Ducks964

it appears that my clutch is fading fast in my 1990 C4. A friend and I have decided to tackle this project over the next month (going to take my time and document everything). He has agreed to help and only charges beer.

Since I believe the flywheel is original, probably want to do this with everything out. I am still debating the RS flywheel kit or the Andial mid-weight kit (this is a street car only).

Any suggestions where to get full clutch and/or flywheel kits? Or does someone have a list of all the parts needed that would help me work to get all the parts in house.

Thanks for everyone's help. I will start a post to document the adventure once the project begins.

mjcumming

I am in the same place as you - need a new clutch and plan on changing the flywheel. 1990 C4 cab. Just started researching parts... conflicting reports on the LW flywheel.

Silvertarga

LW flywheel is supposedly noisy...I doubt that I could hear it over my exhaust...I stayed with the dual mass LUK...

Laker

DMF: Luk DMF013 Ordered Jun 1st, at noon. Received today at noon

Sachs Clutch Kit

I'm in the same boat as you

mjcumming

I am ordering the same thing

Luk DMF013

and

Sachs KF793-01

I was quoted 106 hours of labor to drop the engine, do the clutch and flywheel and replace a few other minor things.

SuperUser

106 or 10.6?

mjcumming

Sorry, typo....

18 hours of shop labor.

Makmov

I can find out, I got mine from some big importer of Luk in AZ for under $600.

mjcumming

Quick update...

Ordered the above parts, both from ebay. Installed by shop without problem. Car is running great.

Saved about $2k over original Porsche parts.

wellcraft290

106 hours? geez i don't think it took that long to build the whole car.

mjcumming

that was a typo.... was 18 hours.

Laker

Thanks for updating us that these are the correct parts

Shamus964

There are posts around that have the euro RS part numbers and I heartily recommend the setup. The parts I used for my 1991 C2 are listed below. The LWFW isn't loud at all in my opinion, certainly not harsh. The increased performance was transformative to the car. Seriously good mod.

I bought my setup from Sunset when they had their annual swap meet day - bigtime savings doing it that way. If you go that direction, don't forget to budget for a Steve Wong chip to avoid idle issues.

Good luck!

1991 C2 parts:

Quantity P/N Description
1 964-116-028-90 Pressure Plate
1 964-102-239-31 RS Flywheel
1 996-116-015-32 RS Clutch Disc
1 964-114-143-31 RS Ring Gear
1 944-116-080-01 Release Bearing
1 950-116-813-30 RS Clutch Guide Tube
1 931-102-111-00 RS Flywheel Pilot Bearing
9 928-102-151-01 Flywheel bolts
1 950-116-086-06 Improved Clutch Release Fork
1 950-116-237-12 Clutch Slave Cylinder
1 999-113-426-41 Flywheel Seal

TR6

I have the RS light weight flywheel and clutch in my RS America and have had it for about 4 years. If I could reverse the modification by waving a magic wand, I would do so. If and when this clutch finally wears out, I'm going back to the stock setup. Unfortunately, putting only 2K-3K miles a year on the car, and since I don't track it, I'll probably be dead before it ever wears out. I've been through three different Steve Wong chips to try to solve the idle problem. Mr. Wong worked with me to try to find a program that would help. None did. He even sent me a custom chip he programmed. I bought a brand new ISV. Didn't help. I suspect if you live in a cool climate, the stalling problem isn't as much of an issue. But if you live in Texas where it is 105 degrees this time of year, driving in any sort of normal traffic with A/C running full blast, oil cooler fan running, etc, it will stall coming up to a light. I can manage it about 80% of the time by "riding" the rpms down to below 1000 before pushing in the clutch. But it's never 100% successful. And inevitably you end up distracted and sometimes fail to do that. Or sitting at an idle at a light, the car starts the up and down RPM hunting.

Funny that people always seem concerned about the LWF chatter. To me, that's the least of the issues. Yes, you do hear the noise (and I have a louder than average exhaust with a cat bypass and muffler bypass). But the chatter doesn't bother me.

Does the LWF make the car rev more freely? Absolutely. Does it make it more fun for driving on the track, rev matching, etc? Most definitely. Is it worth it if, like me, you no longer take the car on the track and want to just drive it and enjoy it on the street or a weekend getaway with your wife? In my opinion, no.

Some people report that they have no stalling issues at all with the LWF. Maybe they have some secret that I haven't found. Someone mentioned in one thread something about bending a metal throttle stop. I may look into that. If anyone has done that successfully, please post here.

Don't get me wrong, it is definitely a performance modification. But with performance modifications there is always a compromise (like my stiff/lowered suspension). I love the way the car accelerates and revs freely when I want to open it up and scare the local livestock. I just wish I could drive it in city traffic in the heat of the summer without having to worry about trying to keep it from stalling at the stop lights.

Shamus964

I've read a few similar reports to yours Greg and it's good to remember that these cars can get finicky with mods like this. Most folks don't have the issue once a suitable chip is installed, but sometimes there are these cars that just remain recalcitrant and I can sympathize.

My car had some issues with idle hunt and stalling, and it was resolved once I brought the ignition system back up to par. New plug wires, coils, and a clean ISV and AFM become more important when the chip attempts to 'catch' the revs. I can dump my clutch at 2500 and have zero issues now.

That said, every car is different.