rcarpen22

Hi all. I searched and read about 20 oil leak threads but didn't find exactly what I was looking for. I am about to adjust the valves on a '90 C2 and I'm ordering parts. Obviously, I will get valve cover gaskets but what other gaskets/seals should I go ahead and buy to replace while I have access. I'm just looking for the low hanging fruit so I'll have the parts on hand. Specific leak issues can be addressed later.
Thanks

elbeee964

-save figuring out what you need & buy the valve-setting parts kit
-special gap measuring tool,
-some extra little cam cover spark wire clips (if existing are broken)
-oil filter + oil (+ 2 crush seals)
(DOH!)
Edit
-new spark plugs/rotors/caps - but, of course!

...ummm...
-new 02 sensor?
-cat bolts + gasket? (though they're probably already in your valve-setting kit)
-little "in-lb" torque wrench?

Rocket Rob

+1 to Lonnie's list.

You may want to check the condition of your spark plugs, cap and rotor, wires

rcarpen22

Great, thanks! What's the best place to get the parts kit? I was planning on getting the special feeler gauge and extra blades, but if it all comes in a kit, that's a winner.

Rocket Rob

There are many "favorite" sources. I purchased mine from EBS Racing. The valve adjustment kit came with the valve cover gaskets, catalytic converter gasket and bolts. The feeler gauge, oil filter and drain plug crush washers are separate.

Others prefer Pelican or Sunset.

No affiliations.

Edit: One more helpful thing to have is Adrian's book. It describes the procedure very well. If you don't have it, its a great resource for this and many other projects.

rcarpen22

Thanks!
PS, the silhouette graphic in your sig is awesome. I watched the spoiler go up and down like 5 times.

altarchsa

Oil leaks could be coming from several sources:

Could be damaged or warped valve/cam covers. A 25 cent size area just disintegrated on one of mine. If in good shape, have them planed at a machine shop while they're off. Well worth the cost! Some guys here have used a sheet of glass and wet/dry sandpaper. Spend the $ with the machinist. Or go for a set of billet aluminum (like those I just ordered from Tarret). In either case, follow torque recommendations (i.e. use a torque wrench! - calibrated to the recommended low torque setting for these small nuts). Uneven or overtightening will make them leak. And no RTV sealant! Just coat with silicone paste to allow the seals to move with expansion/contraction.

Oil can also come past the rocker shafts into the areas that are not covered by the valve/cam covers. Installing the racing o-rings in the grooves on the ends of the shafts will stop this. Depending on who installed them, it might not be impossible to remove the shafts and install these rings with the motor in, just nearly impossible + some luck in the orientation of the rocker shaft pinch bolt small ends. If they all face the accessible openings, it could be done. i probably wouldn't try it.

Finally, if a pre 11/90 car, you might not have the head gasket update (mine hasn't) and could be getting some leaks between the heads and cylinders (mine have never leaked through three rebuilds). I think this is just a wet-to-touch type leak though, not a dripping wet leak.

Gopd luck.