Hello there,

I've had a good search but with no success, hope someone can point me in the right direction?
The problem is with driver's door (LHD), I have a toad alarm fitted, no problems with this, on the car for over six years.
But recently when I have tried remote locking, the drivers door lock will try to lock but bounce back up and the last few days will only unlock intermittently it will open manually with the key but will not lock with the key.
The only way to lock the drivers door is manually from inside turning the **** inside.

Hope someone can help?

Kind regards,
Viv.

 

Don't think this will help directly, but because the RHD cars use the same locking set-up as the LHD cars, if there is no power to the locks i.e battery disconnected for wrenching, you have to lock the drivers door from inside first, then lock the passnger door with the key. Entry is in reverse. Is the issue then power related? No power to the door locks? Relay/fuse?

 

Don't think it's a power problem because the locks try to close on both sides but just bounce back.

 

I 've had exactly this problem also a few weeks ago.

After replacing the microswitch at the door lock (which normally plays a certain role in this problem....) the problem was not solved.
(I found the microswitch thing with the "Search" option...)

Turned out to be only something simple as the turning **** inside at the door panel.
Apparently with this low temperatures the plastic liner behind the door panel shrinked a bit but enough to rub against the turning **** and the metal shafts.

Take a seat in your car and close the door; now try to lock the door from the inside by hand. If you notice that it is difficult to turn the **** then it must be the above mentioned cause.

I cut away some of the plastic liner around the **** and the metal shafts and that did the trick... This was a 15 minute job; replacing the microswitch was 3 hour job...
So look at the **** first...

Good luck,

Dick964

 

Mine does that too. The **** is not quite aligned (~2mm off) with the hole on the door trim so when you turn the key the **** pushes against the trim rather than popping up.

Looks like it will be an easy and cheap fix.

 

Thanks for your input guy's, but unfortunately it is not the cause of the problem can anyone else offer some advice?.

 

See if this is any help.

Dave

 

Yep, that's the solution I wrote about above. Spray WD40 also !
Good text and nice pictures.

 

Sounds like similar problems I had a couple of weeks ago. In particular, when I unlocked I could hear the locks working but bounced back down. I had to use the key to unlock. It was simply caused by the battery being low on charge. Charged it up overnight (full charger not a trickle charger) and the problem was solved.

 

Thanks guy's, will try the lubrication method, but the mechanism feels the same on both doors not overly stiff, think the problem could be the micro-switch or actuator, any advice on testing these elements before I go down the expensive route of replacement?, I'll try a full strip down and lubricate everything and get back to you with my findings.

Kind regards,
Viv.

 

May be worth trying Boxsey's advice and check the battery power before you spend money that may be un-neccessary.

 

Checked the battery out, no problems there.
Kind regards,
Viv.

 

Just so I understand the problem, with the remote the Driver's door unlocks after locking, what does the passenger door do, does it unlock too?

And, with the key the door just doesn't lock at all? No movement of the **** or anything?

 

DSD intermittent fault, if it fails to open with remote will open with key.
PSD always opens with remote.
If fail to lock with remote will not lock with key, then gain access from PSD and lock manually from inside.
**** always tries to move.
Regards,
Viv.