Removing C4 rear axles
11-11-2009, 10:42 PM
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Removing C4 rear axles
Well, my right rear outer CV boot decided to split the other day and sling grease all over the inside of my wheel, so I decided that it would be a good idea to replace all four of the back CV boots.....
How I did it:
I decided to remove both axles from the car so that I could have them cleaned in case there was any debri inside. This makes things a little more complicated as you have to remove the axle nut which is torqued down to 340 lbs from the factory. I was able to remove them using a sliding t-bar and a 1-1/4 inch axle nut socket. I could not find a 32mm socket that could fit a 3/4 inch wrench, but the 1-1/4 inch was a perfect fit. Since I was turning the hub even with my wife stepping on the brakes I had to have the car running so that the brake booster kicked in. From there I heated the nut with a propane torch for 30 seconds and then used my floor jack to push up on the T-bar. That worked rather well and after about 2-3 pushes with the jack they became pretty easy to turn.
I then moved under the car to loosen up the hex bolts holding the axles on to the transmission. You will have to remove the heat sensor on the right side of the car in order to get to the bolts, and there is a bracket used to support the engine pan on the left side that will also have to be removed. Once these are removed it will also be easier if you cut off the inner CV boot so that you can more easily position the allen wrench on the bolts.
On that note, I used a 6mm allen wrench and a piece of pipe as a lever to break the bolts free. You will have to put the e-brake on to provide enough resistance while braking the bolts free. Once the bolts are free the inner side of the axle will fall down with a little bit of wiggling.
To remove the axle from the hub you will need a wratched extender and a hammer. place the extender on the outer end of the axle and tap it out until you feel it pop free. I had to pull my e-brake cable out of the way to allow the axle to completely come free.
Once out I cleaned up the axle a little bit as there was grease every-where. I removed the inner plate from the CV joint exposing the inner joint. There is a little clip on the axle that holding the Joint on the axle which are easily removed using circlip pliers (can find at AutoZone, no affiliation). My CV joints seemed to have been pressed on there as they did not come off. From that point I decided to let my mechanic remove them when he cleans them.
Right now they are at the P-car shop awaiting cleaning. I found a kit on Pelican Parts (no affiliation) for around $10 that contains a new boot, clamps, grease, circlips, and end plate. I am also having my mechanic put the new ones on as you have to have the inner CV joint off to get the boots on. Over all not a really hard job, just have the right tools when you start, it will save you lots of time (ask me how I know).
I will post more pics when I get them back.
How I did it:
I decided to remove both axles from the car so that I could have them cleaned in case there was any debri inside. This makes things a little more complicated as you have to remove the axle nut which is torqued down to 340 lbs from the factory. I was able to remove them using a sliding t-bar and a 1-1/4 inch axle nut socket. I could not find a 32mm socket that could fit a 3/4 inch wrench, but the 1-1/4 inch was a perfect fit. Since I was turning the hub even with my wife stepping on the brakes I had to have the car running so that the brake booster kicked in. From there I heated the nut with a propane torch for 30 seconds and then used my floor jack to push up on the T-bar. That worked rather well and after about 2-3 pushes with the jack they became pretty easy to turn.
I then moved under the car to loosen up the hex bolts holding the axles on to the transmission. You will have to remove the heat sensor on the right side of the car in order to get to the bolts, and there is a bracket used to support the engine pan on the left side that will also have to be removed. Once these are removed it will also be easier if you cut off the inner CV boot so that you can more easily position the allen wrench on the bolts.
On that note, I used a 6mm allen wrench and a piece of pipe as a lever to break the bolts free. You will have to put the e-brake on to provide enough resistance while braking the bolts free. Once the bolts are free the inner side of the axle will fall down with a little bit of wiggling.
To remove the axle from the hub you will need a wratched extender and a hammer. place the extender on the outer end of the axle and tap it out until you feel it pop free. I had to pull my e-brake cable out of the way to allow the axle to completely come free.
Once out I cleaned up the axle a little bit as there was grease every-where. I removed the inner plate from the CV joint exposing the inner joint. There is a little clip on the axle that holding the Joint on the axle which are easily removed using circlip pliers (can find at AutoZone, no affiliation). My CV joints seemed to have been pressed on there as they did not come off. From that point I decided to let my mechanic remove them when he cleans them.
Right now they are at the P-car shop awaiting cleaning. I found a kit on Pelican Parts (no affiliation) for around $10 that contains a new boot, clamps, grease, circlips, and end plate. I am also having my mechanic put the new ones on as you have to have the inner CV joint off to get the boots on. Over all not a really hard job, just have the right tools when you start, it will save you lots of time (ask me how I know).
I will post more pics when I get them back.
