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Oil leak after oil change.

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Old 10-29-2008, 05:58 PM
  #16  
frankvan
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jaime,
i need to replace that line too. It's leaking mostly at the oil filter housing end. That end, with the two nuts, is rusted solid and I can't get it apart to replace the aluminum washer thats probably also corroded (which is probably the source of the leak). It's a messy leak too because it runs down the line and drips all over the muffler (nice smoke cloud when you stop after a spirited run!) plus it drips onto the ground as well.

Is no. 48 the washer in question? And would the new line come with nut no. 49 attached to it or is it a seperate order item.
Old 10-29-2008, 06:51 PM
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Rocket Rob
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Number 49 is not a nut. Its an adapter that connects the oil line to the oil filter housing. It must be purchased separately.
Old 10-29-2008, 07:00 PM
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Wachuko
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Originally Posted by frankvan
jaime,
i need to replace that line too. It's leaking mostly at the oil filter housing end. That end, with the two nuts, is rusted solid and I can't get it apart to replace the aluminum washer thats probably also corroded (which is probably the source of the leak). It's a messy leak too because it runs down the line and drips all over the muffler (nice smoke cloud when you stop after a spirited run!) plus it drips onto the ground as well.

Is no. 48 the washer in question? And would the new line come with nut no. 49 attached to it or is it a seperate order item.
Mine was the same. You need a heat gun and you really need the wrenches that are made for Porsche to be able to work on such a limited space. Wear a thick long sleeve shirt... or wrap a piece of flexible rubber around your arm... yes, I have a bruise to prove why you need to be ready when that thing breaks loose... ouch!



48 & 49 are the plug and washer for when you are changing the oil. That is to empty the filter (and avoid or minimize the mess) before you remove the filter. Get that washer as well as mine (see photo) was bad as well...



The aluminum washer/seal you need is 900.123.139.30 (same as #44 in this diagram).



and photo of the new line:



as others have mentioned... great time to do some cleaning while you are in there...


Last edited by Wachuko; 10-29-2008 at 07:22 PM.
Old 10-29-2008, 09:22 PM
  #19  
Don Nguyen
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What kind of conventional/dino oil is everyone running or using, if you aren't using synthetic?

-Don
Old 10-30-2008, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Don@ModBargains
What kind of conventional/dino oil is everyone running or using, if you aren't using synthetic?

-Don
This is what a lot of folks here seem to be recommending. Emailed them to find a local place that carries it.

http://www.bradpennracing.com/
Old 10-30-2008, 09:47 AM
  #21  
ilko
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I buy my Brad Penn off Ebay. It comes to about $70 for 12 quarts, shipped.
Old 10-30-2008, 01:44 PM
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Interesting, my oil filter housing doesn't have that drain nut and washer on it! It only has the in and out for the oil lines. So just to clarify, the nuts or unions that connect the oil lines to the filter housing aren't available seperately? It looks like the new line doesn't have those - they stay on the filter housing.
What size wrenches do you need for the connectors on the oil line - I'm using 1-1/16th for the small and 1-3/16 for the big one (because my neighbour is a Dodge collector and he doesn't use that metric stuff!).
Old 10-30-2008, 02:05 PM
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The oil lines wrenches needed are 32mm and 36mm.
Old 10-30-2008, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by frankvan
Interesting, my oil filter housing doesn't have that drain nut and washer on it! It only has the in and out for the oil lines. So just to clarify, the nuts or unions that connect the oil lines to the filter housing aren't available seperately? It looks like the new line doesn't have those - they stay on the filter housing.
What size wrenches do you need for the connectors on the oil line - I'm using 1-1/16th for the small and 1-3/16 for the big one (because my neighbour is a Dodge collector and he doesn't use that metric stuff!).
Not sure what you mean, the unions/adapters are available... it is item #43 in the diagram.
Old 10-30-2008, 04:08 PM
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Sorry for the confusion.
The union circled in red is what I'm curious about. Mine is leaking where it threads into the oil filter housing - it looks as if it has actually loosened off somehow as I can turn it within the housing as much as the attached oil line will allow.

The exposed threaded part in the pic is rusted solid into the oil line that goes behind the engine. Is this union the same as #43 in the diagram above that connects to the thermostat? Looking at parts pictures it appears that the oil line is shipped without that piece? I'll have to keep working it with the PB blaster and heat

The other possibility is that when I changed the clutch I disconnected the filter housing from the hose that goes to the reservoir (not circled on the right of the picture). I had to remove the filter housing from the car and left it hanging on the oil lline from the engine. When I hooked it back up I possibly had the filter housing rotated loose a full 360 degrees on the bottom oil line? I notice in the picture that there are no threads visible between the connector and the housing but on mine there is at least one turn of thread visible...
(I sense a long and messy weekend in the garage in my future)

My filter housing doesn't have the drain plug circled in blue. Is this an upgrade for later model years (mine is an Aug 89 build).

(I probably should start a separate thread on this - apologies if I'm hijacking)

Last edited by frankvan; 09-02-2009 at 05:36 PM.
Old 10-30-2008, 06:49 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by frankvan
Sorry for the confusion.
The union circled in red is what I'm curious about. Mine is leaking where it threads into the oil filter housing - it looks as if it has actually loosened off somehow as I can turn it within the housing as much as the attached oil line will allow.

The exposed threaded part in the pic is rusted solid into the oil line that goes behind the engine. It might look like it is rusted solid, but nothing a little bit of heat, holding one still and turning the other can't break loose... that is how mine was. Is this union the same as #43 in the diagram above that connects to the thermostat? Yes. Same part. Looking at parts pictures it appears that the oil line is shipped without that piece? Not part of the oil line. And you will be able to reuse yours. I'll have to keep working it with the PB blaster and heat YUP!

...

My filter housing doesn't have the drain plug circled in blue. Is this an upgrade for later model years (mine is an Aug 89 build). Could be. Mine is 91 and Chet is 90 and had it... so maybe 89's lacked that...

(I probably should start a separate thread on this - apologies if I'm hijacking)
Heat it, take it out, replace aluminum seals... I used some shellac in the threads to the filter base (as that is what it had when I took the old ones out), don't put anything on the hose side, that one is a compression joint, I only use a fine sandpaper in the border of #43 to clean the where the hose connects and makes the seal.
Old 11-02-2008, 05:21 PM
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No aluminum seals as the threaded bit is the same diameter as the oil filter housing inlet; ie there is no rim for a seal to fit against. But there was remnants of some shellac as you mentioned. I assume that when I moved the filter housing it "broke" the shellac that was sealing it and thus it started leaking. I used thread sealer (brown stuff that's like thick loctite) and reassembled and hopefully that will solve it (have to wait 24 hrs for the stuff to cure).

Frank

Last edited by frankvan; 09-02-2009 at 05:36 PM.
Old 11-02-2008, 06:19 PM
  #28  
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Just to show you what those aluminum rings can end up looking like,

mine
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Old 11-03-2008, 09:55 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by frankvan
No aluminum seals as the threaded bit is the same diameter as the oil filter housing inlet; ie there is no rim for a seal to fit against. But there was remnants of some shellac as you mentioned. I assume that when I moved the filter housing it "broke" the shellac that was sealing it and thus it started leaking. I used thread sealer (brown stuff that's like thick loctite) and reassembled and hopefully that will solve it (have to wait 24 hrs for the stuff to cure).

Frank
Frank,

Can you post a photo of your adapter? #43. Strange that there is no seal in yours.



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