Alarm/Locking System Information
12-05-2008, 12:56 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Alarm/Locking System Information
As some as you may remember, I recently posted about having major issues with my door locks. The would unlock right after locking. Thanks to DFINNEGAN and his Hammer my problem has been resolved. I will cover this later, but now I would like to impart all I have learned and figured out about the 91+ locking/alarm system. I pieced all of this together from other posts, wiring diagrams and the mechanical linkages.
None of this may be unique, but I thought if I put everything together into one post it may make it easier for others to solve their locking problems. It is interesting how the mechanical and electronic pieces work together.
Now, on to my problem for a moment. Just prior to having my lock unlock problem I installed a keyless remote. Which I set up to blink the lights during locking and unlocking. Also, my battery started to fail and it seems that when I went to lock the car with the remote the drain on the battery was enough to cause the alarm to believe it wasn’t receiving power and it generated an alarm fault. This fault caused the alarm to fault every alarm sensor in the car. Even after I replaced the battery my lock unlock problem continued. From what DFINNEGAN and I can surmise, once you have these kinds of faults the controller will not allow the car to lock and arm until the problem is solved and the faults cleared from the controller. Once the faults were cleared by the Hammer everything worked perfectly.
I hope this will help people with their door locking/alarm problems.
None of this may be unique, but I thought if I put everything together into one post it may make it easier for others to solve their locking problems. It is interesting how the mechanical and electronic pieces work together.
1) The locking and alarm system controller is all housed in one module under the passenger seat (928 618 260.00). There is newer controller (.03). I don’t know what was fixed, but I know it's available.
2) There are two sets of microswitches which work with the locks and alarm.
4) Both door locks are controlled as one, which means the controller doesn’t have the ability to sense each lock independently. Or, to discern which door could be causing a problem.
5) The console lock button sends a signal to the controller for lock or unlock (this is a toggle from the current state only) and will light the lock button appropriately if the engine is running. If the engine isn’t running, then the button will only lock the doors. This will work even if the passenger door (not the driver’s door) is open. If only one door is locked the light will be lit if the engine is running (this can assist in diagnosing an actuator microswitch problem).
6) If you unlock one side manually with the turn **** on the door, it will unlock the other door by the controller sensing the lock actuator on that door going to unlocked and then sending a signal to the actuators to unlock. Both doors get the unlock signal, even though one door is already unlocked at that point.
7) If you are having a problem with the locking system, turning the key to the lock position three times quickly will lock the doors if possible and arm the alarm. The LEDs will double blink stating the alarm is armed with at least one sensor switch grounded (not armed).
8) The LEDs are directly controlled by the controller and lit via an inductive circuit.
9) As a security precaution, the driver’s side door cannot be locked manually when open.
10) The microswitch on the lock cylinder can be replaced if it fails, but the microswitch in the actuators cannot be replaced independent of replacing the actuator itself (as far as I know).
There may be other noteworthy items which I can’t remember at the moment. If something else comes to mine, I will update the above.2) There are two sets of microswitches which work with the locks and alarm.
a. The first set is part of the key cylinder and its only purpose is to sense key turns (lock and unlock). When you turn the key to lock the door, the key manually turns the linkages to lock the door and sends a prime alarm signal to the controller. The manual part is a race condition with the electronic part, the electronic part sends a signal to prime the alarm which in turn sends a signal to the actuators to lock the doors. The alarm then senses each alarm sensor switch (the glove box for example) to see if it can arm the alarm successfully. If any alarm sensor switch is grounded it won’t arm that sensor switch and the LEDs will double blink. The manual part moves the linkages which lowers the LED lock button and the actuator to lock the door. Whether the electronic or manual process prevails in locking that door seems to be dependent on when the microswitch activates in the key turning process. Just to be noted, the unlock process works in the same way except that it unlocks the door and umprimes the alarm.
b. The second set of microswitches are integrated into the locking actuators. It senses whether the door is locked or not. It continually provides a status (locked/unlocked) signal to the controller. For example, if the key locking phase is underway and the controller is arming the alarm and it senses a door as unlocked, it will not arm the alarm and will send an unlock signal to the actuators. This could occur if the actuator is out of alignment.
3) Only a key turn will lock/arm or unlock/disarm the locks and alarm. The controller knows the status of the car (running or not) and what is requesting the lock/unlock process to decide what to ultimately do.4) Both door locks are controlled as one, which means the controller doesn’t have the ability to sense each lock independently. Or, to discern which door could be causing a problem.
5) The console lock button sends a signal to the controller for lock or unlock (this is a toggle from the current state only) and will light the lock button appropriately if the engine is running. If the engine isn’t running, then the button will only lock the doors. This will work even if the passenger door (not the driver’s door) is open. If only one door is locked the light will be lit if the engine is running (this can assist in diagnosing an actuator microswitch problem).
6) If you unlock one side manually with the turn **** on the door, it will unlock the other door by the controller sensing the lock actuator on that door going to unlocked and then sending a signal to the actuators to unlock. Both doors get the unlock signal, even though one door is already unlocked at that point.
7) If you are having a problem with the locking system, turning the key to the lock position three times quickly will lock the doors if possible and arm the alarm. The LEDs will double blink stating the alarm is armed with at least one sensor switch grounded (not armed).
8) The LEDs are directly controlled by the controller and lit via an inductive circuit.
9) As a security precaution, the driver’s side door cannot be locked manually when open.
10) The microswitch on the lock cylinder can be replaced if it fails, but the microswitch in the actuators cannot be replaced independent of replacing the actuator itself (as far as I know).
Now, on to my problem for a moment. Just prior to having my lock unlock problem I installed a keyless remote. Which I set up to blink the lights during locking and unlocking. Also, my battery started to fail and it seems that when I went to lock the car with the remote the drain on the battery was enough to cause the alarm to believe it wasn’t receiving power and it generated an alarm fault. This fault caused the alarm to fault every alarm sensor in the car. Even after I replaced the battery my lock unlock problem continued. From what DFINNEGAN and I can surmise, once you have these kinds of faults the controller will not allow the car to lock and arm until the problem is solved and the faults cleared from the controller. Once the faults were cleared by the Hammer everything worked perfectly.
I hope this will help people with their door locking/alarm problems.
12-05-2008, 03:13 PM
#3
Professor of Pending Projects
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
12-21-2008, 01:43 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
I found this very helpful as I can only lock my drivers side door (though I'm in Ireland my car is LH drive) and when I try to open the door the lock tries to open (there is resistance) but the alarm is set off....so I then have to go and unlock via the passenger door.
I'm thinking of changing the microswitch as I had both doors apart today and found the drivers side lock barrel had some balck goo over the wiring...but I cannot find the microswitch on pelican parts...can anyone help.....with where I can get the microswitch or ideas as to why this is the reverse of most peoples problems !?
I'm thinking of changing the microswitch as I had both doors apart today and found the drivers side lock barrel had some balck goo over the wiring...but I cannot find the microswitch on pelican parts...can anyone help.....with where I can get the microswitch or ideas as to why this is the reverse of most peoples problems !?
