964 Brake Bleeding
#1
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Well, I have bled the brakes, along with new rotors, new pads, some new piston seals, etc... Of course I bled both sides of the caliper and Also the clutch slave cylinder. The RSA is on Jack stands with wheels off. So during and after each caliper bleed I have checked for leaks, which there are no leaks. Reservoirs is at the Max line/level.
So here is my question. I start the RSA and work the brake pedal 5 times and it feels "squishy". I recheck for leaks and all it tight and dry. Restart the RSA and it remains "squishy" at the brake pedal. So before I start a FEMA analysis can any listers give me some thought and advise ( T&A?) on this observation.
Much thanks in advance
rod911964
So here is my question. I start the RSA and work the brake pedal 5 times and it feels "squishy". I recheck for leaks and all it tight and dry. Restart the RSA and it remains "squishy" at the brake pedal. So before I start a FEMA analysis can any listers give me some thought and advise ( T&A?) on this observation.
Much thanks in advance
rod911964
#2
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
rdean,
If squishy means spongy, you may not have a leak but there may be air in the line. If it were me, I would re-bleed each wheel and ensure you have pressure at each wheel before moving on. Good Luck
biggles
If squishy means spongy, you may not have a leak but there may be air in the line. If it were me, I would re-bleed each wheel and ensure you have pressure at each wheel before moving on. Good Luck
biggles
#4
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Pressure bleeders help here (Search Motiv Power Bleeder)
I am usually leery about bleeding by pumping the pedal... often forcing the M/C past where it normally goes can lead to premature failure of seals within the M/C, as in older cars the bore of the cylinder can get rough or pitted, thus marring the seals on the male components.
I am usually leery about bleeding by pumping the pedal... often forcing the M/C past where it normally goes can lead to premature failure of seals within the M/C, as in older cars the bore of the cylinder can get rough or pitted, thus marring the seals on the male components.
#5
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Were the calipers off the car for a rebuild? Are you using a pressure bleeder? Was the fluid reservoir contantly full during the bleed? How much fluid did you add?
A little more info would help zero in on possible issues. Pedal should definitely not feel squishy.
A little more info would help zero in on possible issues. Pedal should definitely not feel squishy.
#6
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
More details
Motiv Pressure Bleeder used at 22psi
Fluid collected ~ 16 oz. (Pepsi bottle)
Fluid input ~ 30 oz (~2 oz remaining in virgin can)
The Brake Pedal was only applied to determine "feel" not to bleed
Sounds like I just do another bleed?
Other thoughts / advise
Thanks
rod911964
Motiv Pressure Bleeder used at 22psi
Fluid collected ~ 16 oz. (Pepsi bottle)
Fluid input ~ 30 oz (~2 oz remaining in virgin can)
The Brake Pedal was only applied to determine "feel" not to bleed
Sounds like I just do another bleed?
Other thoughts / advise
Thanks
rod911964
#7
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Trending Topics
#9
Nordschleife Master
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have always found that new pads, especially when new rotors are fitted at the same time, feel squishy until I have bedded them in. I go out and do the 60 to 10 braking without locking the wheels procedure a number of times. When I get to the about the 5th go the pedal starts to firm up.
#10
Three Wheelin'
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have always found that new pads, especially when new rotors are fitted at the same time, feel squishy until I have bedded them in. I go out and do the 60 to 10 braking without locking the wheels procedure a number of times. When I get to the about the 5th go the pedal starts to firm up.
#11
RL Technical Advisor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Just make completely certain there is no air in the system and go put miles on everything (using the brakes as much as you can).
It will get a lot better,.....
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#14
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
All, thanks for the input and help.
Put the RSA on the road today. Very cautious at first and the brakes seemed to respond/react fine. So I then take off for the 990 to bed the pads. The RSA stops in a hurry. Pedal feels just ok. I thought it would be a lot firmer.
Nonetheless, no leaks, level remains.
Put the RSA on the road today. Very cautious at first and the brakes seemed to respond/react fine. So I then take off for the 990 to bed the pads. The RSA stops in a hurry. Pedal feels just ok. I thought it would be a lot firmer.
Nonetheless, no leaks, level remains.
#15
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm pretty sure more bleeding is in order. When properly bled, your pedal should feel relatively firm after pushing down an inch or so. We're not talking rock hard but it should not feel squishy.
Keep going ... you'll be glad you did!
Keep going ... you'll be glad you did!
![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)