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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 11:49 AM
  #16  
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Interesting... lots of fingers pointing to potential ignition problems. I hadn't really considered that, since I didn't see a link between engine temperature. However, that's why it's nice to have so many minds helping me think out of the box.

I was assuming that there must be a sensor not doing it's job and confusing the DME into providing the wrong air/fuel mixture.

Anyway, I checked for visible spark leakage, but my garage (with windows) faces a series of street lights that keep me from getting it very dark. So I didn't see obvious arcing. How easy will it be to see ignition wire arcing?

Thanks!
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 04:13 PM
  #17  
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Spray a mist of water around the area with an atomiser which should allow you to see any arcing easier.
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Andy Roe
Spray a mist of water around the area with an atomiser which should allow you to see any arcing easier.
Excellent, thanks. I'll give it a try tonight when it gets darker.
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 06:33 PM
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Be sure to look where the boots attach to the distributor caps too - sometimes there's arcing there also, not just between wires or other objects.

Good luck!
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 07:07 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by RSAErick
Did this generate a CEL fault code?
The only two systems the CEL are tied into is the O2 sensor and the Evap.
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 07:17 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Makmov
The only two systems the CEL are tied into is the O2 sensor and the Evap.
What is the "Evap."?
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Makmov
The only two systems the CEL are tied into is the O2 sensor and the Evap.
I got the CEL light, constant on, while running due to the 1151 code (the non-intermittent version of 1251) which was the injector fault.
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Shamus964
I got the CEL light, constant on, while running due to the 1151 code (the non-intermittent version of 1251) which was the injector fault.
IIRC Porsche says it is only directly connected to the O2 and Fuel Evaporative system.

I suspose your faulty could have indirectly impacted the CEL.
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 08:38 PM
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That may have been the 89-90 CEL implementation but starting in 1991 cars in the US had an 'active' CEL which gives more info. As an example, if you have an earlier car w/out this active CEL you can't pull the codes as shown in the link earlier in the thread.

The codes that can be given are: (where you see 'x' could be a '1' or '2' for constant or intermittent respectively.)

• Code 1000 - End of fault code reporting sequence
• Code 1500 - No faults detected
• Code 1X11 - Supply voltage
• Code 1X12 - Idle speed contact ground short
• Code 1X15 - Idle speed contact break
• Code 1X13 - Full load contact
• Code 1X14 - Engine temperature sensor II
• Code 1X21 - Air flow sensor
• Code 1X22 - Idle speed control activation
• Code 1X23 - Oxygen regulation stop
• Code 1X24 - Oxygen sensor
• Code 1X25 - Intake air temperature sensor
• Code 1X31 - Knock sensor I
• Code 1X32 - Knock sensor II
• Code 1X33 - Control unit faulty, knock computer
• Code 1X34 - Hall signal
• Code 1X41 - Control unit faulty
• Code 1X43 - Tank venting valve
• Code 1X44 - Resonance plate
• Code 1X45 - Check engine warning lamp (it detects it's own errors???)
• Code 1X51->56 - Injection valve - injection control unit (one for each injector)
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 09:50 PM
  #25  
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That could be.

It was sometime during the 91 model year they switched. Not all 91s are active.
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 10:06 PM
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Had the same problem. The shop changed all the coil packs (they have not been changed since new) when all of what you've done on the DME and checking the fault codes showed no problems.

Car's running fine now.
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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 02:18 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by ACSGP
Had the same problem. The shop changed all the coil packs (they have not been changed since new) when all of what you've done on the DME and checking the fault codes showed no problems.

Car's running fine now.
Very interesting! I hate to throw parts at the car, but don't know what else to do at this time.

Does anyone know the best place to buy Bosch coils? Dealer wants $211 each!
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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 02:20 AM
  #28  
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Update: Misted the ignition wires, coils, and distributor caps with fine water spray. There was no visible arcing that I could see. I'm not sure how obvious the arcing should be, and I didn't spray the bottom wires from under the car - so I guess that it could still possibly be ignition wires.
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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 02:37 AM
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Did you try unplugging the ISV when the idle is stumbling? Also, probably not a wires issue if no arching visible so that's good news!
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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 02:50 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Shamus964
Did you try unplugging the ISV when the idle is stumbling? Also, probably not a wires issue if no arching visible so that's good news!
Haven't tried unplugging the ISV. Ok, what am I looking for with that procedure? Should it die when uplugged?

Thanks.
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