ducnine

Hey guys having fun yet?

So my winter project is finally starting to wrap up in spring. I got the car all buttoned up and now I am going to put oil in it. Its been sitting since November with the oil drained. During the winter months I opened up the drain bolts a few times and had more oil drain out.

There probably is a very thin film of oil on the engine bits at this point. It could also be bone dry, I am not sure.

Just thinking about it, in all the other cars I ever put oil in, it would usually go into to the top of the engine. In the Porsche, the new oil is going to go directly into the tank? I suspect the thermostat won't open for a while after I start the engine to get the oil flowing, is this going to be a problem? Remember the oil that is able to drain out is probably all out of it. I was using Mobil 1 and now I am switching to Brad Penn.

Any advice on starting procedure before I try it this weekend.

Having necer done one, when you do a fresh engine rebuild, is the situation similar, no oil on the engine bits?

Indycam

I would put 6 in and then crank over the motor with the ignition disabled .
Let the oil get into the pump / lines etc etc etc .
The motor will be fine with just 6 .

After you see oil pressure on the gauge for a little bit , hook up the ignition and try for a start up .

911Jetta

Pull the DME relay in the trunk, crank it a bit, install the relay back in and add the rest of the oil.

Enjoy your "green" oil, mine hasn't leaked since I recently switched to BP.

Indycam

The rebuild process should include lubing the moving parts as the motor is being put together . The crank / rods should be lubed up , the cylinders / pistons / rings should be oiled up .

One of the nice things about a flat engine is that the oil will not run down and away from the pistons . The oil will be happy to sit between the piston and cylinder for a very long time . The horizontal piston / cylinder stays wet . The vertical piston / cylinder has gravity pulling the oil down and away .

ducnine

Ok will try this.

So the thermostat will be open when the enging/oil is cold? So that will let the oil run through the lines?

Looking forward to being leak free soon.

Rocket Rob

No. The thermostat will be closed until the oil warms up but meanwhile the engine will have sufficient oil.

ian89C4

Yup, I would treat it like a pertial rebuild. Put in 6 quarts, pull the fuse to the DME relay, Crank the engine for 30 seconds, let the starter cool for 2 and then crank for another 30 seconds, you should see the oil pressure go up to 1.5 or 2. Let the starter cool for a bit and then replace the fuse for the relay. Crank her up and you should be good to go. While the car is running, put in the rest of the oil.....

altarchsa

To answer your question more directly about any potential lack of oil until the thermostat opens, the thermostat just allows oil to circulate to the cooler at the front of the car when the proper temperature is reached. In other words, the thermostat is between the sump tank and the cooler, not between the tank and the engine. The oil in the tank is always available to the engine.

That's why it is important to add oil to a less than full level, as described above, and then check the oil level after reaching the temperature at which the thermostat opens. The entire system is then available to the tank and the oil level reading, by gauge or dipstick, will be accurate.

ducnine

Thank you guys very much.

ducnine

Well I got the beast started. What a glorious sound after 6 months of slumber.

Now the thing is that my idle fluctuates but roughly hovering around 3k rpm. I don't remember if it used to do that.

What rpm is it supposed to idle?

Also now I see that all the hoses and stuff that I replaced, the thing still leaks a little. Within the short time I had it running, I see oil coming from between the head and block on the Left side around the middle cylinder. Its the old oil that is comign out now cause its amber color not green like the Brad Pen. I will run it more to see if the brad penn comes out. But noe looking at the drip I can see that is where it was dripping all along. Oh Well.

First the idle and I will figure out what to do about the leak after running the BP a little.

xeps

I believe idle is ~880. 3000 is definitely high.

jevvy964

Air leaks would cause strange idle - get looking for lose hoses and clips.

Hope the drip isnt too bad

Rocket Rob

As long as the drip is not bad, I would give it a week or so to settle in. I replaced the gasket for the cam chain cover and it still dripped after 30 minutes of idling. I was crushed. However when I drove the car to work for a week, by the second day, the oil drip had stopped. Horay! I hope your problem is as easily solved.