clutch problems
#1
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Hey there,
The pcar has developed an issue with the clutch/gear changes.
I've searched the site and found kinda similar issues discussed previously, suggesting it may be a problem with the clutch slave cylinder. Is this the right area to be looking at, or is it something else? Cheers for any input.
The pcar has developed an issue with the clutch/gear changes.
- Difficult to change into reverse, 1st and 2nd - have to push down very very hard to get these gears to engage.
- The clutch bite is now very low to the floor.
- The clutch pedal at rest is about 1/2 as close to the floor as the brake - when I pull it up it just falls down again.
I've searched the site and found kinda similar issues discussed previously, suggesting it may be a problem with the clutch slave cylinder. Is this the right area to be looking at, or is it something else? Cheers for any input.
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Thanks guys - it was indeed the roll pin, clutch now sweet.
While it was at the mechanic, also took the chance to install new front right wheel bearing. Driving back from the garage today I noticed the car has a slight drift to the left - presumably this replacement can knock the wheel alignment? I have a trackday this weekend but haven't got the time to redo the alignment - will go as is.
While it was at the mechanic, also took the chance to install new front right wheel bearing. Driving back from the garage today I noticed the car has a slight drift to the left - presumably this replacement can knock the wheel alignment? I have a trackday this weekend but haven't got the time to redo the alignment - will go as is.
#5
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Hi - just stumbled across this thread - good to see you solved it Andrew.
My gear engagement was iffy, especially 1st after a warm up. Solved with new engine mounts (used cheaper 993 mounts).
However, I also have play at the top of the pedal. replaced roll pin to no effect.
Pumped pedal after Makmov's suggestion, and has helped reduce the top of travel play.
Does this point to a slave cylinder problem??
Thanks, Gareth.
My gear engagement was iffy, especially 1st after a warm up. Solved with new engine mounts (used cheaper 993 mounts).
However, I also have play at the top of the pedal. replaced roll pin to no effect.
Pumped pedal after Makmov's suggestion, and has helped reduce the top of travel play.
Does this point to a slave cylinder problem??
Thanks, Gareth.
#6
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Glad to hear it's now sorted Andrew. I'd be surprised that a new wheel bearing could affect the geo of the car. Just see how it goes for a bit. Did they put your new RS engine mounts on too? If so, what do you think?
#7
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Hi - just stumbled across this thread - good to see you solved it Andrew.
My gear engagement was iffy, especially 1st after a warm up. Solved with new engine mounts (used cheaper 993 mounts).
However, I also have play at the top of the pedal. replaced roll pin to no effect.
Pumped pedal after Makmov's suggestion, and has helped reduce the top of travel play.
Does this point to a slave cylinder problem??
Thanks, Gareth.
My gear engagement was iffy, especially 1st after a warm up. Solved with new engine mounts (used cheaper 993 mounts).
However, I also have play at the top of the pedal. replaced roll pin to no effect.
Pumped pedal after Makmov's suggestion, and has helped reduce the top of travel play.
Does this point to a slave cylinder problem??
Thanks, Gareth.
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#8
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Hi - no - just pumped the pedal 15 or so times...
can't bleed the system, as my bleed screw has snapped off (was rusty) - need to wait until next service, and get it done then.
just wondered if it was pointing towards a new slave cylinder...
can't bleed the system, as my bleed screw has snapped off (was rusty) - need to wait until next service, and get it done then.
just wondered if it was pointing towards a new slave cylinder...
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i guess the drift might be a tracking change rather than the geo? - either way, it's such a small change there's no real issue for this weekend. see you there mate
#10
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If I had a broken bleed screw on my slave cylinder, I would replace the entire cylinder. The cost of the slaves is not high and you have to remove the slave anyway to drill out the broken bleed. While you are at it, I would replace the slave's rubber hose too. They deteriorate over time. The slave part price is $80 and the hose is $30.
#11
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Thanks Rob!!
My slave cylinder hose is looking like it has seen better days - so will be definitely replacing that.
Didn't realise that the slave cylinder was inexpensive - will also be getting that done.
Thanks for the info!!
My slave cylinder hose is looking like it has seen better days - so will be definitely replacing that.
Didn't realise that the slave cylinder was inexpensive - will also be getting that done.
Thanks for the info!!