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Remove distributor cap screws - warm or cold?

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Old 01-03-2009, 07:23 PM
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suezen
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Default Remove distributor cap screws - warm or cold?

I have with great interest read through all the treads about distributor belts, testing the ignition system etc. and I have come to the conclusion that I need to change my distributor caps because of a bit uneven running when only the primary ignition system is active.

I am currently in the process of replacing distributor caps and have of course run in to the same problem as some of you, that the screws holding the distributor caps are difficult to unscrew. I will try all the methods suggested but I am also wondering if the temperature of the engine, i.e if the temperature of the distributor housing makes any difference due to material differences of the screw compared to the housing. I live in Sweden where it is currently winter, meaning that I can give it a try at any temperature between a couple of minus degees Celcius (around 32 F) up to fully warmed engine.

Does anyone of you think a high or low temperature would be easier?
Old 01-03-2009, 07:39 PM
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demonfish
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i tried everything, in the end i had to break the caps off, and use mole grips to release the last screw.

When i fitted the new ones, i made sure i coppaslipped them so i would not have the same problem!
Old 01-03-2009, 08:29 PM
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elbeee964
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No problems, here, in VA. And no special tools, other than large screw driver.
Good luck.
Old 01-03-2009, 09:07 PM
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68CGPlt
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I removed mine the other day and it was 32 degrees F outside with a cold engine. I didn't have any problems. A few screws had more corrosion on them then I would care to see. You might try some penetrating oil and let it sit for a few hours prior to attempting to loosen it again.

Suezen: You noted that you've had some uneven running. I pulled my caps do to some starting issues and an intermittent undervoltage condition that I've recently been experiencing (headlights dimming, ABS and PDAS lights illuminated while driving). I didn't have any caps and rotors on hand, however a good cleaning of all the contacts has alleviated the condition. I'll definitely replace them in the near future, however I think they still have some life left in them. Good luck!

Last edited by 68CGPlt; 01-03-2009 at 09:13 PM. Reason: more info
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Old 01-03-2009, 11:32 PM
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Scotty964cab
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I'm changing my rotors and caps in the morning and I'm going to attemp the belt. I've not done a cap and rotor since my '74 VW super beetle. My car has a faint miss around 4800 through 5300 rpms. The wires look good. I installed a vent kit two days ago and was happy with the project. I need to know the easiest way to do the belt for the distributor, it sounds complicated and I don't want to down the car.
Old 01-04-2009, 12:15 AM
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dfinnegan
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I need to know the easiest way to do the belt for the distributor, it sounds complicated and I don't want to down the car.
distributor belt replacement

p-car.com

Note that you do not have to remove the secondary shaft. Just drift the pin enough to separate the housing and slide the belt out. This is explained in one of the links above.

Good luck.
Old 01-04-2009, 09:13 PM
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Scotty964cab
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THanks, I did the caps and rotors today, and what a difference. I picked up a whole lot upper end. I'll get to the belt when I undertstand the remoal process better and I build up some courage. thanks for your help!
Old 01-04-2009, 09:33 PM
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68CGPlt
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Scotty964,

I'm just down the road from you in Mays Landing. PM me if your interested in a drive or maintenance assistance. Sorry for the off-topic, now back to the thread.

Matt



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