5w-50 Mobil 1 or 10w-60 Castrol ?
05-16-2011, 05:41 PM
#16
I know what you are trying to achieve. Your oil pump will not have any problem pumping a 60 hot viscosity index oil when hot.......it is thinner than cold oil on startup, even though the cold viscosity reads lower.
I don't know of any problem castrol 10W60 Edge (non-Sport) might have, as mentioned before it has a viscosity that matches hot operating temps, it has high enough ZDDP levels and it is suitable for prolonged use contrary to some pure racing oils and can be bought over the counter in most parts of the world.
I understand it must be confusing for you with all the different advise you´re getting. The ONLY downside a fresh out of the box W60 oil has compared to a W50 oil is that it absorbs slightly more power (2HP max) to drive the oil pump. The W60 gives higher oil pressure when warm, this is exactly what you are after.....the cold index of 10 is perfectly suited to cold start ups in warm climates as yours.
*edited to read Castrol Edge (non-Sport)
I don't know of any problem castrol 10W60 Edge (non-Sport) might have, as mentioned before it has a viscosity that matches hot operating temps, it has high enough ZDDP levels and it is suitable for prolonged use contrary to some pure racing oils and can be bought over the counter in most parts of the world.
I understand it must be confusing for you with all the different advise you´re getting. The ONLY downside a fresh out of the box W60 oil has compared to a W50 oil is that it absorbs slightly more power (2HP max) to drive the oil pump. The W60 gives higher oil pressure when warm, this is exactly what you are after.....the cold index of 10 is perfectly suited to cold start ups in warm climates as yours.
*edited to read Castrol Edge (non-Sport)
Last edited by evoderby; 05-17-2011 at 06:29 AM.
05-16-2011, 05:50 PM
#17
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Really thanks evoderby,
I will put 10w60, You know, that is a difficult thing but.. I think I will use that.
Another thing that I can't see clear, 5w50 Mobil 1, is as thick as 15w50 Mobil 1 at hot? It suppose yes because of the last number, but I read people who says that 20w50 is thicker at HOT than 15w50, so that is my guess..
I will put 10w60, You know, that is a difficult thing but.. I think I will use that.
Another thing that I can't see clear, 5w50 Mobil 1, is as thick as 15w50 Mobil 1 at hot? It suppose yes because of the last number, but I read people who says that 20w50 is thicker at HOT than 15w50, so that is my guess..
05-16-2011, 06:37 PM
#18
in a hot climate I would use 10W60 but as I live in Holland, 10W40 works perfectly as long as you don't do track days.
I once visited Kuwait (by plane not by 911 hehe) and temperature was over 50 degrees centigrade, and wondered what an air/oil cooled engine would do at such high temperatures.
I once visited Kuwait (by plane not by 911 hehe) and temperature was over 50 degrees centigrade, and wondered what an air/oil cooled engine would do at such high temperatures.
05-16-2011, 07:09 PM
#19
Racer
In Poland is Castrol TWS 10W60, and i heard from BP Employee that is better than Castrol Edge 10w60, but another Castrol employee sad; forget about it ... Egde is good enough for your car.
Evoderby has rightly said that in your country, the climate is warmer. So You can try 10w60. I was using Castrol Edge last summer (30-40 C), and i have no problem with engine temp and pressure. Engine works normal - cold or hot, no problem. Just try
Evoderby has rightly said that in your country, the climate is warmer. So You can try 10w60. I was using Castrol Edge last summer (30-40 C), and i have no problem with engine temp and pressure. Engine works normal - cold or hot, no problem. Just try
05-16-2011, 07:29 PM
#20
Rennlist Member
I use Brad Penn 20W-50, last summer I drove the car in 38C temps with no problem at all, idle pressure just under 2 with oil temp just under 9; it would only go that high when driving in slow traffic, i.e. city; out on the road, the temp would be back down to 8 or less.
My guess is you have another problem.
My guess is you have another problem.
05-16-2011, 07:32 PM
#22
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If you can find a 20W-50, I think your warning light problem will be solved. I believe there is no need for a 5W or 10W oil in our old cars. Gaps in wear areas are larger from the wear, so you don't need to pump thin oil into tight places when it's "cold" on startup, especially in the Islands. And even though the last number relates to hot viscosity, I think you'll find a really low first number will make the light come on. Try it and see.
I don't think they even made a 5W for general consumption when our cars were made. I don't remember seeing it on the shelf. I think it became necessary with our modern tight-tolerance engines(or vice versa /chicken and egg - the thinner oil allowed carmakers to make engines with tighter tolerances).
You should probably be more concerned with Zinc content if you're planning to keep the car long term. My understanding is that synthetics like Mobil 1 don't have the Zinc needed to protect the solid lifters, etc. I use Valoline Racing VR1, which has a high Zinc content. But most of the enthusiasts here who act the most knowledgeable swear by Brad Penn. I trust Valvoline because I've used it for 40 years and whenever I've torn engines down the insides are clean as a whistle.
I don't think they even made a 5W for general consumption when our cars were made. I don't remember seeing it on the shelf. I think it became necessary with our modern tight-tolerance engines(or vice versa /chicken and egg - the thinner oil allowed carmakers to make engines with tighter tolerances).
You should probably be more concerned with Zinc content if you're planning to keep the car long term. My understanding is that synthetics like Mobil 1 don't have the Zinc needed to protect the solid lifters, etc. I use Valoline Racing VR1, which has a high Zinc content. But most of the enthusiasts here who act the most knowledgeable swear by Brad Penn. I trust Valvoline because I've used it for 40 years and whenever I've torn engines down the insides are clean as a whistle.
05-17-2011, 03:51 AM
#23
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My mechanic said me not to use 20w50, because is mineral, What i'm looking is another alternative to 20w50, that could be, 10w60 or 15w50. But I want to be sure after changing the oil.
These days I was searching people with problems like mine and I found a lot's of them who solve it with 15w50 or 20w50, but what I want is to be sure.
These days I was searching people with problems like mine and I found a lot's of them who solve it with 15w50 or 20w50, but what I want is to be sure.
05-17-2011, 06:26 AM
#24
In Poland is Castrol TWS 10W60, and i heard from BP Employee that is better than Castrol Edge 10w60, but another Castrol employee sad; forget about it ... Egde is good enough for your car.
Evoderby has rightly said that in your country, the climate is warmer. So You can try 10w60. I was using Castrol Edge last summer (30-40 C), and i have no problem with engine temp and pressure. Engine works normal - cold or hot, no problem. Just try
Evoderby has rightly said that in your country, the climate is warmer. So You can try 10w60. I was using Castrol Edge last summer (30-40 C), and i have no problem with engine temp and pressure. Engine works normal - cold or hot, no problem. Just try
If you can still find TWS this is fine as well.
Please note that Castrol Edge SPORT 10W60 is a different oil, still good but not as good as the Edge 10W60.
05-17-2011, 06:47 AM
#25
Racer
I was using Castrol Edge Sport 10w60 sorry, my mental leap.
It was problem to buy TWS in 4 litres tank, you can only buy 1 litre or 60 litres barrel. 1 litre bottle was very expensive i am not exactly remember, but very. 60 litres barrel was to much.
So for my climate Mobil1 works better, that is all.
Mc. Queen maybe there is something wrong with Yours oil pressure sensor or connection. I have opposite problem, because my gauge shows more than maximum oil pressure. And wire was the problem.
It was problem to buy TWS in 4 litres tank, you can only buy 1 litre or 60 litres barrel. 1 litre bottle was very expensive i am not exactly remember, but very. 60 litres barrel was to much.
So for my climate Mobil1 works better, that is all.
Mc. Queen maybe there is something wrong with Yours oil pressure sensor or connection. I have opposite problem, because my gauge shows more than maximum oil pressure. And wire was the problem.
05-17-2011, 08:50 AM
#26
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If you can find a 20W-50, I think your warning light problem will be solved. I believe there is no need for a 5W or 10W oil in our old cars. Gaps in wear areas are larger from the wear, so you don't need to pump thin oil into tight places when it's "cold" on startup, especially in the Islands. And even though the last number relates to hot viscosity, I think you'll find a really low first number will make the light come on. Try it and see.
I don't think they even made a 5W for general consumption when our cars were made. I don't remember seeing it on the shelf. I think it became necessary with our modern tight-tolerance engines(or vice versa /chicken and egg - the thinner oil allowed carmakers to make engines with tighter tolerances).
You should probably be more concerned with Zinc content if you're planning to keep the car long term. My understanding is that synthetics like Mobil 1 don't have the Zinc needed to protect the solid lifters, etc. I use Valoline Racing VR1, which has a high Zinc content. But most of the enthusiasts here who act the most knowledgeable swear by Brad Penn. I trust Valvoline because I've used it for 40 years and whenever I've torn engines down the insides are clean as a whistle.
I don't think they even made a 5W for general consumption when our cars were made. I don't remember seeing it on the shelf. I think it became necessary with our modern tight-tolerance engines(or vice versa /chicken and egg - the thinner oil allowed carmakers to make engines with tighter tolerances).
You should probably be more concerned with Zinc content if you're planning to keep the car long term. My understanding is that synthetics like Mobil 1 don't have the Zinc needed to protect the solid lifters, etc. I use Valoline Racing VR1, which has a high Zinc content. But most of the enthusiasts here who act the most knowledgeable swear by Brad Penn. I trust Valvoline because I've used it for 40 years and whenever I've torn engines down the insides are clean as a whistle.
So you think that 10w60 won't solve me the problem? 15w50 gets more oil pressure at hot than 10w60? It should be different, because w60 is higher.. so..
05-17-2011, 10:31 AM
#27
Oil is like religion, people tend to stick to their beliefs in fullest confiction inspite of insights provided by scientific data ;-)
A 15W50 won't increase oil pressure over a 10W60. Whether the difference is significant depends on how much the oils differ on the 50 vs. 60 viscosity scale to begin with. Higher end 50's = practicallly the same as lower end 60's. Your questioning now comes to a point where you should start looking at different oil data sheets to compare their respective viscosities @ 100degrees celsius.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/visc.html
Having said so viscosities claimed apply to new oils and say nothing about shear stability or longevity (i.e. how much use can an oil be put through before it starts degrading and losing its viscosity). In the old days non synthetic oils required a lot of additives to reach multigrade status with relatively low viscosity indexes (difference between lowest and highest viscosities). These additives did little for lubrication and lowered the oils shear stability thus needing frequent oil changes. 20W50 mineral oils are a good example of this.
Fully synthetic oils allow a much greater viscosity index (10W60 - 5W50 etc.) AND provide high levels of shear stability. Is a 20W50 full synth oil bad? No not necessarily, a 10W60 just has a bigger footprint when it comes to applications where it potentially fits and/or is required.
As I and others have said before viscosity is one part of the game, shear stability and ZDDP levels are important factors as well....
This is the last message I will post in this thread.....good luck making your choice!
A 15W50 won't increase oil pressure over a 10W60. Whether the difference is significant depends on how much the oils differ on the 50 vs. 60 viscosity scale to begin with. Higher end 50's = practicallly the same as lower end 60's. Your questioning now comes to a point where you should start looking at different oil data sheets to compare their respective viscosities @ 100degrees celsius.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/visc.html
Having said so viscosities claimed apply to new oils and say nothing about shear stability or longevity (i.e. how much use can an oil be put through before it starts degrading and losing its viscosity). In the old days non synthetic oils required a lot of additives to reach multigrade status with relatively low viscosity indexes (difference between lowest and highest viscosities). These additives did little for lubrication and lowered the oils shear stability thus needing frequent oil changes. 20W50 mineral oils are a good example of this.
Fully synthetic oils allow a much greater viscosity index (10W60 - 5W50 etc.) AND provide high levels of shear stability. Is a 20W50 full synth oil bad? No not necessarily, a 10W60 just has a bigger footprint when it comes to applications where it potentially fits and/or is required.
As I and others have said before viscosity is one part of the game, shear stability and ZDDP levels are important factors as well....
This is the last message I will post in this thread.....good luck making your choice!
05-17-2011, 10:35 AM
#28
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I was using Castrol Edge Sport 10w60 sorry, my mental leap.
It was problem to buy TWS in 4 litres tank, you can only buy 1 litre or 60 litres barrel. 1 litre bottle was very expensive i am not exactly remember, but very. 60 litres barrel was to much.
So for my climate Mobil1 works better, that is all.
Mc. Queen maybe there is something wrong with Yours oil pressure sensor or connection. I have opposite problem, because my gauge shows more than maximum oil pressure. And wire was the problem.
It was problem to buy TWS in 4 litres tank, you can only buy 1 litre or 60 litres barrel. 1 litre bottle was very expensive i am not exactly remember, but very. 60 litres barrel was to much.
So for my climate Mobil1 works better, that is all.
Mc. Queen maybe there is something wrong with Yours oil pressure sensor or connection. I have opposite problem, because my gauge shows more than maximum oil pressure. And wire was the problem.
Regards, I will change oil after doing that. My mechanic said me not to use 20w60, but he think that 15w50 or 10w60 will be ok
05-17-2011, 10:37 AM
#29
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Oil is like religion, people tend to stick to their beliefs in fullest confiction inspite of insights provided by scientific data ;-)
A 15W50 won't increase oil pressure over a 10W60. Whether the difference is significant depends on how much the oils differ on the 50 vs. 60 viscosity scale to begin with. Higher end 50's = practicallly the same as lower end 60's. Your questioning now comes to a point where you should start looking at different oil data sheets to compare their respective viscosities @ 100degrees celsius.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/visc.html
Having said so viscosities claimed apply to new oils and say nothing about shear stability or longevity (i.e. how much use can an oil be put through before it starts degrading and losing its viscosity). In the old days non synthetic oils required a lot of additives to reach multigrade status with relatively low viscosity indexes (difference between lowest and highest viscosities). These additives did little for lubrication and lowered the oils shear stability thus needing frequent oil changes. 20W50 mineral oils are a good example of this.
Fully synthetic oils allow a much greater viscosity index (10W60 - 5W50 etc.) AND provide high levels of shear stability. Is a 20W50 full synth oil bad? No not necessarily, a 10W60 just has a bigger footprint when it comes to applications where it potentially fits.
As I and others have said before viscosity is one part of the game, shear stability and ZDDP levels are important factors as well....
This is the last message I will post in this thread.....good luck making your choice!
A 15W50 won't increase oil pressure over a 10W60. Whether the difference is significant depends on how much the oils differ on the 50 vs. 60 viscosity scale to begin with. Higher end 50's = practicallly the same as lower end 60's. Your questioning now comes to a point where you should start looking at different oil data sheets to compare their respective viscosities @ 100degrees celsius.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/visc.html
Having said so viscosities claimed apply to new oils and say nothing about shear stability or longevity (i.e. how much use can an oil be put through before it starts degrading and losing its viscosity). In the old days non synthetic oils required a lot of additives to reach multigrade status with relatively low viscosity indexes (difference between lowest and highest viscosities). These additives did little for lubrication and lowered the oils shear stability thus needing frequent oil changes. 20W50 mineral oils are a good example of this.
Fully synthetic oils allow a much greater viscosity index (10W60 - 5W50 etc.) AND provide high levels of shear stability. Is a 20W50 full synth oil bad? No not necessarily, a 10W60 just has a bigger footprint when it comes to applications where it potentially fits.
As I and others have said before viscosity is one part of the game, shear stability and ZDDP levels are important factors as well....
This is the last message I will post in this thread.....good luck making your choice!
Really thanks for all, I will put 10w60 EDGE.
05-17-2011, 11:14 AM
#30
Racer
Investment in 12L of oil is not so high, so you can pour Castrol Edge Sport 10w60 and see how it will be exercised. Castrol is a good oil, so it wont hurt your flat six.