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Interesting... lots of fingers pointing to potential ignition problems. I hadn't really considered that, since I didn't see a link between engine temperature. However, that's why it's nice to have so many minds helping me think out of the box.
I was assuming that there must be a sensor not doing it's job and confusing the DME into providing the wrong air/fuel mixture.
Anyway, I checked for visible spark leakage, but my garage (with windows) faces a series of street lights that keep me from getting it very dark. So I didn't see obvious arcing. How easy will it be to see ignition wire arcing?
That may have been the 89-90 CEL implementation but starting in 1991 cars in the US had an 'active' CEL which gives more info. As an example, if you have an earlier car w/out this active CEL you can't pull the codes as shown in the link earlier in the thread.
The codes that can be given are: (where you see 'x' could be a '1' or '2' for constant or intermittent respectively.)
• Code 1000 - End of fault code reporting sequence
• Code 1500 - No faults detected
• Code 1X11 - Supply voltage
• Code 1X12 - Idle speed contact ground short
• Code 1X15 - Idle speed contact break
• Code 1X13 - Full load contact
• Code 1X14 - Engine temperature sensor II
• Code 1X21 - Air flow sensor
• Code 1X22 - Idle speed control activation
• Code 1X23 - Oxygen regulation stop
• Code 1X24 - Oxygen sensor
• Code 1X25 - Intake air temperature sensor
• Code 1X31 - Knock sensor I
• Code 1X32 - Knock sensor II
• Code 1X33 - Control unit faulty, knock computer
• Code 1X34 - Hall signal
• Code 1X41 - Control unit faulty
• Code 1X43 - Tank venting valve
• Code 1X44 - Resonance plate
• Code 1X45 - Check engine warning lamp (it detects it's own errors???)
• Code 1X51->56 - Injection valve - injection control unit (one for each injector)
Had the same problem. The shop changed all the coil packs (they have not been changed since new) when all of what you've done on the DME and checking the fault codes showed no problems.
Had the same problem. The shop changed all the coil packs (they have not been changed since new) when all of what you've done on the DME and checking the fault codes showed no problems.
Car's running fine now.
Very interesting! I hate to throw parts at the car, but don't know what else to do at this time.
Does anyone know the best place to buy Bosch coils? Dealer wants $211 each!
Update: Misted the ignition wires, coils, and distributor caps with fine water spray. There was no visible arcing that I could see. I'm not sure how obvious the arcing should be, and I didn't spray the bottom wires from under the car - so I guess that it could still possibly be ignition wires.
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