Indycam

That would be a maybe .
A failed regulator such that the alternator is never putting out will not over charge the battery , but it can let the battery be drained below a level that is harmful .
A failed regulator that overcharges a battery will cause problems to the battery .

The removal of the cable might make replacement of the alternator a better choice , but replacement of the voltage regulator is quicker / easier / cheaper .
If the replacement voltage regulator works , you will have saved yourself some work and dollars . If it does not do the trick you will be out some money and labor .


It was not a link to restate that disconnecting the battery was dangerous ,
it was a link to show the steps to diode damage .

A "broken alternator" could be putting out enough electrons to keep some things running but not others .

SilvA4Q

I was able to take it to a local auto shop today to get the alternator tested (at the battery) and the results were somewhat surprising. The test showed that the alternator diodes were good, the regulator was bad and that the charge was too low for charging the battery.

Taking your suggestion, where should I get the regulator from? Pelican is about $100 whereas other retailers are showing it for ~$25. Any recommendations? Since the alternator will be out In replacing the regulator I'll take it in to be bench tested and see if that should be replaced also. Decent approach to trouble shooting this next step?

Indycam

Its a 20ish dollar part .

Getting the alternator / fan assembly tested off the car is interesting/difficult .
I would suggest you put the new voltage regulator on the alternator
and then put the alternator / fan assembly back on the engine .
And then test to see if the "whole" is happy .

SilvA4Q

well I think that will be the next step. Is there a reason to buy a Bosch voltage regulator ($50) over a Kaehler voltage regulator ($25)? Those are the only two brands I can find to purchase. I would think that the original equipment would be Bosch and maybe there is a slight preference to Bosch because of that reason.

The rest of the trouble shooting will have to wait until the parts come in and I finish with my law school finals.....assuming I am still alive after them. Hopefully then I'll have time to pull the alternator and replace the VR and reinstall the alternator. There isnt a way to replace the regulator with the alternator still installed?

Indycam

None .
On the upside , taking of the alternator is not that big of a job .
Looking at it , it might seam to be a big deal/job .

SilvA4Q

Yes it definitely seems like a daunting task. Are there any special tools needed for the voltage regulator replacement? I shouldnt need the triple square (12 point) piece for the regulator right?

What about the choice between getting a bosch or kaehler? Worth double the price for getting bosch instead?

mojorizing

You'll need the triple square bit to get the belts off which need to come off to remove the alternator. Then you'll have access to the front of the alternator where the VR resides. Consider replacing the complete alternator - the time and effort spent getting it out and back in untested is one thing. Buying a complete alternator that's been tested, has fresh bearings is worth the extra peace of mind.

If time is a constraint right now and you need the car, you can drive it approx. 80 miles without lights on with a fully charged battery and a non-functioning battery. But don't sue me if you only make it to 79 miles... good luck on your law exams!

Here's the DIY w/ pics of VR

http://www.pcarworkshop.com/index.ph...or_Replacement

Don't for get to disconnect the battery before starting this job!!

Indycam

The effort / time needed to get the fan off makes the regulator replacement a good option .


http://translate.google.com/translat...GLL_en___US373
It looks like the Kaehler might be ok . Made in Germany .

SilvA4Q

Well it looks like I need to get a triple square bit, any help with locating one? Thanks for all of the help and tips. That DIY is definitely important to have and will come in very handy when I get a chance to do the replacement.

Thanks a lot!! I'll definitely need the luck to make it through these. Just one more semester.....

It looks like a good option and since it much easier to find I'll go this route and see how things play out...

Indycam

Do you have the factory tool kit ?
If you have the tool kit , the tool should be in the kit .

This is what the tool looks like .
http://www.eagleday.com/fanbepunutto.html

SilvA4Q

For some reason it didn't even cross my mind that the tool would be in the factory supplied kit. I still have all of the tools from the original purchase so it must be there. Again thanks for the invaluable information, I'll be ordering the voltage regulator along with some new engine lid struts tomorrow. Hopefully I can get some free time to do the replacement before too long.

Indycam

My car came without a took kit , I bought a tool kit off of ebay and it did not come with all the tools .

SilvA4Q

of course when i finally have time to work on the charging system I come to find out that the previous owner/mechanic has completely stripped out the shaft where the twelve point tool is supposed to go into. I have the tool, M10 twelve pointer, but the hole has been stripped. I am assuming they tried using a torx or allen set on it instead of the correct porsche tool. What do you think my next step should be? Try using a different tool to hold it in place or take it to a shop to be taken care of by them?

At least I have other things to deal with like finding out why the vents are always blowing air through even with the ccu off and trying to remove all of the wiring from the prehistoric cell phone system installed originally.

Indycam

If you epoxy the tool into the hole , you might be able to get the pulley off and the fan off .
Another way might be to use a little shim stock inbetween the tool and the hole .

SilvA4Q

i think i am going to try the epoxy approach but because the hole is so stripped and ruined I can only get a very small amount of the tool into the hole. I am not sure how much that is going to help, I did find out that an allen bit fits almost perfectly in the hole, that must be the tool used to get it off last time and the one that ruined the shaft.