Rear Brake DIY!
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Rear Brake DIY!
I'm currently changing the brakes on my 1994 C2 and thought I'd share the experience since I haven't seen the nitty gritty covered here in my searches.
An apology first, when I'm working on my car I prefer not to stop and take pics and then start up again so no pics.
1. Once you remove the wheels using a screwdriver slowly and carefully pry up the clip holding the brake line on the rear wheel carrier. This will allow the brake line to move somewhat freely once the caliper is removed.
2. Loosen the cover on the brake fluid reservoir. This will help facilitate compressing the brake cylinders later.
3. A 1/2" breaker bar is probably the easiest to use to crack the 10mm bolts holding the caliper. The top one is easily accessible however the bottom one will need a long 10mm allen socket. Mine was a 1/2 drive socket and fairly robust so cracking the bolt was fairly easy. Found mine on Ebay for less than $15. I strongly suggest in this situation to use the right too for the right job.
4. You may need to press the brake pads back a little if the rotor is grooved to allow the caliper to move out and away from the rotor.
5. Now here's the interesting thing. There are two holes in the rotor with threads in them to help facilitate the removal of the rotor. Find the appropriate size bolt and screw it in. The rotor will move out a bit. Then screw the bolt into the other hole and the rotor will back out just a bit more. By this time you'll find that the rotor can be pulled out if you wiggle it a bit.
6. On the reinstall when you're sliding the new rotor on you'll find that it'll stop about 1/4" from fitting flush. I thought something was in the way. NO! Apparently Porsche designed the rotor to fit perfectly and centered using the hub so push a little and it should be be snugged in there a bit. Once this is done take the two securing screws (the ones you removed previously) and screw them in. Each screw will take the rotor in bit by bit until the rotor is completely flush with the hub.
That's as far as I got for now. I'll follow up with more later.
An apology first, when I'm working on my car I prefer not to stop and take pics and then start up again so no pics.
1. Once you remove the wheels using a screwdriver slowly and carefully pry up the clip holding the brake line on the rear wheel carrier. This will allow the brake line to move somewhat freely once the caliper is removed.
2. Loosen the cover on the brake fluid reservoir. This will help facilitate compressing the brake cylinders later.
3. A 1/2" breaker bar is probably the easiest to use to crack the 10mm bolts holding the caliper. The top one is easily accessible however the bottom one will need a long 10mm allen socket. Mine was a 1/2 drive socket and fairly robust so cracking the bolt was fairly easy. Found mine on Ebay for less than $15. I strongly suggest in this situation to use the right too for the right job.
4. You may need to press the brake pads back a little if the rotor is grooved to allow the caliper to move out and away from the rotor.
5. Now here's the interesting thing. There are two holes in the rotor with threads in them to help facilitate the removal of the rotor. Find the appropriate size bolt and screw it in. The rotor will move out a bit. Then screw the bolt into the other hole and the rotor will back out just a bit more. By this time you'll find that the rotor can be pulled out if you wiggle it a bit.
6. On the reinstall when you're sliding the new rotor on you'll find that it'll stop about 1/4" from fitting flush. I thought something was in the way. NO! Apparently Porsche designed the rotor to fit perfectly and centered using the hub so push a little and it should be be snugged in there a bit. Once this is done take the two securing screws (the ones you removed previously) and screw them in. Each screw will take the rotor in bit by bit until the rotor is completely flush with the hub.
That's as far as I got for now. I'll follow up with more later.
Last edited by reynwerkes; 08-22-2009 at 03:23 AM.
#4
Burgled
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
#5
I picked up a set of the extra long 1/2" drive hex sockets at Harbor Freight Tools. The complete set was only about $13 and they worked great. I was a little convened about being from Harbor Freight, but they were well built and did a great job, especailly considering how much leverage you have to apply to get both bolts loose.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94534
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94534
#6
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Dec 2003
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Gotta love that lower rear caliper bolt ! Always about a million foot pounds from the factory.
Last time I did mine i used anti seize and didn't torque it too tight, but a year or so later I pulled the rear rotors and that lower bolt was really tight again !
Last time I did mine i used anti seize and didn't torque it too tight, but a year or so later I pulled the rear rotors and that lower bolt was really tight again !
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#8
Instructor
Thread Starter
However, I'd strongly suggest using a breaker bar first or you'll be frustrating yourself trying to get the bolt started. You can't really work on brakes without a breaker bar. Unless you're the HULK!
#9
Instructor
Thread Starter
Nothing else to report back on the install other than I used a bit of anti seize on the brake hose clip when putting it back on.
Oh, one more thing, I didn't reinstall the brake sensors, just tied them out of the way. To me, just a hassle trying to reinstall them.
Oh, one more thing, I didn't reinstall the brake sensors, just tied them out of the way. To me, just a hassle trying to reinstall them.
#10
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I picked up a set of the extra long 1/2" drive hex sockets at Harbor Freight Tools. The complete set was only about $13 and they worked great. I was a little convened about being from Harbor Freight, but they were well built and did a great job, especailly considering how much leverage you have to apply to get both bolts loose.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94534
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94534
Thanks
#11
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#12
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I'd buy it but the shipper wants $22.50 for shipping... I'll probably just buy a bit and cut it... as long as it works doesn't have to be fancy.
#13
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