sml

Having owned the 964 for 1 mth, I am starting to think about the first oil change.

To save the hassle of draining from the engine drain plug (and presumably having to jack-up the car) could I simply drain from the oil tank and skip the engine drain but then change the oil twice as frequently? ie ...

a) drain from the oil tank only near the rear right wheel
b) change the filter
c) refill oil
d) repeat every 3000 miles or so

Ryan360

draining from the engine side isn't any more complicated. You just need to get a low profile waste oil container that will fit under without jacking-up the car. Refilling is probably the most complicated due to overfilling. Good luck.

sml

Guess I should take a closer look this week! .... I was expecting that the engine drain bolt would be out of reach without jacking the car but can I just squeeze/reach under?

Ryan360

Depends if your car is lowered. if not you probably can reach. Give it a try. It just makes it easier to lift the car up a few inches for more room. When I did my first oil change, I measured how much oil drained out. This gave me the approximate amount of clean oil to put back in. I drained 10 qts, so I put back 10 qts of synthetic oil; but I had to add 1 more qt. because my oil level gauge would not register the oil quantity. For a while I thought my gauge or oil level sender was busted because it stayed on the red even after engine was at normal operating temperature. Afterwards I found out from a buddy that all I had to do was add a bit more oil for the gauge to register the oil quantity.

crg53

My advice is to do it the proper way, oil is cheap, your Porsche engine deserves the best, so do not scimp on oil changes. Removing the plug from the engine case will also give you a change to see if you have any "engine matter" on the magnetic plug. Rebuilds are mega $$$$.

Indycam

When you do an oil change , you drain 10/12 of the oil , two out of the 12 stay in the cooling circuit .
So if you don't pull the case drain plug and there is 1 in the case you would be doing 9/12 . If there are 2 in the case , 8/12 ...
I change the oil in my pops mustang without jacking it up .
I use all my extensions and undo the plug from the pan while laying alongside .

If your car is set "up" way low , drive it up on a few boards to get you a little work space , pull that plug , I can't imagine not draining everything possible .
In case you have not already read , you need a big drain pan , 10 quarts is more than a small pan can handle . Get a drain pan that can hold 12 .

elbeee964

Steen's right.
I took off that engine case oil plug yesterday. My car is somewhat 'lowered'. The plug is quite accessible without jacking the car.
I emptied my oil (both tank & crankcase) with all four wheels on the ground, no jack.

Something I think some forget to ask: Is his engine's under tray still in place?
Now, that'll block quick access.

sml

My engine under-tray panel(s) are gone .. so that helps

Sounds like I will be able to access the plug without jacking which is great news but driving on a few boards will be safe & easy so I'll see how I go.

After worrying for the first few weeks, I am now calibrated with the re-filling process & sensitivity of the oil level guage

Thanks guys .. shouldn't be too difficult afterall

jimq

be sure you take out the oil drain and not the pressure valve with the spring in it. They are both under there near each other!

Ryan360

probably one of the easiest DIY and a big money saver- approx $250 if you let the p-car shop do it.

raspberryroadster

seems high, my indy (only does aircoolers) last service:
-oil service, ck plugs, ck distributor -replace 2 caps/rotors: $152
-10L. 20w50 penn: 59
-oil filter 19

normal oil service less than $175 (all in oil & filter)