What service would you give a car with spotty service history?
07-27-2010, 02:53 PM
#61
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Having said that, I would say I liked them better when Terry had a couple of guys in a reconfigured insurance office. It just felt a little more "grassroots". Now he's a big deal and it feels a little colder.
Thanks!
07-27-2010, 08:38 PM
#62
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Not the least of which, your wallet!!! (sorry, I couldn't help it)
It's not really, because you haven't done anything yet.
Did you say this mechanic is (was?) a friend of yours?
I look at this list, and I don't see a reason here to slit your wrists.
Maybe just scratch 'em a little.
You had some money left over after that cheap deal, right?
Honestly, smart@ssing aside, you could really cherry-pick this for now.
(and as others have noted, this guy IS trying to rip you off, I'm afraid)
I don't know that much about Porsche power steering racks (though I DO like the name), but I know enough to know he's trying to go to the Bahamas just on that alone. The PO did mine at a Porsche dealer and it was nowhere near that price. They're spendy on any car, but do what these guys have suggested to mitigate that problem. He's trying to rob you.
Here's an overview of the quote in no particular order:
Inspect client's list - $223 HUH??? Is that really what it sounds like?
Initial diag of power door lock malfunction, found passenger door lock malfunction, remove door panel, access, found cylinder linkage components had come loose, resecure, recheck lock operation, no further problem experienced at this time.
Initial diagnosis of SRS and seat belt warning light illuminated, access fault code memory, one code currently stored for low voltage, clear fault code memory, recommend client drive vehicle to see if code returns.
Inspect remainder of client's list, see estimate for details
60k service - $1578
Flush and renew brake fluid and AWD system - $209
Replace (2) small hoses to oil tank (leaking profusely) - $268
Replace power steering rack and pinion assembly (leaking heavily) - $3206
Replace all (4) rear C/V boots - $711
Replace air conditioning condensor fan resistor (failed, fan cycles constantly) - $263
Replace front diff pinion seal (moderate fluid leak), change front diff fluid - $551
Replace drive belts - $177
Replace door jamb switch covers - $27
Replace both missing rearmost clips for air filter housing (missing) - $37
Lubricate window tracks and engine lid cover release (all stiff) - $49
Not doing at this time:
Reseal camshaft chain housing to case and cam chain housing covers - $2408
Replace both front sway bar links (upper boots torn, no play yet) - $457
Replace front trunk support shocks - $120
Replace all (4) aftermarket wheel locks and replace with regular lugs - $60
Perform door pocket modification to both doors (cracked and breaking) - $309
Replace both distributor caps, rotors, and replace rubber drive belt (inspected, all are in good working order) - $687
Spare DME relay - $88
Access and clean ISV (not deemed necessary) - $99
Notes:
No failed fuses at this time
Vehicle battery passes test at this time
Spare tire, jack, wheel lock, and tool kit in place
Air con blows cold air, however low air flow from right center right vent, requires diagnosis
Front and rear brakes have approx 80% wear life remaining.
All engine undertrays missing
Both front strut bump stops and dust boots are torn.
Low tone horn does not function
Mirror switch cover missing.
Both power mirror switches failed, client is aware of this issue.
Both door panels have front upper forward plastic caps broken.
Driver side front seat belt upper trim cap and buckle stay missing.
Driver and passenger side rocker panels loose.
Alternator noisy when operating.
Ashtray does not lock into place.
Interior temp sensor cover missing, part of climate control head.
Heat sheild on left rear bumper lose (going to fix that, no quote yet).
Passenger side lower speaker cover is loose.
Spark plug wires are oil soaked, no cracking at this time.
Jack, lug wrench, and wheel key are present.
Airflow meter is vane stale, no recommended cleaning like newer airflow meters.
Gawd... well, do the stuff that constitutes a 60K (and find a different guy to do it). That'll take care of all your belts and fluids, that he curiously has listed separately down list.
I would do the CV boots, if it were me.
Do the hoses obviously, do the resistor and the door checks. That's all pretty small potatoes.
Try to do the little stuff yourself; do not pay him $50 to lubricate little things, grrrrr....
Then add gasoline & drive. Get a 2nd. opinion on the rest of the stuff WHICH YOU WILL BE GETTING FROM YOUR NEW MECHANIC AFTER YOU'VE KICKED THIS A$$HAT TO THE CURB, and address it as you can.
It's funny, on a few things (very few), he's not too bad, but the rest, he's astronomical.
I still think you did okay on the car, it's just been neglected for a while (which I kinda suspected before you bought it).
It'll all come out in the wash...
It's not really, because you haven't done anything yet.
Did you say this mechanic is (was?) a friend of yours?
I look at this list, and I don't see a reason here to slit your wrists.
Maybe just scratch 'em a little.
You had some money left over after that cheap deal, right?
Honestly, smart@ssing aside, you could really cherry-pick this for now.
(and as others have noted, this guy IS trying to rip you off, I'm afraid)
I don't know that much about Porsche power steering racks (though I DO like the name), but I know enough to know he's trying to go to the Bahamas just on that alone. The PO did mine at a Porsche dealer and it was nowhere near that price. They're spendy on any car, but do what these guys have suggested to mitigate that problem. He's trying to rob you.
Here's an overview of the quote in no particular order:
Inspect client's list - $223 HUH??? Is that really what it sounds like?
Initial diag of power door lock malfunction, found passenger door lock malfunction, remove door panel, access, found cylinder linkage components had come loose, resecure, recheck lock operation, no further problem experienced at this time.
Initial diagnosis of SRS and seat belt warning light illuminated, access fault code memory, one code currently stored for low voltage, clear fault code memory, recommend client drive vehicle to see if code returns.
Inspect remainder of client's list, see estimate for details
60k service - $1578
Flush and renew brake fluid and AWD system - $209
Replace (2) small hoses to oil tank (leaking profusely) - $268
Replace power steering rack and pinion assembly (leaking heavily) - $3206
Replace all (4) rear C/V boots - $711
Replace air conditioning condensor fan resistor (failed, fan cycles constantly) - $263
Replace front diff pinion seal (moderate fluid leak), change front diff fluid - $551
Replace drive belts - $177
Replace door jamb switch covers - $27
Replace both missing rearmost clips for air filter housing (missing) - $37
Lubricate window tracks and engine lid cover release (all stiff) - $49
Not doing at this time:
Reseal camshaft chain housing to case and cam chain housing covers - $2408
Replace both front sway bar links (upper boots torn, no play yet) - $457
Replace front trunk support shocks - $120
Replace all (4) aftermarket wheel locks and replace with regular lugs - $60
Perform door pocket modification to both doors (cracked and breaking) - $309
Replace both distributor caps, rotors, and replace rubber drive belt (inspected, all are in good working order) - $687
Spare DME relay - $88
Access and clean ISV (not deemed necessary) - $99
Notes:
No failed fuses at this time
Vehicle battery passes test at this time
Spare tire, jack, wheel lock, and tool kit in place
Air con blows cold air, however low air flow from right center right vent, requires diagnosis
Front and rear brakes have approx 80% wear life remaining.
All engine undertrays missing
Both front strut bump stops and dust boots are torn.
Low tone horn does not function
Mirror switch cover missing.
Both power mirror switches failed, client is aware of this issue.
Both door panels have front upper forward plastic caps broken.
Driver side front seat belt upper trim cap and buckle stay missing.
Driver and passenger side rocker panels loose.
Alternator noisy when operating.
Ashtray does not lock into place.
Interior temp sensor cover missing, part of climate control head.
Heat sheild on left rear bumper lose (going to fix that, no quote yet).
Passenger side lower speaker cover is loose.
Spark plug wires are oil soaked, no cracking at this time.
Jack, lug wrench, and wheel key are present.
Airflow meter is vane stale, no recommended cleaning like newer airflow meters.
I would do the CV boots, if it were me.
Do the hoses obviously, do the resistor and the door checks. That's all pretty small potatoes.
Try to do the little stuff yourself; do not pay him $50 to lubricate little things, grrrrr....
Then add gasoline & drive. Get a 2nd. opinion on the rest of the stuff WHICH YOU WILL BE GETTING FROM YOUR NEW MECHANIC AFTER YOU'VE KICKED THIS A$$HAT TO THE CURB, and address it as you can.
It's funny, on a few things (very few), he's not too bad, but the rest, he's astronomical.
I still think you did okay on the car, it's just been neglected for a while (which I kinda suspected before you bought it).
It'll all come out in the wash...
07-27-2010, 09:35 PM
#63
You still coming up on Friday Doug? If so lemme know and we can stop by a good shop here (close to where you'd be going anyway) to see if you might be interested. Maybe you can bring your list up (and some notes from this thread) and talk to him about it.
There really are a number of things that can be done DIY. I've done a few as preventative in the past year since I got my 964. With it being the second time we could knock them out pretty quick.
There really are a number of things that can be done DIY. I've done a few as preventative in the past year since I got my 964. With it being the second time we could knock them out pretty quick.
07-27-2010, 11:03 PM
#64
Not trying to play Monday morning QB here or kick a guy while he is down, but did you have a PPI done on this car?? Considering the numerous previous Porsches in your sig I am shocked you would have skipped this nominal expense. Most of these items (leaking CV boots, leaking steering rack, leaking oil hose) would have been observed by putting the car on a lift. Have you considered bailing on the car? Not saying this is the best option for you but from a finacial perspective cutting your losses may be something to consider. Best of luck whichever way you go.
07-28-2010, 08:29 AM
#65
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I don't agree with that at all. They're just an expensive place that only uses OEM parts. But we're only going to do about 30% of The List with them, so we'll work evertying else out down the road. When I let them know this they had no problems with it at all.
07-28-2010, 08:32 AM
#66
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Thanks, I'm still planning on attending weekend festivities. I won't have the car, however. Most likely I'll just take it to Ken Farler's (who usually does my work around here) and have him do a few things that I won't do. Then I'll try to tackle the rest DIY. ..in time.
07-28-2010, 08:37 AM
#67
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Not trying to play Monday morning QB here or kick a guy while he is down, but did you have a PPI done on this car?? Considering the numerous previous Porsches in your sig I am shocked you would have skipped this nominal expense. Most of these items (leaking CV boots, leaking steering rack, leaking oil hose) would have been observed by putting the car on a lift. Have you considered bailing on the car? Not saying this is the best option for you but from a finacial perspective cutting your losses may be something to consider. Best of luck whichever way you go.
I don't think I could bail on this car. However I've considered it. We'll see how I feel about it once I actually get to enjoy the car for a while. ...IF I can actually enjoy the car.
07-28-2010, 01:16 PM
#68
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Update - Got a call from the tech today who informed me that the owner agreed to use the same ZF steering rack I was suggesting. So they're buying it and going to put it in. The other advantage..???...there is shared labor with one of the other fixes, so I'm going to save about another $300 by having them do it.
I tried to use this as an opening to get them to buy CV boots from Pelican, but he said they've actually had "warranty problems" with those boots and don't like to use them. Whatever...I'm still not paying $50 a boot to fix it. Although now I'm concerned about another 120-150 miles on axles with torn boots. We'll be searching that fix very soon.
I tried to use this as an opening to get them to buy CV boots from Pelican, but he said they've actually had "warranty problems" with those boots and don't like to use them. Whatever...I'm still not paying $50 a boot to fix it. Although now I'm concerned about another 120-150 miles on axles with torn boots. We'll be searching that fix very soon.
07-28-2010, 01:21 PM
#69
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Doug, I've fixed boots before on other cars and I can honestly tell you that $50 each to be done right is a good price...
Cuz, I wouldn't do it for that...LOL!
Cuz, I wouldn't do it for that...LOL!
Last edited by CaptainCalf; 07-28-2010 at 01:22 PM. Reason: add
07-28-2010, 01:34 PM
#70
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I'm just having a hard time paying 5x the price of the boot through Pelican. 2x, maybe. But 5x? ..no.
07-28-2010, 10:28 PM
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This bears double checking, but if the engine is from a 993, I believe those engines have hydraulic valve lifters that don't need adjusting. That is a big part of the cost of a 964 engine 60k service. FWIW, I had my steering rack replaced six years ago; cost was $500 for the rebuilt rack (griffiths.com; they advertise in Panorama) plus $421 for labor that also included a 4-wheel alignment. Any number of places will rebuild your distributors with a new belt and vent kit for ~$200. New belts are ~$30. I paid to have a shop replaced rear CV boots on one axle ($383) but is a fairly easy job to DIY for about $100. I believe a lot of those things on the list are fairly simple DIY. Save your money for the really expensive things. Nice color of car; hope it makes you happy.
07-29-2010, 08:39 AM
#73
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Thanks Richard. Engine is from a '93 964.
Cam, I'm unable to buy parts for this shop...I have to use what they get (with the exception of the ZF rebuilt steering rack, which they approved).
Please keep in mind this is not my usual shop. This was the closest one to the car that I trust for their expertise. I didn't want to drive the car a long distance until I had expert eyes on it. When I get it back this weekend, I'll start using my local mechanic (who will have no problem letting me buy parts and is cheaper labor) or I'll start working whatever items I can DIY.
Cheers.
Cam, I'm unable to buy parts for this shop...I have to use what they get (with the exception of the ZF rebuilt steering rack, which they approved).
Please keep in mind this is not my usual shop. This was the closest one to the car that I trust for their expertise. I didn't want to drive the car a long distance until I had expert eyes on it. When I get it back this weekend, I'll start using my local mechanic (who will have no problem letting me buy parts and is cheaper labor) or I'll start working whatever items I can DIY.
Cheers.
07-29-2010, 09:10 AM
#74
While the total amount is daunting, I would not be that worried. I have at least that much to do on my own Velvet red, but I still drive it every day and will do the work as it comes, with obvious priority to functional stuff. And you can cut costs as others have mentionned.
CV joints are a must do. I would not drive without the belows. Imagine dirt in there... Mmhh coffee grinder
CV joints are a must do. I would not drive without the belows. Imagine dirt in there... Mmhh coffee grinder
