"but the other side screw appears to be hidden away behind a large pipe. does that large pipe have to be removed?" Yes it is better to remove the pipe so you have good access to the screw on the distributor as it is in an awkward position to begin with especially if it hasn't been removed in awhile as they tend to seize. You're lucky cause it has been loosened lately, just make sure you have the correct screw driver (i.e I think its's a #2 phillips) of the correct length as the body of the car is in the way of direct access otherwise you run the risk of stripping the head of the screw if the previous person put it on tight.

 

An easier test is to remove the coil wire from the upper (main) distributor and then try to start the car. It should start on the secondary distributor, indicating the belt is OK, if it doesn't start then the belt is broken.

 

If you start and run the car with the coil wire unterminated, you will cook the ignition driver module ($194/each) for that coil.

Thats why I recommended simply removing the lower cap and seeing if the rotor turns freely or not.

 

Interesting....this the first time I've heard this!

 

When I checked with my mechanic, he said it wasn't a good idea!?

 

Update ... mechanic checked the distributors and all ok (not buy pulling leads but some sort of fuse thing sort of under the coils). Then had a road test listen and confirmed it was pinging, albeit quite minor.

Put in a bottle of octane booster (to take my 98RON fuel higher). Seems to have resolved the issue 98%.

Based on the possibility that I don't have the original OEM chip, I am considering:

a) just buy the SW chip & install

b) open my box and check if I have the stock chip - this sounds like a hassle but probably worth checking before spending $400 on the SW chip. Then either (a) if it is OEM chip, I still have a problem with no explanation, or (b) hopefully it is a non-OEM chip and hence explains the pinging.

Probably (b) is the way to go.

 

(b) sounds like a good plan.

 

I proceeded to open the motronic box for the first time .... finally cracked it open and .... it was not an OEM chip!

I expect this is the cause of the pinging so it is time for it to go. Next step will be researching chips .. presumably the SW chips are the way to go from the feedback that I have been reading on this forum.

Wow ... the non-OEM chips sells for about US$1000!?!? It is not looking like great value at this point ... my diagnosis will be confirmed when I replace the chip.

 

Sell it to someone who can provide their car with higher octane fuel.

 

Yes .. re-selling sounds like a good plan.

Hopefully the potential SW group buy in the other thread gets a resolution soon. I might have to order one directly as I need one soon and don't want to wait weeks.

 

Been a while but just to close this out .... the pinging was resolved with the SW chip.

The chip causing the pinging was a POWERCHIP.

 

aha so it was detonation gotcha

 

7 years later! LOL How do you like the SW chip? Did you ever put the OEM chip back in to compare with the SW?

 

there are more than multiple positive reviews of Steve's chip here so buy with confidence - a super nice guy to deal with too.

 

I never had an OEM chip to compare.

As above, you cant go wrong with the SW chip.