CraigyB

My passenger side window won't lower, and after using Marc Shaw's excellent guide to removing the door panels, think I understand the cause.
Now I have to figure out how to best fix the problem..
The guides which the window moves up and down in are gripping the glass too much, so when the mechanism lowers, it leaves the glass behind.

Tried putting some grease into the runners, but they are very hard to get at.

I saw on the forum that someone had glued the glass into the lifter. I don't like that, but I'm sure I can use something the give the lifter more grip on the window, though I'd prefer the glass to run up and down a little easier.
Incidentally it isn't too difficult to move by hand, so no major obstructions in there, just sticky.

Does anyone have any tips for getting to the runners? Or how to free them up?

jneteler

Are you sure its a mechanical and not an electrical issue?

I thought I had to replace one of the window motors a few weeks back but them someone gave me this tip:

No need for door disassembly, just give the door a sharp whack with the palm of your hand near the motor location while holding the switch in the down position. Worked like a charm; no further problems... yet!

Regards,

JNeteler

boxsey911

There's a big hole in the top left corner of the door. Just below that there is an allen bolt that allows you to adjust the angle of the window mech. I found that a small adjustment of that (slide it up or down) stopped my window from sticking in the frame.

ETA - there's a couple of other bolts that hold the mech aswell. There's no adjustment on these but might need to loosen them when adjusting above.

Indycam

It might be the old rubber and channel problem .
When the rubber and or channel gets old , it gives up its grip on the glass .
My channel got old and weak , I replaced it and all was well again .
A few others on this forum have had the same problem .

CraigyB

absolutely 100% sure it's mechanical.

The window sticks with the mechanism completely disconnected.

Any tips to actually get at the channels, or do I just need a triple jointed wrist?

demonfish

halfords sell some vinyl and rubber spray lube which helped with mine...

ianellison

Hi Craig

Is there any possibility of using WD40 with a long thin flexible tube (it comes with a 6" tube) attached which you could get in position at the top of the runners to lubricate??

ianellison

Hi Craig

Adrian Streathers trouble shooting on this reads:

''Either Power Window Failed

Switch failed. Switches pull out very easily so they can be interchanged.
Drive Motor failed.
Mechanical drive failed. If mechanical section is jammed, release it. In vehicle tool kit, find brace with Torx bit in end. Remove top speaker in affected door. Punch small hole through plastic sheeting in door. Insert brace and bit into Torx head bolt which can be seen through the hole. Wind window up or down. Check electrical function again.''

Any use?

CraigyB

I have his book aswell, and never thought to pick it up!

Will have another go at the weekend

Computamedic

Craig,

As already mentioned, the problem is very common and is really very little to do with the "stickiness" of the glass in the channels and much more to do with the attachment of the glass to the lifter mechanism. Again, as had already been said, as the mechanism ages the metal part rusts and loses it's tension and hence releasing it's grip on the rubber packing and glass. There are only two solutions - one is to buy a new lifter mechanism (both metal and rubber parts) and the other is to more permanently attach the glass to the lifter. Both of mine failed some time ago and both were repaired using some Sikaflex - a rubberised body adhesive - to attach the glass and lifter. In the two years or more since then I have had no trouble at all.

Hope that helps.

Dave

CraigyB

Hi Dave, thanks for the clarity. that's just what I'm going to do. Thanks everybody for the help!