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964 Starter replacement 1st attempt

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Old Nov 17, 2013 | 06:41 AM
  #16  
Harry Apps's Avatar
Harry Apps
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From: Norfolk, UK
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Originally Posted by Lemass Automotive
Did mine in about 40 mins just removed the right rear wheel and right heater hose. C4 didn't need to drop the engine just had to twist the starter round to get it out of the hole.
That's very nice to know!

TVM
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Old Nov 17, 2013 | 09:56 AM
  #17  
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crg53
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From: Vancouver Island, BC , Canada
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The torque spec I posted for the half shaft bolts in post # 4 are incorrect, is should be 32 lbs/ft instead of 60 lbs/ft.
I got those numbers from another book, but have since learned the correct number from our trusted member Steve Weiner.

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Old Oct 14, 2016 | 12:43 AM
  #18  
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Michael D'Silva
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curious
did you re grease the end of the shaft, where it locates in the trans case?
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Old Feb 16, 2019 | 05:20 PM
  #19  
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ffc
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I'll add my experience to this on a C4. I followed the workshop manual which tells you to remove the top nut on the starter from the left side after you have undone the half shaft and removed the clutch slave cylinder. I found i couldn't get a 10mm hex bit of any kind into the nut from the right side but I could actually feel the nut itself reaching over the top of the gearbox from the left side. It makes the job a bit longer but at least it worked for me. It took a fair amount of shuffling to get the old motor out past the hydraulic lines and the new one back in. I didn't need to lower my engine for this.

I found the DIY here very useful as well http://web.archive.org/web/200811122...sche964.co.uk/.

My symptoms were a click rather than a start on 8 of 10 key turns. This had gradually worsened over time.

UK roads aren't kind to exposed metal!


Last edited by ffc; Feb 16, 2019 at 05:41 PM.
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Old Mar 20, 2023 | 06:57 PM
  #20  
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jon91581
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Just wrapped up this job this morning. It took about 2 hours from start to finish, including some curse words for that top hex nut. I used a wobble socket extension to my 10mm hex socket, and it worked out pretty well. I had trouble trying to orient and get the angle just right with the universal joint.

Appreciate all of the input and guidance from this, and other, threads on RL about the topic. It's a pretty easy DIY. On my 1990 C2, there's no way I could do it without removing the engine pan bracket, unbolting the half shaft and removing the heater tubing. I didn't have to drop the motor, but be mindful of 30+ year old brittle plastic parts/retainer clips. The original starter lasted 30+ years and almost 140k miles, and I'm hoping this new one will last, too. The superceding part is definitely shorter and easier to maneuver in that tight space. Don't forget to check your grounds!
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Old Sep 24, 2024 | 08:13 AM
  #21  
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From: Noord Holland
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I'm at the boxing back up stage of this at the moment, just taking a break for lunch. C4, and not the original starter motor. As has already been said, it's not complicated, but it is frustrating. FWIW, I removed the heater tubing and unbolted the driveshaft at the gearbox end and moved it as needed. The top nut was undone entirely by feel, and was an absolute bastard to crack. I stopped for a rest as I was close to dropping the entire engine and calling it a year. The hardest part was getting the 10mm allen bit to stay in the nut and the extension and ratchet to stay in place while I changed positions. I kept reading that the slave cylinder should be removed, but I genuinely cannot see how that would have made it easier.
When it eventually came loose, I managed to get the starter out through the wheelarch, and the new one went in the same way. In both directions it absolutely wasn't going to come out, until it absolutely did. Still don't know how.
Anyway. I started Sunday night and have been on and off since. I can see how both 90 minutes or nine hours could be achievable! I think I'm up to three hours on it, will be four by the time it's all back together and on the ground.
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