Notices
964 Forum 1989-1994
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

new to me 1990 C4 Cab

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-26-2010, 03:38 PM
  #1  
fogcity123
Advanced
Thread Starter
 
fogcity123's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default new to me 1990 C4 Cab

Hi. I had an 84 Carrera that I parted with about 4 years ago and have missed it. I just secured a deal for 90 C4 and was looking for a little guidance. I had a PPI and leakdown test done and was wondering which of these issues I need to address now and which can wait. Thanks for your help.

Engine over filled with oil.
Valves noisy.
Spoiler wall split.
Stearing wheel offset- needs allignment
Front control arm bushings cracked.
Heat shields for lower cam covers missing left and right.
Fluid leak at left of transmition.
Plug wires resting on exhaust.
Knock sensor in fault in DME.

Leak down / Comp Test
Cyl 1: 220psi 7% loss
2 225 4%
3 220 4%
4 220 4%
5 210 6%
6 210 5%

The car has 130k miles and no records from last 9 years. It looks great and drives wonderful. I'd like to do some of the needed things (possibly spoiler wall, heat shields?) myself but I don't know enough about engine or tranny work. The car (from dealer) came very clean top and bottom so its hard to see leaks but some are present. The PPI mech recomended a major servicing, replace the bushings and spoiler wall, allign, and a few other things but Im wondering if instead of dropping 3k into it right away its better to just drive it for awhile, let those (hidden) leaks expose themselves, see how the clutch holds up, and maybe wait to see if the engine needs to be pulled to correct any of those leaks or other issues and have all the stuff done then? Any advice would be appreciated. Also, where's the best place to pick up an owners manual? And also, whats the generally recomended oil and filter for these cars? Do they also hold 6-11 quarts?
Old 01-26-2010, 03:50 PM
  #2  
ilko
Agent Orange
Rennlist Member
 
ilko's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 16,190
Received 555 Likes on 199 Posts
Default

The leak down numbers are pretty good for a car with that mileage. You are looking at a few grand in repairs/maintenance, so unless you're paying low teens for that car I'd walk away.

The oil question is a very personal preference, there are 2 camps - Mobil 1 lovers and Mobil 1 haters. Do a search here on the subject if you have a free weekend sometime, it's very entertaining. The car holds close to 12 quarts of oil.
Old 01-26-2010, 03:51 PM
  #3  
PNine64
Pro
 
PNine64's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 748
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

No records, I'd do the valve job, trans fluid and get the wires off the exhaust. Then start picking away at the other things when you had time.
Old 01-26-2010, 04:43 PM
  #4  
Bearclaw
Three Wheelin'
 
Bearclaw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Seattle xburb - I can't see the Emerald City, but I know it's out there somewhere
Posts: 1,926
Received 5 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by ilko
The leak down numbers are pretty good for a car with that mileage. You are looking at a few grand in repairs/maintenance, so unless you're paying low teens for that car I'd walk away.

The oil question is a very personal preference, there are 2 camps - Mobil 1 lovers and Mobil 1 haters. Do a search here on the subject if you have a free weekend sometime, it's very entertaining. The car holds close to 12 quarts of oil.
You forgot the riders on the Brad-Pitt bandwagon.
Old 01-26-2010, 11:41 PM
  #5  
ian89C4
Pro
 
ian89C4's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Raeford, North Carolina
Posts: 510
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I personally have jumped on the brad-penn wagon......

The valves sound like they are a little loose. A valve job is not too hard to do, there are many posts on the subject.
The knock sensor you would have to pull the engine for as it is at the back (front) of the engine on the third cylinder if I remember right.
I would get the plug wires off of the exhaust. You could prabably use zip-ties for now until you can find some of the clips that attach to the valve covers.

If you like the car and you think you can do the repairs yourself go for it. If you are going to take it to a shop it will cost quite a bit.

I currently have my engine pulled on my 89 C4......and it is an adventure let me tell you (but fun)
Old 01-27-2010, 05:05 AM
  #6  
fogcity123
Advanced
Thread Starter
 
fogcity123's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thanks.
I just drove the car home. Yeah, 3k for the work the mech quoted - I might just go for it.
I'm going to change the oil and see what leaks before I take it in for work - the car drives amazingly smooth, it seems to me. Got it for just south of the teens.

Until I get the manual, can someone tell me the way to use the top (its a cab)? Is it just press the button until it goes all the way down (nothing to secure, unzip the rear window, etc) and press the button until its all the way up (nothing to lock, etc.)? Thanks.
Old 01-27-2010, 08:23 AM
  #7  
jimq
Burgled
Rennlist Member
 
jimq's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Altamonte Springs, Fl/Gwynns Island, Va.
Posts: 22,384
Received 14 Likes on 11 Posts
Default

you need to pull the emergency brake up a couple of clicks then hit the button to lower the top. You need to be stopped to do it and some require the motor to be off I believe.
Old 01-27-2010, 09:16 AM
  #8  
Rocket Rob
IHI KING!
Rennlist Member

 
Rocket Rob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Nashua, New Hampshire, USA
Posts: 13,386
Received 223 Likes on 177 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by fogcity123
Thanks.
Until I get the manual, can someone tell me the way to use the top (its a cab)? Is it just press the button until it goes all the way down (nothing to secure, unzip the rear window, etc) and press the button until its all the way up (nothing to lock, etc.)? Thanks.
Congrats on the new car. To operate the top, you need to have the engine off but the key in the run position (ignition on). Then press the switch and hold it until the sounds stop. It will automatically latch/unlatch the roof. No unzipping, or unlocking required.

Note: The owners manual has these instructions in it. They also warn you that if you are lowering the top when its below 30 degrees F, then you need to unzip the rear window first.

Old 01-27-2010, 10:55 AM
  #9  
jimq
Burgled
Rennlist Member
 
jimq's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Altamonte Springs, Fl/Gwynns Island, Va.
Posts: 22,384
Received 14 Likes on 11 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Rocket Rob
Congrats on the new car. To operate the top, you need to have the engine off but the key in the run position (ignition on).
Some of us lucky ones dont need to turn off the car. i actually can be moving when I lower mine if I just pull up one click on the emergency brake
Old 01-27-2010, 11:07 AM
  #10  
Rocket Rob
IHI KING!
Rennlist Member

 
Rocket Rob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Nashua, New Hampshire, USA
Posts: 13,386
Received 223 Likes on 177 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by jimq
Some of us lucky ones dont need to turn off the car. i actually can be moving when I lower mine if I just pull up one click on the emergency brake
Interesting, I wonder if there was a design change between the 90 and 91 models? I've tried moving my roof with the engine running and it doesn't let me.
Old 01-27-2010, 01:11 PM
  #11  
ian89C4
Pro
 
ian89C4's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Raeford, North Carolina
Posts: 510
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I remembermy '97 boxster was supposed to be stopped with the e-brake up to lower the top. I was also able to lower my top on the move with the e-brake up one click. I wonder if the porsche switches for their tops are uber-sensitive?? I doubt they have changed the switches much throughout the years.
Old 01-27-2010, 06:05 PM
  #12  
jimq
Burgled
Rennlist Member
 
jimq's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Altamonte Springs, Fl/Gwynns Island, Va.
Posts: 22,384
Received 14 Likes on 11 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Rocket Rob
Interesting, I wonder if there was a design change between the 90 and 91 models? I've tried moving my roof with the engine running and it doesn't let me.
I have read on here a while back about a mod you can do to the control unit. Mine was like that when I bought it. I always assumed it was normal until i read post on here.
Old 01-27-2010, 08:52 PM
  #13  
fogcity123
Advanced
Thread Starter
 
fogcity123's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thanks Guys.
Another question (I know - I need a manual). When ever I turn the key I hear a blower from the rear start and I have forced air coming through the vents. I have the **** on the climent control all that operates fan speed all the way counter clockwise and the 2 slide levers (I'm assuming temp selector) all the way to left. I can move both these controls in the opposite way to increase the forced air, but I can't seem to turn them all the way off. Am I missing something?
Thanks.
Old 01-27-2010, 11:43 PM
  #14  
ian89C4
Pro
 
ian89C4's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Raeford, North Carolina
Posts: 510
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

The blower in the back is your heater blower (technical term!!!) on the left side of the engine. That is normal as it is blowing air down on to your engine. I think mine has air that comes through the vents too on start up, something to do with the electronics behind the enviromental controls not having power until the car is on. I even get a little bit of air forced through the vents as I am driving with the fan set to zero. The two slide levers will put the air totally out the dash vents. The top control the defog and the bottom control the lower air. Play with them while the car is on and you can see what they change.

How is everything else with the car?
Old 01-28-2010, 03:52 AM
  #15  
fogcity123
Advanced
Thread Starter
 
fogcity123's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

i love these cars and all their peculiararities.
The car seems great - First day driving it. I'm going to take it in to the chap that did the PPI and have a major servicing and the front control arm bushings replaced (plus have him replace all the missing bolts he noticed and the cracked tranny mount). The service / warranty manual showed service done until the previous owner (and up until the last nine years - so figured I'd like to start right and get it back on shedule. I was worried about the dealer cleaning it up so much and "covering up" any leaks but after a night parked in my driveway, there was no oil spots noticed.

Its been 4 years since I've had a carrera - I forgot how fun and amazing these cars are.



Quick Reply: new to me 1990 C4 Cab



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 07:21 PM.