sergiDA

Hi:

I am using my 964 exclusively for track days, I just brought it today to to the garage to make some work on filters, brake pad change...

I am thinking on wether there is some additional manteinance that is exclusive to track use, I should be doing to my car on top of very frequent change of fluids, filters and others which I already do.

Thanks for your advise...

Sergi

dave morris

Check all the basics ... rotors, pads, brake fluid, tires, tire pressure etc etc etc. Anything that impacts the basic safe operation of the car. Put the car up on a lift or jack stands and take a hard look at everything related to the suspension. Is anything cracked or broken. Check for any leaking fluids. "Nut and bolt" everything you can get to; ie, put a wrench on any bolt you can find on the underside of the car and make sure it's tight.

joey bagadonuts

Good list, Dave.

If this is a track-only car, I would also recommend that you use racing pads, remove the dust shields (plate on the rotor back side), remove the proportioning valve and replace the fluid with Castrol SRF. Also check the wheel bearings, CV lube and alignment/corner balance. Remove any loose or unnecessary items.

How many miles on this car? Dave's checklist should cover most things and I'm sure you've inspected every brake line and seal but knowing a little more might stir up additional thoughts.

joey bagadonuts

A couple other suspension items you may want to check are the age/condition of shocks. If they're older, they may require maintenance or replacement. Also, the anti-roll bar drop links should be inspected along with all bushings and movement.

Install tow bolts on the front and rear. Apply 3M headlight and fog light protective film. Double-check that all lights (especially brake lights) work. Confirm that LSD is operating within spec.

Have fun and be safe!

sergiDA

Thanks Dave and Joey for your kind advise:

We are going to lift the car "nut and bolt" and check on all the suspension, brakes, LSD...

Car is 100.0000 miles but 2000 mile ago engine was opened, seals replaced RS clutch installed, added LFW ( 8000 € invoice).... Suspension is now RED H&R dampers and springs, I am using racing pads, Castrol SRF... the whole thing is pretty well speced to have fun on track use, except brakes where I am still investigating what to do to avoid early overheating... so I now need to make sure it stays in place so your recommendations are all great. thanks

By the way Joey, do you know where to purchase Tow bolts which suit Porsche bumpers?


Thanks
Sergi

boxsey911

The best and cheapest place I have found in the UK is from the official Porsche dealers. About £12 if I remember correctly.

joey bagadonuts

In the US, Paragon seems to have a good deal at $13.95
http://www.paragon-products.com/prod...721.151.00.htm

This issue is hard to diagnos without knowing how you use your brakes prior to failure. In general, if you avoid engaging the ABS and utilize new race pads, SRF and improved cooling (removed dust shields), then I would not expect the brakes to overheat. Continued, hard braking will overheat the tires before boiling fluid or glazing pads, so it's important to adjust your braking point as grip levels change.

The trap many track drivers fall into is to maintain the same braking points throughout a session and brake harder when tire grip fades. The right answer is to brake sooner.

Also, you might want to confirm that you're using the correct air pressure for your tires. Overheated tires are often the result of cold pressures which are set too low. I use a probe-type pyrometer to determine the right pressure.

race911

And $10 from Suncoast! http://www.suncoastparts.com/product/99672115100&Category_Code=gtext.html (Someone will no doubt find them for $8.............)

Funny I didn't realize how cheap they were. I only had two laying around, but going to Laguna last week........with the gravel traps everywhere..........I wanted front and rear for both cars. So the having them both on the yellow car won out.

swftiii

Sergi,

As far as brakes - there were a couple of posts just recently in the Racing and in the 964 forum that I posted to with my issues of past and what I've done to address (this is what worked for me and I seem to be pushing the brakes pretty hard).

As others have said:
1. Castrol SRF (fresh)
2. Stainless brake lines
3. I use Porsche solid rotors (not sure if cross drilled will make a cooling difference, but something to look at)
4. Good track pads - I've tried PFC 97s and had issues, switched to Pagid Yellow RS29s and have been happy since with no soft pedal issues

I'm going to use some rotor paint to see temps next time I hit the track, but that won't be for a few months.

Get out there and anjoy the car...

-Skip

gchristofi

Hi Sergi
don't think it's been mentioned yet, but it's worth checking the condition of the engine carrier and making sure there are no early signs of cracks developing. There have been a few threads from unlucky guys who suffered catastrophic failure of the carrier, especially under the larger stresses of track driving. I think this failure is more likely if the engine mounts have failed or been replaced with performance items. There are options to re-inforce the carrier. Search of threads here should tell you all you need to know.
Cheers
Greg

joey bagadonuts

Yes! Great suggestion! I just did this recently:

newsboy

Steel lug Nuts?

plambert

Joey,

I'm thinking I should get the engine carrier gusset. How much of a PITA is it to get it out prior to having it welded?

joey bagadonuts

In terms of PITA factor, I'd say it's a 5 (less if you completely drop the motor).

Assuming you've got it lowered on a jack, the carrier, itself, is not that hard. It's the engine tin at the very back which offers some challenges. There are some tiny, hard-to-reach bolts holding it in place and then it needs to be "coaxed out" ever so gently so that you can slide the bracket out. Having a friend help (eyes on top) makes it a lot easier, as well.

Well worth the effort, though.