Jeff,
The number is 964-347-325-02. Two chucks of metal costing $40 each. If you have access to a machine shop I recommend that you make them yourself.

 

Great post!! I have the same issue at right full lock and that's with 225s at the front. At that price you're dead right about getting them machined though.

Thanks again.

Neil

 

Thanks!

Plan on working on replacing tie rods this coming weekend. Will look at the difficulty of fabricating steering stops myself.

Thanks again for the info.

Jeff

'89 964 C4 ~ Grand Prix White ~ Not quite stock....

 

If you are making your own stops, you will need a few measurements.
The factory stop is counterbored to a diameter a little bigger than the rack rod, 4 mm deep. The overall thickness is 10 mm. The length and height are the same as the 6mm stop that is on your car. Thread pitch of the hole will be the same as the 6mm stop also.

 

Does the counterbored end go toward the steering rack or does ot face the steering yoke?

 

They go toward the rack end.

 

Thanks!

 

If you take precise measurements of the exposed threads(allow for the new stop), and put it back to the same place, you won't have to reset your toe. I've done this when replacing a steering rack. 5mm wheel spacers I believe, would accomplish the same thing.

 

Good deal. I checked the threads and put it back the way it was. I was not sure about where the counterbored section went as I was under the impression that if it faced the rack, since it is recessed, I would not get the use of the full 10mm of the stop. It would make sense that it does face the rack as the rack fits into the counterbored section of the spacer but I wanted to make sure before I tightened everything down.

 

Well, I'm not that good.
Seriously, since the tie rod ends have to be broken loose anyway, the stack-up of tolerances are going to make it hard to hit those measurements.
The spacing between the stop and the shoulder of the inner tie rod yoke is 3-5mm. Since you are twisting the tie rod into the proper orientation and using the stop as the tie rod's lock nut, it might be quicker to set the distance up and reset the toe when you are all done rather than try to replicate the old dimensions.
If you are running 235's up front the 5mm spacer won't be enough.

 

I have had luck giving the ball joint a double whack on both sides of the steering arm at the same time with two hammers. If your lucky it pops right out no puller needed. I repeat "lucky"

I just had my car all apart and no torn boots ! whoo hoo ! and I run 205's so no bump stops needed.