Just collected car from a 12k service (and loads more it tunred out, quadrupling the bill!), and the clock had stopped working. Checking Adirian Streather's book, I see fuse 11 is the one for the clock, and interior light.
As the light is working, I don't think it's the fuse. The switch which forwards the time is also not working.
Anyone have any suggestions, other than a complete clock failure?
I've emailed the garage, and await a response.

 

Dear mr pg

Did the clock work before it went in to get serviced?
What work was done on the car?

Bill

 

Yes, it was working. The alternator was re-conditioned as the car cut out whilst on test and failed to start due to a flat battery, but otherwise it was all mechanical bits.

 

Dear mr pg

If you're handy with a voltmeter, check to see if you have 12 volts at the clock connector. I think battery voltage is at pin 11. Or just check to see if the back light illuminates.

Bill

 

Common cause is cracked solder joints on the back of the clock.

See here for the repair:

http://p-car.com/diy/clockrepair/

 

Paul,

It may be completely coincidental, but the issue of the alternator and the clock is a surprising coincidence. The problem with the solder joints as mentioned above often gives rise to an apparently un-related problem of the alternator not charging until the engine is rev'ed to around 3000 rpm. Could this possibly be the symptom that justified the recon of the alternator?? I would imagine if it went unnoticed it could lead to a flat battery very easily.

The fix described via the p-car link is very easy to do if you're handy with a soldering iron and a solder sucker. I had the same problem a few years ago and did it myself and the problem has never returned.

Regards

Dave

 

Hmm... broken clock... could be terminal?

 

Yup , the clock is needed . Without it the car does not go far .

 

I think I see what you're getting at Dave, as I often have the light going out at 2800rpm. They left the engine running to get the oil up to temp and check for leaks as the oil lines have been replaced, with the possibility that the battery was not being charged in the mean time. Once they got it going though, the alternator was only putting out 9v.

 

The question is ..... do you still have the 2800rpm issue??? The charge light in the clock SHOULD go off immediately the engine is started. If there is any delay it is almost certainly an effect of the bad joints in the clock.

Now that they have changed/refurb'ed the alternator does it output more than 9 volts while on tickover??
My concern is that they may have refurb'ed the alternator through the mis-diagnosis of the problem and you may still be left with the clock problem.

Regards

Dave

 

I didn't notice whilst driving home last night, but will check this afternoon. I think it may just be the clock function itself, as the switch to change the time doesn't!
I'm waiting for Ollie to ring me.

 

Have spoke with the techie who told me they had the clock out whilst checking operation of the alternator, so I'll check later to see if any leads have been disturbed in the process, and take it from there.

 

As well as the main plug on the back there is another single wire IIRC. Maybe that one has not been put back?