Duck

I had recently put on rear shocks and when putting on the rear bolts I did not get them tight enough. I thought I would be going for the front and have the Indy do all of them. Well today I figured I would tighten them cause the car had started feeling very shaky. As I was tighten the driver side, snap. The bolt sheared. I did not think I could do that, but I did have a cheater bar on my breaker bar. I knew I should have taken it in.

Well now I will be getting a used arm since I do not feel that it will work well to drill out. The bolt had sheared off well into the arm and must of stripped all the threads.

You live and you learn.

At least the weather was nice today and I did clean the convertible top and added a water repellent to it.

CT944

Not the end of the world, gives you another legitimate excuse to work on your 964

Duck

Luckily already sourced the part. Is it a major undertaking to switch out that part? I hate to think about working on the bolt that holds on the brakes. At least I know they have been taken off in the last few years so hopefully not too bad.

J richard

The death of many an alloy part and wheel lug is due to the lack of a torque wrench, it is suprising how easy it is to overtorque a bolt. There is little on these cars save the halfshaft gland nut that would take a big bar. If you do any halfway serious work on your car you should invest in a TQwrench and use it religiously...

at least that way you can always blame the bolt....

Kahdmus

Good luck, sounds like you are on your way to getting it sorted. A bit OT but what water repellent did you put on your top? I cleaned my top this weekend and was just commenting to my wife that i should put some water repellent on it before the rain that is scheduled this week.

Duck

Hi Kahdmus,

I got the 303 kit with cleaner and protectant. Easy to apply.

pantera43

I wouldn't be too hard on yourself. When I did my rear bearings I had to take off the bottom of the rear shocks. I was taken back to have had to use a breaker bar with cheater bar to break the bolts loose. They may have been already over stretched from the factory.

By the way does anyone know the correct torgue value for the bottom of the rear shocks??

Dan

springer3

If you buy a used arm, be sure to select it while it is still on the car. Most 964s in savlabe yards are badly wrecked, and it will extend the nightmare if you get sold a slightly bent arm. Regardless, you will be needing a 4-wheel alignment with the new arm.

If it were me, I would take the arm to a machine shop and get them to drill out the bolt and install an insert. Those are actually better threads than the ones cut directly into the aluminum.

jevvy964

You might find the snapped bit will unscrew from the arm without too much force - perhaps try some of these:



I've often managed to retrieve a snapped bit with pliers and easyouts - once the pressure is off the bolt(head snapped off) then its normally just the friction of the threads holding the snapped bit in place.

Worth a go anyway.

Good luck.

jevvy964

Sorry just re-read your post and saw this "and must of stripped all the threads" - just ignore me

J richard

You still may be better off taking it to the shop and having the remaining peice drilled out or burned out, a helicoil insert would be no big deal and a fraction of the cost and fuss of changing out the arm and realignment, bushings etc...

ValveFloat

148ft-lb