Suspension install questions
#1
Professor of Pending Projects
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Suspension install questions
Doing the install now... Blistein (HD's) and H&R Sport springs...front was easy....
Doing the back. After a call to Jim and his explanation of the pain they went through getting that back nut out... I decided to just cut it
Took about 5 minutes to get the old ones out
Old out, now trying to install the new one in the rear...
I noticed that the rubber cover and the inside mushroom are toast... is that necessary in the new setup??
These are the old parts in question...
These are parts 6 and 8 in the PET diagram...
964.333.106.00 (dust cover), 964.333.105.00 (rubber mushroom)
Not to be confused with 964.333.069.00 rubber shock mount... that one is fine..
I am guessing the purpose of those is to protect dirt from going into the shock... but the shock has a seal there...
Doing the back. After a call to Jim and his explanation of the pain they went through getting that back nut out... I decided to just cut it
Took about 5 minutes to get the old ones out
Old out, now trying to install the new one in the rear...
I noticed that the rubber cover and the inside mushroom are toast... is that necessary in the new setup??
These are the old parts in question...
These are parts 6 and 8 in the PET diagram...
964.333.106.00 (dust cover), 964.333.105.00 (rubber mushroom)
Not to be confused with 964.333.069.00 rubber shock mount... that one is fine..
I am guessing the purpose of those is to protect dirt from going into the shock... but the shock has a seal there...
#2
Burgled
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I dnt think you need the rubber bumper. I went to Autozone or maybe PepBoys and bought generic covers just to give a bit of protection from road crud.
#3
Professor of Pending Projects
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#5
Remove the rear suspension and take it apart on the floor!
Did you get the rear mounts from Marc?(check the old ones properly)
I put the dust boot covers and bumps back on.
Rebuild to new specs...No worries in the long run.
later
Dwane
Did you get the rear mounts from Marc?(check the old ones properly)
I put the dust boot covers and bumps back on.
Rebuild to new specs...No worries in the long run.
later
Dwane
#6
You want to take the pictured nut , plus the other two, off. Then take the lower bolt out. The entire assembly will come out, then you can take it apart on a bench. You may need to compress the spring a little, as the stock springs are pretty long.
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#8
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If I still have'em somewhere, you can have them (free) if you want but it might take me a while to find them as my entire garage is in boxes after painting my attached garage floor and waiting for my new detached shop to be finished.
Marc
#9
If Jaime dosen't want them I'll take them.(damn DC Automotive)
Do you ever come back east? We were supposed to meet at Tremblant!
Maybe I'll swing by your place in January(check-out the car and garage). Going skiing at sunshine with my cousins from AB.
later
Dwane
Do you ever come back east? We were supposed to meet at Tremblant!
Maybe I'll swing by your place in January(check-out the car and garage). Going skiing at sunshine with my cousins from AB.
later
Dwane
#11
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Because I read in the book of Murphy, chapter 4, section 7, that when you try to make it easier on yourself, you end up breaking more nuts and bolts...
#12
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To remove the strut shaft nut you either, loosen it with an impact gun with car being on it's wheels (less load on on the nut itself) or remove it when the entire assembly is off the car. The second option is more suitable since you're all cramped up in the engine bay.
As for the bump stops, you need to put them back but read carefully the instructions that comes with bilstein cause on some applications you have to shorten them.
As for the bump stops, you need to put them back but read carefully the instructions that comes with bilstein cause on some applications you have to shorten them.
#13
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I think I still have the rear rubber suspension mounts (#10 in your PET photo).
If I still have'em somewhere, you can have them (free) if you want but it might take me a while to find them as my entire garage is in boxes after painting my attached garage floor and waiting for my new detached shop to be finished.
Marc
If I still have'em somewhere, you can have them (free) if you want but it might take me a while to find them as my entire garage is in boxes after painting my attached garage floor and waiting for my new detached shop to be finished.
Marc
So it looks like I will have to remove those six bolts after all...
I was able to put everything back in the garage...
well..... almost everything...
Last edited by Wachuko; 09-15-2008 at 09:07 AM.
#14
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And a few photos of the front install.. .just for kicks..
I had to bleed the brakes again, since I had to take the line apart to swap struts...
Old out:
It needs an alignment, I know... but trying to leave it close to what it was, I know it does not matter since different ride height, etc...
New one in place:
After I am done I will get those wheel wells nice and clean. I need to take time to give it some well deserved tlc...
That is all for now... now I wait for the parts to come in.
I had to bleed the brakes again, since I had to take the line apart to swap struts...
Old out:
It needs an alignment, I know... but trying to leave it close to what it was, I know it does not matter since different ride height, etc...
New one in place:
After I am done I will get those wheel wells nice and clean. I need to take time to give it some well deserved tlc...
That is all for now... now I wait for the parts to come in.
#15
Burning Brakes
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Just completed this job myself.
Cutting that nut off had to be WAY harder than removing the three 13mm nuts...
I used a (shorter) RS bump rubber on my rears. Last defense from metal to metal contact if things go bad.
Was scheduled for alignment today but - get this - my Motive Brake bleeder blew a hose during the bleeding! Brake fluid at 12 psi squirting everywhere!
I spent over an hour cleaning up the mess. Is synthetic brake fluid as nasty to paint as the old stuff??
Cutting that nut off had to be WAY harder than removing the three 13mm nuts...
I used a (shorter) RS bump rubber on my rears. Last defense from metal to metal contact if things go bad.
Was scheduled for alignment today but - get this - my Motive Brake bleeder blew a hose during the bleeding! Brake fluid at 12 psi squirting everywhere!
I spent over an hour cleaning up the mess. Is synthetic brake fluid as nasty to paint as the old stuff??