theGekko

Hello, All!
Continuing the adventure to 964 ownership. I am trying to schedule a PPI and they have two levels available. the first one is $100 and includes all things on the attachment. The next step includes a Leakdown/Compression test. It is $225. I don't mind the added costs, but is it recommended on a car that has 60k on it?
J

SAM DACOSTA

The purpose of a PPI is to identify any potential problems prior to ownership. For an extra $125, you will have current data on leak down and compression values. Priceless, when you take into account the cost of rebuilding a 964 motor. If $$$ is not the issue, then I recommend the full PPI.

SuperUser

I paid around this for my PPI, it is money well spent.

Frank 993 C4S

Do the full PPI.

parsecnc4

+1

misterbeverlyhills

Get a full PPI, always good even if it is only for you to watch for any upcoming issues. I will say though that the accepted levels for a leakdown are a little subject to interpretation. During my PPI it was discovered that one cylinder was lower than the norm and it worried me. The mechanic, a well known weekend racer of 964s told me it meant nothing and if I did not pounce on a Cobalt Blue over blue 92 and loaded he would for the same money. He said his 993 (with 60,000 on the clock) was 20 lbs or % or whatever low and has purred like a kitten since he bought it.

Since then I have tracked the car, driven it 4 days a week, gotten groceries and burned up the canyons. The car is a dream and shows no sign of slowing down at close to 150,000 miles. I did have a subsequent leakdown done and no sign of a low cylinder so go figure.

campoj2

A leak down gives you the real deal on the motor. Make sure you keep "your" data to yourself if you don't buy the car. If the owner wants that data make him split the cost of the PPI.

Laker

agree with everyone above.... but if the car is a mess, have the PPI mechanic let you know before he starts the leak down to enable you to just walk away.

batty

what laker said. if you're on good terms with your mechanic he should give you the POS heads up before you get to the leakdown and save you some bucks to put toward your next PPI.

theGekko

Thanks, all! That's what I thought. I just wanted some conformation!


BTW.. Here's the attachment!

Brandon-FL

+1 on the full PPI. $225 should end up being about 1% of the purchase price of a decent example. As you look at cars, remember that the purchase price is just a beginning and you are going to need to budget for ongoing maintenance, modifications, etc. PPI will give you a good idea of what needs to be addressed immediately and what maintenance/replacements will be on the horizon.

Good luck with the inspection and let us know your experience with Eurowerks.

SuperUser

Eurowerks did my PPI and I was OK with it. I did find a few things that did not show up on the PPI but nothing major.

• fuse 11 kept blowing so the clock and inside lights did not work. (This ended up being from bad V1 hardwire)
• motor mounts where shot
• gas cap seal was bad
• a few more dings than the report had (nothing DentWizzard can't fix)
• front speakers not working (amp was unhooked from the battery)
• tech thought there was something loose with the exhaust (this was just the heater flaps clanking when you close the door)

I am sure as I dig into the car more I will find a few more little things, it is 20 years old

Laker

There are some 964 specific areas to be concerned about, which are not on the PDF.

1) 3 - Resistors A/C Cooler, Oil Cooler, Rear Blower tube... all should have been upgraded with new part.
2) Sway bar drop arms The boots are often shot and can only be seen with front wheels removed and looking down from above. (can't see them on the lift when looking up)
3) Distributor Vent Kit and condition of Distributor Belt
4) Fuel leaks/smell from Gas cap seal, and fuel filler neck (and a few other places)
If the tank is full and you don't smell any gas in the frunk, you are OK
If the fuel tank is < 1/2 full, there may be a reason for that. (+1 SuperUser)

Updated:
Ignore this one:
5) Listen for DMF going bad (rattle upon shutoff when in neutral, no rattle with clutch pushed in)
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...turned-of.html

911Jetta

there might be a couple good tips from the 964 DIY section:
PPI Checklist

theGekko

Laker
Thanks, again for your info. My PPI is Friday and I paid for the leakdown/compression tests to be done. I will email Jack and ask him to look at these things also. I did see that the dist vent had been done. I asked him to see if the DMF had been updated and to look for rust due to the time spent in MN, OH, and PA before landing in the "warm" south!
I am keeping my fingers crossed!