anto1150

Anyone tryed mounting original tie-rods upside down, probably bending them a little?
Alternatively, anyone made their own tie-rods using monoballs?

I would like to get to the solution without spendins >2k for the Evo stuff...

ciao

ilko

Raise ride height. It's the most economical solution

anto1150

I don't think anyone here would go that way...

race911

Uh, yeah. I'd rather drive a car within the proper range of its geometry, than have the cg oh-so-insignificantly lower. Old RSA #1 was at least 1/2" higher than any other I came across when racing; never felt I was compromising.

Now if you want to do it properly, hell yes the yellow car with all the Evo stuff on it is light years better.

roblav

Cut off and re-weld the stub axle assembly x.x inches higher. Otherwise, the roll center goes too low in the front.

anto1150

mmmmh... I don't trust weldings in the suspension/steering compartment... I would rather modify the tie-rods to make them work upside down

demonfish

i raised my car back up, handles sooo sweet now.

anto1150

race911,

the question is: "what's the car's proper range of geometry?" I guess mine (RS +5) is in the proper range, but still you have to carry a lot of toe-in (as specified from P.) to compensate (partially) from bump-divergence.
It's a simple matter of poor suspension design, but I can't believe you have to change everything to solve it. "Simple" lowering of the original tie-rods could be the answer... the challenge is HOW...

ciao

anto1150

at what height?

ciao

demonfish

i used to run RS + 10 and it was ace...

then rs - 10mm and it was nasty.

cant remember what its at now, have to dig out my geo sheets.

height on 18s

roblav

Anto - changing the location of the tie rods is not going to fix the bad effect of lowering these cars too much. Either the steering rack needs raised or the steering knuckle needs lowered. And that would only fix the roll steer problem. The other problem with lowering too much is that the front lower control arms will run at a funky angle pointing down towards the ground on the inboard sides. This has a major effect on the front roll center, which will now be too low, especially compared to the rear. The car will plow.

As to welding... I have not yet studied how the 964 front struts are made, but all my older 911's had the steering knuckle/hub/stub axle casting welded to the strut. Porsche did what I said to do on their earlier RSR struts.

race911

I've always run mine about where Demonfish has his as shown in the photo above. Works well enough for what the car is. And yes that considers a less-than-optimal overall design.

As far as the comment above about raising the steering knuckle ala a torsion bar car. Not the same at all as we know the whole thing is a cast unit, with a coilover strut bolted to the knuckle.

(It was sneaky back in the day though to raise and decamber spindles. I always found more benefit from the decamber as I never, even on those cars, ran them extraordinarily low since I couldn't afford to run slicks. And R compounds were in their infancy, only available in 13" and 14" sizes for the showroom stock cars we were actually wheel-to-wheel racing.)

roblav

Thanks for clarifying how the strut is made on these cars Ken. So I echo what others are saying here to not go too low.

anto1150

Sorry, but there is a little contraddiction... plus, isn't it what you get mounting the tie-rods upside down?.

roblav

Antonino - if you change the location of only one end of each tie rod (either inboard or outboard - up or down), then that might help with the roll steer issue with a very low car. It will not help with the too low roll center. Changing location of both ends of each tie rod will do nothing.