Engine Rebuild
05-25-2010, 01:20 PM
#16
If you do this make sure you securely cap the refrigerant lines at the compressor(and condenser). A/C systems do not like to be contaminated with moisture, particles etc.
05-25-2010, 10:23 PM
#17
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I'm going to have to disagree on this one. I have the RS LWF and clutch and I also bought a brand new ISV (after several clean out attempts on the old one) and I have now been through three different Steve Wong chips. Result? My RS America still sometimes has a tendency to stall at lights or in traffic if I have the AC running. I'm not saying not to do the LWF and clutch mod. It really wakes up the throttle response and rev matching and it makes the car a whole lot more fun. But just be aware that it may come at a cost of having to manage the stalling tendencies. Everything is a trade off.
05-25-2010, 10:29 PM
#18
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I hear your good point, but since I try to avoid driving the car in the rain (not my DD) I'm hoping the loss of AC won't really affect me there. I'm sure you are absolutely correct that defrost without AC doesn't cut it. Thanks!
05-25-2010, 10:31 PM
#19
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05-25-2010, 10:32 PM
#20
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05-26-2010, 02:48 AM
#21
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I can recommend the Dougherty DC21 Cams. They work nice in a stock motor and give a noticeable increase in performance. For around $600 a set it's a great thing to do while it's in bits.
I got 225enginekw with the cams, a $60chip and a basic exhaust. (Primary bypass, 100 cell CAT.)
I got 225enginekw with the cams, a $60chip and a basic exhaust. (Primary bypass, 100 cell CAT.)
05-26-2010, 12:13 PM
#22
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BTW, be careful of getting sucked into scope creep. The engine rebuild on my RS America started at an estimated $12K and ended up over $17K by the time we got through doing all the "while we're in there" and "this would be a great upgrade" stuff. But on the plus side, my engine is much more bullet proof now than when it left the factory in 1993.
05-26-2010, 11:22 PM
#23
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I can recommend the Dougherty DC21 Cams. They work nice in a stock motor and give a noticeable increase in performance. For around $600 a set it's a great thing to do while it's in bits.
I got 225enginekw with the cams, a $60chip and a basic exhaust. (Primary bypass, 100 cell CAT.)
I got 225enginekw with the cams, a $60chip and a basic exhaust. (Primary bypass, 100 cell CAT.)
BTW, be careful of getting sucked into scope creep. The engine rebuild on my RS America started at an estimated $12K and ended up over $17K by the time we got through doing all the "while we're in there" and "this would be a great upgrade" stuff. But on the plus side, my engine is much more bullet proof now than when it left the factory in 1993.
But I do appreciate your cautionary advice.
05-26-2010, 11:45 PM
#24
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Taylor is solid and had done a lot of the maintenance on my 993 when he was at ASG. I would gladly have him working on my 964, but he has moved to the new shop which is another 30 minutes or so farther away from me and Geoff at ASG is also a solid guy that I trust.
Your in good hands and if Taylor says it is time for the build it is truly time. He isn't one to push for something when it isn't needed.
-Skip
Your in good hands and if Taylor says it is time for the build it is truly time. He isn't one to push for something when it isn't needed.
-Skip
05-27-2010, 11:41 PM
#25
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Taylor is solid and had done a lot of the maintenance on my 993 when he was at ASG. I would gladly have him working on my 964, but he has moved to the new shop which is another 30 minutes or so farther away from me and Geoff at ASG is also a solid guy that I trust.
Your in good hands and if Taylor says it is time for the build it is truly time. He isn't one to push for something when it isn't needed.
-Skip
Your in good hands and if Taylor says it is time for the build it is truly time. He isn't one to push for something when it isn't needed.
-Skip
05-28-2010, 10:56 PM
#27
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06-01-2010, 11:01 PM
#28
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BTW, be careful of getting sucked into scope creep. The engine rebuild on my RS America started at an estimated $12K and ended up over $17K by the time we got through doing all the "while we're in there" and "this would be a great upgrade" stuff. But on the plus side, my engine is much more bullet proof now than when it left the factory in 1993.
Seriously though, I am making a visit on Friday (3 days from now) to review the disassembled top end and confab with the mechanic about where to go from there. I think I have decided (unless he talks me down) to ditch the A/C. I am also leaning towards a cam upgrade (I did contact Dougherty and they recommended a regrind), so I need to follow through on that.
Any last minute comments on what to look for or ask about? I'll get some photos too. Your helpful thoughts are always appreciated! Thanks.
06-02-2010, 03:53 AM
#29
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I find it interesting about the LWF and stalling. While I do know many have suffered from it, there does not seem to an iron clad reason for why some do it and some don't. I decided to have one installed by a respected local mechanic that gave me a guarantee that if it was not to my satisfaction and he could not get it right then he would return it to the DMF for free. Well I never had the stalling issue and have had it in the car now for over two years and well over 25,000 miles. It can stall once in a while with the A/C on when coming off the highway but otherwise causes no problems. The setup I have is the factory RS flywheel and matching disc and pressure plate. The funny thing to me is that when he installed the LWF no other mods were made to address the stalling. It just never became a problem. I also get almost none of the noise that others posters have talked about. Except for a little gear rattle when lightly lugging the engine, like rolling from a stop in second gear, it makes absolutely no perceptable noise whatsoever. With my experience I would not hesitate to encourage others to do the LWF.
06-02-2010, 09:45 AM
#30
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The LWF is a real crapshoot. You will either have no problem or an ongoing not fun to drive (and problematIc for resale) car. The more mods done to the engine, open intake, cams, exhaust, and the more accessories regularly used; AC, lights etc...increase the probability you will have a real driveability problem. I see NO advantage to doing it for a street driven car, in fact I think it hurts low end throttle response. The real benifit is high rpm matching on the track. I have two, and one car has been switched back and forth because I thought I has a better solution, no so the street car is going back to DMF, the LWF stays in the full race car.
Some get lucky and only have slight problems but it's not worth the risk IMHO...
Some get lucky and only have slight problems but it's not worth the risk IMHO...
Last edited by J richard; 06-02-2010 at 02:38 PM.