Dick964

Hello,

Since the steel plates in my 964 brake calipers moved up by corrosion I want to replace them. They are bolted in the caliper body and those tiny bolts are a P.I.T.A. to remove
I think the bolts were put in with Locktite (or something like that).

Does anyone have any tips/trics how to remove these bolts in a safe and easy way ?? I do not want to break one in the caliper....
I was thinking of heating up but I'm afraid that the heat will damage the calipers.

Thanks in advance.

Dick964

DAVISRILEY

https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...=Spring+plates will give you a bit of info. Basically you need to get the screws pretty hot to break the bond of the loctite. Then get them off, clean the area that is corroded, replace plates, and you are okay for a while. Good luck.

boxsey911

I presume you have the calipers off the car because it would be nigh on impossible to do this job anywhere except on a workbench.

I didn't have anything that would get the bolts hot enough so I used the cold chisel method. Use a dremmel tool to cut a couple of slots in the head of each bolt and then work them out with a 10 mm chisel. Once you get the knack they come out pretty easy.

LouZ

There are 2 types of screw heads, Torx and Allen (Torx are more common). I recommend highly buying new screws (with the locktite already on them) because you WILL destroy the heads of at least half!

As for heat, I tried propane and MAPP from my home torch and they did nothing. What finally worked for me was heating the screw with acytelene until cherry hot, removing the heat for 10 to 15 seconds, heating till red, waiting, then heating again till red, then finally getting in there with the Torx and breaking it loose. Once loose, you can unscrew them with your fingers, that is, AFTER they cool down.

The reason for the heat/cool cycle is to allow the heat to travel down the shaft of the screw to break the Loctite bond, while not overheating the surrounding surface.

Good luck.

Dick964

Update:

Heated the bolts for a long time.... nothing happened

I have the old type Allen screws: zero grip... New type are indeed Torx and they are still waiting patiently to get in.

Any other tips/trics/hints to loose this @#$& screws ??

Thanks in advance,

Dick964

warmfuzzies

hAMMER AND CHISEL, PUT INDENT IN EDGE OF SCREW, AND THEN HAMMER AND FLAT CHISEL TO ROTATE THEM, IT'S HOW i REMOVED MINE.

kEVIN

Oh, I left the caps lock on....still looks funny....

Indycam

"I have the old type Allen screws: zero grip..."
Silver solider / braze the tool to the screw head ?

amr89c4

I just completed the rebuild of all 4 of my calipers and like everyone else ran into trouble with the allen head screws. Half came out with no heat and actually no problem, the other half did not.

I only had propane and couldn't get the heads hot enough. I used a sharp chisel as others did, and while slow, they all came out.

Dick964 ....I'd like to know where you ordered the new Torx screws from. I looked up the new screws from Porsche, but according to PET they are only available with new wear plates.

I cleaned the holes and threads, found some oval head slotted screws at the hardware store and BLUE Loctited them in. I'd like to go back with Torx at the next pad swap.

demonfish

i'm going to take mine off and send them to Boxsey, i've heard he loves doing them...

Dick964

The new Torx screws came indeed with the new plates.
I ordered new plates because I was thinking in that time that I would damage them anyway.
But in practice it looks like they will not be harmed in this operation... (huh, we'll see about that later on of course ).

About ordering Torx screws: Here in Europe it is quit a common used screw.
For example a Saab is merely put together with Torx screws.
Maybe a Saab dealer/specialist near you have the right Torx which you can use in your calipers.

Update: still none of them moved...

Low 964

Started on mine today....exactly how do you chisel them out?...I have allen and was worried about snapping them, to get them hot I assume you need to strip the caliper of all the rubber bits.
Where does the corrosion occur?
I assume the plates dont corrode, if not do they need replacing?

My pistons measure 30/26 is that wrong..
Where is the best place to buy the service bits in Uk for the calipers and what bits should I replace???
Where do I get the bias doobry...

demonfish

the caliper corrodes underneath the plate, which forces the plate up...

Low 964

But the plate I assume is ok unless it bends against the screws...

Any way dont.....go into garage at 9.10pm(now) and think I know I will hold the allen key in with fingers, then quickly whack it with a hammer to suprise the locktite....I just did and hit my finger instead, blood all over caliper now.

Need a beer.!!

LouZ

Red calipers will look good on your car!

LouZ

Another way, if you want to take the risk, is to grind down the outside circumference of the screw until the spring plate is released. Then, with the spring plate out of the way, you can grasp the exposed part of the screw with a locking pliers and twist the screw out.

Like I pointed out in my earlier post, propane, butane, MAPP gas just don't produce enough pinpoint heat to be effective. Get acetylene, and your life will be a lot easier.