Question for KW V3 owners
07-29-2010, 09:52 PM
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Question for KW V3 owners
Greetings all - I obtained a KW V3 kit sans the main springs and I am a little concerned with the spring rates of 170 and 458 for front and rear respectively. In particular the fronts seem a bit soft especially when compared to the rears.
What are the thoughts from those who've run 'em, (or anyone else for that matter
. Also, anybody play with 225 or higher rate springs up front or softer rears to bring the ratio down?
BTW, I spoke to the techs at KW and they say that if I stay within 70-100lbs per inch, the dampers will be ok with different rates.
What are the thoughts from those who've run 'em, (or anyone else for that matter
. Also, anybody play with 225 or higher rate springs up front or softer rears to bring the ratio down?BTW, I spoke to the techs at KW and they say that if I stay within 70-100lbs per inch, the dampers will be ok with different rates.
07-29-2010, 10:19 PM
#2
RL Technical Advisor
Shamus,
Spring rates must be considered in context as well as usage. For a car driven primarily for the street, the 170lb-458lb setup assures decent ride quality on Oregon streets and roads.
For track use, expecially on DOT-R spec tires, I'd be using something stiffer. I would also add tenders if you spring it for such usage to maintain a semblance of ride quality. Shoot for a 200lb split between front & rear for good balance.
Spring rates must be considered in context as well as usage. For a car driven primarily for the street, the 170lb-458lb setup assures decent ride quality on Oregon streets and roads.
For track use, expecially on DOT-R spec tires, I'd be using something stiffer. I would also add tenders if you spring it for such usage to maintain a semblance of ride quality. Shoot for a 200lb split between front & rear for good balance.
07-30-2010, 12:30 AM
#3
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Reston, VA
Posts: 1,339
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Shamus,
Spring rates must be considered in context as well as usage. For a car driven primarily for the street, the 170lb-458lb setup assures decent ride quality on Oregon streets and roads.
For track use, expecially on DOT-R spec tires, I'd be using something stiffer. I would also add tenders if you spring it for such usage to maintain a semblance of ride quality. Shoot for a 200lb split between front & rear for good balance.
Spring rates must be considered in context as well as usage. For a car driven primarily for the street, the 170lb-458lb setup assures decent ride quality on Oregon streets and roads.
For track use, expecially on DOT-R spec tires, I'd be using something stiffer. I would also add tenders if you spring it for such usage to maintain a semblance of ride quality. Shoot for a 200lb split between front & rear for good balance.
07-30-2010, 12:40 AM
#4
Pro
Thread Starter
Shamus,
Spring rates must be considered in context as well as usage. For a car driven primarily for the street, the 170lb-458lb setup assures decent ride quality on Oregon streets and roads.
For track use, expecially on DOT-R spec tires, I'd be using something stiffer. I would also add tenders if you spring it for such usage to maintain a semblance of ride quality. Shoot for a 200lb split between front & rear for good balance.
Spring rates must be considered in context as well as usage. For a car driven primarily for the street, the 170lb-458lb setup assures decent ride quality on Oregon streets and roads.
For track use, expecially on DOT-R spec tires, I'd be using something stiffer. I would also add tenders if you spring it for such usage to maintain a semblance of ride quality. Shoot for a 200lb split between front & rear for good balance.
My plans for the car are mostly street w/the occasional track day. On the street I'm running uber-sticky RS3's which are a 140 rated tire which is part of the reason for my concern on the front rate in particular.
The V3 kit is a tender/mainspring setup and the tenders are 57 and 114 lbs front and rear respectively which is a 50% ratio in rates.
I think it comes down to whether I should go with the 229 fronts, and if so, should I stick with the 457 rears, or bump them down to 400. I don't want the rear too softly sprung but nor do I want it too stiff. I can't take the fronts any higher without/a revalve.
Thoughts?
07-30-2010, 12:44 AM
#5
Pro
Thread Starter
That's my understanding, however, from what I've read most 'tender' springs are nearly completely compressed when the car's weight is on them, so their impact may be minimal, or pretty focused to certain types of the damping events.
07-30-2010, 03:19 AM
#6
RL Technical Advisor
These usually rest in coil bind when the car isn't moving, but become an active part of the supension system once the car is in motion. The crossover between spring rates is a function of the lengths of each spring.
07-30-2010, 03:23 AM
#7
RL Technical Advisor
Good to hear from you Steve!
My plans for the car are mostly street w/the occasional track day. On the street I'm running uber-sticky RS3's which are a 140 rated tire which is part of the reason for my concern on the front rate in particular.
The V3 kit is a tender/mainspring setup and the tenders are 57 and 114 lbs front and rear respectively which is a 50% ratio in rates.
I think it comes down to whether I should go with the 229 fronts, and if so, should I stick with the 457 rears, or bump them down to 400. I don't want the rear too softly sprung but nor do I want it too stiff. I can't take the fronts any higher without/a revalve.
Thoughts?
My plans for the car are mostly street w/the occasional track day. On the street I'm running uber-sticky RS3's which are a 140 rated tire which is part of the reason for my concern on the front rate in particular.
The V3 kit is a tender/mainspring setup and the tenders are 57 and 114 lbs front and rear respectively which is a 50% ratio in rates.
I think it comes down to whether I should go with the 229 fronts, and if so, should I stick with the 457 rears, or bump them down to 400. I don't want the rear too softly sprung but nor do I want it too stiff. I can't take the fronts any higher without/a revalve.
Thoughts?
To help maintain neutrality and minimize understeer, I'd leave it as is and try it. Personal preference and driver experience plays a large role in optimal spring selection and with the sticky tires, you really don't want to go softer.
