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Did mine in about 40 mins just removed the right rear wheel and right heater hose. C4 didn't need to drop the engine just had to twist the starter round to get it out of the hole.
The torque spec I posted for the half shaft bolts in post # 4 are incorrect, is should be 32 lbs/ft instead of 60 lbs/ft.
I got those numbers from another book, but have since learned the correct number from our trusted member Steve Weiner.
I'll add my experience to this on a C4. I followed the workshop manual which tells you to remove the top nut on the starter from the left side after you have undone the half shaft and removed the clutch slave cylinder. I found i couldn't get a 10mm hex bit of any kind into the nut from the right side but I could actually feel the nut itself reaching over the top of the gearbox from the left side. It makes the job a bit longer but at least it worked for me. It took a fair amount of shuffling to get the old motor out past the hydraulic lines and the new one back in. I didn't need to lower my engine for this.
Just wrapped up this job this morning. It took about 2 hours from start to finish, including some curse words for that top hex nut. I used a wobble socket extension to my 10mm hex socket, and it worked out pretty well. I had trouble trying to orient and get the angle just right with the universal joint.
Appreciate all of the input and guidance from this, and other, threads on RL about the topic. It's a pretty easy DIY. On my 1990 C2, there's no way I could do it without removing the engine pan bracket, unbolting the half shaft and removing the heater tubing. I didn't have to drop the motor, but be mindful of 30+ year old brittle plastic parts/retainer clips. The original starter lasted 30+ years and almost 140k miles, and I'm hoping this new one will last, too. The superceding part is definitely shorter and easier to maneuver in that tight space. Don't forget to check your grounds!
11-17-2013, 06:41 AM
