Broken RS Drop Link
#16
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks Guys,
I think it must have come loose and began moving around under tremendous loads on the track, and eventually popped off. I'm sure it was screwed on correctly as the threads towards the end look fine. In any case I will re install and ck it periodically for further issues. I agree that there is really no way to get a torque wrench on the upper nut anyway. That loop on the wheel carrier is too tight.
Many thanks for your input lads!
I think it must have come loose and began moving around under tremendous loads on the track, and eventually popped off. I'm sure it was screwed on correctly as the threads towards the end look fine. In any case I will re install and ck it periodically for further issues. I agree that there is really no way to get a torque wrench on the upper nut anyway. That loop on the wheel carrier is too tight.
Many thanks for your input lads!
#17
Nordschleife Master
Here are the locknuts as specified by PET:
My droplinks had normal M10 nylock nuts fitted on both ends (one shown in the pic above). They were good and tight and certainly haven't moved even though I've now done two track days with these in place. So it makes me agree with the others that have said properly torqued, quality nuts should be fine for use with the RS droplinks. I also agree that with just a floor jack, it's very difficult to get in there to torque the nuts properly. Even the one at the sway bar end. I could only fit my small torque wrench in there which goes up to 40 ftLb. So I first torqued it up with that and then used a normal wrench with my jack handle to tweek them up a bit more (so that they were close to the specificied 62 ftLb.
Seeing as I'd been out and bought the RS locknuts, I put them on:
My droplinks had normal M10 nylock nuts fitted on both ends (one shown in the pic above). They were good and tight and certainly haven't moved even though I've now done two track days with these in place. So it makes me agree with the others that have said properly torqued, quality nuts should be fine for use with the RS droplinks. I also agree that with just a floor jack, it's very difficult to get in there to torque the nuts properly. Even the one at the sway bar end. I could only fit my small torque wrench in there which goes up to 40 ftLb. So I first torqued it up with that and then used a normal wrench with my jack handle to tweek them up a bit more (so that they were close to the specificied 62 ftLb.
Seeing as I'd been out and bought the RS locknuts, I put them on:
#18
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the pics Steve. I received my nuts yesterday and reinstalled the drop link. I was able to get my large torque wrench in there (barely) and get my 63 Lbs on the bottom. The top was cranked by hand. The nuts have those blue flecks on them. Wonder what they are? Color coding maybe? At $5 a piece, this could get pricey if you have to change them out with new ones every time an adjustment is made, (mine is the 5 way adjustable RS sway bar.)
BTW, the blue nut was the one I had on the car initially, so I will monitor the front left closely for a while. The one on the right side was still tight with no signs of any issues.
BTW, the blue nut was the one I had on the car initially, so I will monitor the front left closely for a while. The one on the right side was still tight with no signs of any issues.
#19
Burning Brakes
Interesting... so, there is a difference in the locknut type. I'll go out and get the RS versions, for the sake of being proper... and after seeing what happened to Chris'.
Thanks for the follow up!
Thanks for the follow up!
#20
Nordschleife Master
Thanks for the pics Steve. I received my nuts yesterday and reinstalled the drop link. I was able to get my large torque wrench in there (barely) and get my 63 Lbs on the bottom. The top was cranked by hand. The nuts have those blue flecks on them. Wonder what they are? Color coding maybe? At $5 a piece, this could get pricey if you have to change them out with new ones every time an adjustment is made, (mine is the 5 way adjustable RS sway bar.)
BTW, the blue nut was the one I had on the car initially, so I will monitor the front left closely for a while. The one on the right side was still tight with no signs of any issues.
BTW, the blue nut was the one I had on the car initially, so I will monitor the front left closely for a while. The one on the right side was still tight with no signs of any issues.
No idea about the blue tinge though!