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Paintjob!!!!!!!! Tech Info and Advice Please

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Old 12-23-2010, 09:41 AM
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altarchsa
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Chromed D90's. Racers may look down their noses, but I love em. (Until Santa brings those old style RUF's, that is, and that ain't happening.)

The chrome looks great on white because it usually reflects dark pavement and almost goes black for a nice contrast.
Old 12-23-2010, 09:42 AM
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Nader Fotouhi
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I am interested in this thread from the perspective of re-sell value of a resprayed car. I see a lot of WTB saying original paint, so does respraying the whole car detract from value? To me if the paint job is first rate in original color and was not done because of body damage, then no issues. BUT, I wonder what the collectives' feedback is to someone looking to buy who asks about two similar condition cars and one was resprayed?
Old 12-23-2010, 09:48 AM
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altarchsa
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Originally Posted by Nader Fotouhi
I am interested in this thread from the perspective of re-sell value of a resprayed car. I see a lot of WTB saying original paint, so does respraying the whole car detract from value? To me if the paint job is first rate in original color and was not done because of body damage, then no issues. BUT, I wonder what the collectives' feedback is to someone looking to buy who asks about two similar condition cars and one was resprayed?
A totally slick car has to sell better than a dinged one! ?
Old 12-23-2010, 12:08 PM
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mrmandmman
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As long as it is a good quality paint job and it is documented I would pay more for the repainted car versus a 20 year old dinged up paint job.
Old 12-23-2010, 10:05 PM
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altarchsa
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Just to confirm, single stage is the one step process, as opposed to base/clearcoat? I think single stage could be epoxy or urathane last time I painted one myself, which,granted, was a LONG time ago.
Old 12-24-2010, 06:19 PM
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darth
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I'd clear coat it as it adds more protection and I think the laquer single stage paint would be difficult to source. The advanced 2 stage techniques were used after 1990 I believe. As far as color match that's what paint codes are for. If you want to do a complete job remove the engine (i.e. to spray the engine compartment), wiring (i.e. or at least take out the body thru grommets and mask) along with under body panels.

Last edited by darth; 12-24-2010 at 07:41 PM.
Old 12-26-2010, 02:29 AM
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altarchsa
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Originally Posted by darth
I'd clear coat it as it adds more protection and I think the laquer single stage paint would be difficult to source. The advanced 2 stage techniques were used after 1990 I believe. As far as color match that's what paint codes are for. If you want to do a complete job remove the engine (i.e. to spray the engine compartment), wiring (i.e. or at least take out the body thru grommets and mask) along with under body panels.
I wouldn't use lacquer. The shop that did the front of my 75 911S used lacquer without my approval and it had more chips within 6 mos than it had from the previous 11 year's before they painted it. That's why I completely stripped it down and repainted it myself with Glasurit enamel.

I just want original quality or better on the respray. My impression of basecoat/clearcoat is that it will not yield a similar texture (it results in the "wet look" I mentioned) and is not as durable. Maybe I'm thinking of some of the earlier quality products that pealed.

I'm not too worried about matching they GP White since I'll be doing the entire car.

Still not clear on best quality paint brand and system type with my concerns.
Old 12-26-2010, 02:31 AM
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altarchsa
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P.S. I've started a parts list for a windows out / bolted parts off job. Anyone done this and kept a list I could use?
Old 12-26-2010, 01:31 PM
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deleonl1
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Keep us up to date with pictures!
Old 12-26-2010, 02:52 PM
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altarchsa
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Originally Posted by deleonl1
Keep us up to date with pictures!
Will do. It may be a couple of months before I really get into it. I'll have to gather all the seals first.



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