventually twist/warp the deck lid.
After clipping the airbox cover back on, I moved to the other side,.
I was able to get my hand on both ends of the strut, with the blower motor still in.
This side would have been much easier with it removed, but if I wanted easy, I would have gotten a 911SC.
Again lay out a white cloth and carefully remove the clips with a tug and push. Replacing the forward pin and clip is a PITA with the blower in, but when I finally got it after about 5 minutes of fiddling and tuning my fine motor skills, it was nice to be done and not have to deal with the blower re-assembly. The trick for me with the left front clip was to do it all by feel. I was actually kneeling next to the car's left rear tire , and not behind the bumper, with my right arm in and past the top of the blower motor. When you look at what you're doing you lose much of your arm's length, which is much better utilized with an all-feel approach.
That's it. Now when I put a quart of oil on the spoiler and pop the deck lid release it can launch the quart 12 feet into the air
I thought this was normal, until a recent 964 meet. So my shot, and quite possibly original, rear hood struts needed a replacement.
Required Parts list:
Gas strut x2 911-512-331-01 (Turbo / heavy spoiler 911-512-331-02)
Optional parts: You can reuse everything below, but in case you lose a part, here is the complete list.
Front Pin x2 999-166-043-02
Rear Pin x2 999-166-010-02
Clip x4. N-012-645-2
Would be a good idea to order a couple of clips, just in case.
Tools.
A piece of wood 30-31" (77-78cm) long.
Needle nose pliers
old white sheet, t-shirt etc to catch falling parts.
Magnetic grabber to fetch dropped parts
(note how 50% of the the tools are to find missing parts :-)
Prop the engine lid open with the wood.
Right side first:
Remove the air box cover to give you some room to work. Two clips on the back of the airbox, two on the front. Leave the air filter in place to protect against flying clips from the strut.
Lay out the white cloth beneath the airbox to catch any clips or pins.
The key to this job is learning how to work with the little N-012-645-2 clips.
To remove them, simply grab them with a needle nose at the red X and pull away to clear the pin and slide off in the direction opposite from where you grabbed it.
Once the clips are off, carefully remove the pins, and swap out the old strut for a new one.
Carefully note that the pins are different lengths and each end of the struts are different (forward and rear) so don't mix them up.
Practice sliding the forward pin in and clipping the tip with one hand, as it's much harder on the other (left) side if you choose not to remove the blower fan.
When I had just one replacement strut in, the deck lid popped open all the way. I could have stopped here, but figured it probably wasn't good to have most of the force on just one side as it might eventually twist/warp the deck lid.
After clipping the airbox cover back on, I moved to the other side,.
I was able to get my hand on both ends of the strut, with the blower motor still in.
This side would have been much easier with it removed, but if I wanted easy, I would have gotten a 911SC.
Again lay out a white cloth and carefully remove the clips with a tug and push. Replacing the forward pin and clip is a PITA with the blower in, but when I finally got it after about 5 minutes of fiddling and tuning my fine motor skills, it was nice to be done and not have to deal with the blower re-assembly. The trick for me with the left front clip was to do it all by feel. I was actually kneeling next to the car's left rear tire , and not behind the bumper, with my right arm in and past the top of the blower motor. When you look at what you're doing you lose much of your arm's length, which is much better utilized with an all-feel approach.
That's it. Now when I put a quart of oil on the spoiler and pop the deck lid release it can launch the quart 12 feet into the air
Last edited by Laker; 02-14-2012 at 08:35 PM.
08-05-2011, 03:11 PM
#4
Yeah, I can advise you to order a couple extra pins. I did this during my last valve adjustment, and the left side was very fiddly. I lost one of the pins on this side, and could never spot it.
Regards,
Clay
Regards,
Clay
08-05-2011, 04:28 PM
#5
I did this on my car and it was an exercise in patience. I am sorry to convey my lesson learned as it is completely ridiculous but here goes...
The old strut will not show any signs of wear. When I put the old one on the floor...it immediately blended and I couldn't tell it from the second new strut. I had a good laugh (and another beer)
and put off finishing this project. The driver's side looks tighter than the passenger. I am waiting to do this until I get to the blower motor rehab project.
The decklid does stay up with only one new strut.
The old strut will not show any signs of wear. When I put the old one on the floor...it immediately blended and I couldn't tell it from the second new strut. I had a good laugh (and another beer)
and put off finishing this project. The driver's side looks tighter than the passenger. I am waiting to do this until I get to the blower motor rehab project.The decklid does stay up with only one new strut.
08-05-2011, 08:06 PM
#7
Drifting
Thread Starter
I had problems finding Weltmeister (Lifetime guarantee)
The OEM Stabilus are $16.25 each at Pelican, $14.19 at AutohausAZ. Since I'm not impressed with the Stabilus, I tried another brand called "Uro" for $8 each + shipping. This also helped to ensure I didn't mix the old and new struts
The OEM Stabilus are $16.25 each at Pelican, $14.19 at AutohausAZ. Since I'm not impressed with the Stabilus, I tried another brand called "Uro" for $8 each + shipping. This also helped to ensure I didn't mix the old and new struts
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01-12-2014, 02:45 PM
#9
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Can someone provide the correct pelican part number for the decklid shocks for a 964 cabriolet with the snorkel brake light? I ordered 993-512-321-00 http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...g12.htm#item56 but I fear that these are to support a turbo wing or perhaps the 993 handlebar light is heavier than mine.
Peter
Peter
01-13-2014, 11:20 PM
#13
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Pelican tell me to try using the 993 shocks, but they do say I ordered the wrong ones. Funny how the pelican guy called me at home to check my order for the 993 motor mounts and the 928 shifter ball cup, but not the struts. Must have thought I knew better. Wrong!
01-14-2014, 10:51 PM
#14
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I opened up the 993 packaged deck lid shocks to find identical dimensions as well as 0370N printed on the shock, identical to the strength of the 01 shocks. So, I'm going to try them since returning them is worth more than the $10 difference.
07-07-2014, 12:07 PM
#15
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993 decklid shocks dont fit well in the 964.
Finally go around to fitting them. The 993 struts DO NOT FIT properly in the 964. They are about 1/2" shorter, and the decklid does not raise up enough really. They will work, but I decided to struggle and put my OEM ones back in and send these back for a replacement via RMA.