Maybe it j just my 02 sensor or wiring, i m hoping not to dismantle the engine again....

 

If it was a too loosely adjusted valve, wouldn't it be worse when the engine was cold, and get better as the engine warmed? You could try a stethoscope to try and pinpoint the sound.

 

I know my well adjusted valves (just did a vale adjustment which took me 5 hours making sure it was right) clack pretty good when it is 20 degrees in the garage. After about 5 minutes of warm up the sound is down to the normal light clacking (and I mean barely audible) of the valves. Remember - there is only a very thin sheet of valve cover between the air and the valves - you will hear them a little bit.

Now I just have to solve my hunting idle issue - starting with the DME relay and next stop - new ISV (there goes the budget for the first few months of the year =-(

 

any other thoughts?

 

Just made another valve adjustment, at another shop. Noise is still present, maybe even more audible. It disappears into a sort of grumming noise when fully warmed, at about 9 o clock

 

Isn't 1 bar oilpressure at idle almost too low?

 

Maybe, but noise is present even when it is over 1 bar

 

Can you put a piece of tube up to your ear and put the other end on each individual head whilest the car is running to see if you can hear is a difference between them?

If you narrow it down to which head then you may be a step closer to finding the problem.

 

Sounds like a valve adjustment issue to me, as well.

That spitting and balkiness when you hit the accelerator is of much more concern ... I wonder whether you have an air leak somewhere.

.. Gregg

 

i changed the air flow meter and now no more missfire. however it seems a little low on power... Noise is still present

 

Did your valve clearances change with the frequent readjustments? If you catch a valve sticking or so badly bent that the spring won't close it, you'll get some unusual measurements when readjusting or checking valve clearances. I couldn't access the video, but the spitting and coughing description did sound like an air leak. I had one once when I didn't get a manifold/tube boot on right. But if it's now running smoothly with the intake changes, it's not an air leak.

Has to be a sticking/bent valve making the ticking sound if the valves are adjusted properly. Was the one lifter you had to adjust in the beginning loose. That might indicate a bent valve that is not closing completely, this the slack in the valve-to-rocker clearance. Also would be down on power due to this.

Sorry to be negative thinking.

 

Hello!
The adjustment went pretty easy, the mechanic said that ALL valves were a little too tight... However after the adjustment the time in which the noise appears is a little shorter than before...
If i had a sticking or bent valve, do i need to dissasemble the engine from the car, or it can be done in the car and dismantling only the camshafts. It is on the right side, so the power steering pump needs to be dismantled?