Wachuko

Are you also changing plugs? Might as well do so while you are there... rotors and caps?

(You see, now I know why I get in trouble everytime I start changing just one bolt... ...and little by little it turns into a 3 month project.)

jsacrey

Yes, while I have it all apart, I'm going to change the rotors, distributor caps, spark plugs, oil, air filter, transmission lube, front differential lube and flush the clutch slave cylinder again. I've already done the tranny, brake line and clutch slave, but the slave seem a bit notchy so I'm going to do it again. Also going to do the transmission again after the nasty batch of crap that came out of it on the first try!

bpras@msn.com

The little clips that hold the plug wires on the lower valve covers are probably broken, you might want to have some extras. They are about the most inexpensive part you will buy for your car.......ever.

elbeee964

+1 Good call.

They're about 50-75 cents each, all the same part number. Held in by torx head bolts. I had to replace 3 that were broken.

Remember there are different left and right side mounting placements of these little clips on the lower valve covers.

(The covers themselves, strictly speaking, are interchangeable. My previous wrench moronically swapped left for right, last time. So, since that time till just recently, I've had leak-tight lower valve covers -- but spark wire clips that were aligned with none of the wires they were supposed to be holding! )

Alan G.

Like he says. The funky angles that you wind up getting access make it tough to get a good feel. An extra blade or two is also a good idea, especially if you are doing it with the engine in the car.

RandyF

I plan on adjusting the valves on my 90 C2 early next year, so I was happy to see this thread.
I've adjusted the valves on my SC before, so I have the basic concept down. But it looks a lot tighter on a C2! I found Wachuko's thread in this forum on changing plugs to be helpful as well.

One thing I see on the bottom of my engine is how the side covers for the tray really block access. I ready Jaime's note: "I started by removing the covers on the sides of the engine (since I do not have the tray installed reaching these covers is fast and easy)". Is there any practical reason to keep those side covers on once you've made the decision to take the tray off? I mean, do they provide any necessary heat protection, etc., or can I just leave them off? My motivation is to provide the easiest access to my engine possible and keep it cool in the hot dry climate I live in.

garrett376

I recommend you spend the $130 or so and just replace your clutch slave cylinder. It's not that expensive and they do wear out, and sounds like you've already tried to bleed it with no satisfaction. And since you're down and dirty, may as well get it all done so you can spend time enjoying it after such a big service.

If you're careful, one blade should be fine... I've had the same single blade for almost 14 years (and yes, it was used several times per year)! Probably because I open up the valve adjuster to easily slide it in, then tighten it in the gap. Seems to me you mess up the tool if you try to get it into the gap when it's tight, not pulling it out.

jim_l

Right i forgot about the Cat mine separated at the flange trying to get it off, so after cutting and drilling out the bolts. i had to buy a used cat from someone off ren.

Wachuko

+1 on the slave... also replace the hose... I just replaced mine, old one was nasty and deteriorated.

Hey! I did say it was my first time! First time adjusting valves, first time doing anything on a 911...

elbeee964

side encapsulation tins and heat:
I always thought it was cool of Porsche to design in those side tins. (no pun)

Subjecting the top of the engine each run to a post-run heat bake via exhaust convection can't be good for topside rubber, phenolics, and other "modern miracle" materials. (More comfortable to work on while warm, too!)