I bought some 5mm wheel spacers and new steel lug nuts from Pelican and was assured the studs would be long enough. '89 C4 with Mille Miglia Cups and 205s. I was getting a little rubbing on the back inside fenderwell with the 205s and I had planned on going to 225s and read that the 5mm should alleviate the rubbing. The car had the MMs already on it when I bought it and don't see a receipt for new steering stops.

1) How many threads should be exposed for 'safety'? Seems that full engagement by all the nut threads would be the minimum. I will be DEing the car soon.

2) Neither of the spacers are true flat, with one less flat than the other. Neither are out over a 32nd. Being they are only 5mm and aluminum, I would think they will conform to the hub and the wheel without any issues when torqued up. Do you agree?

Thanks

 

the studs should at least be flush with the lugnuts to be totally safe .. the spacer will indeed be clamped flat when the wheel is bolted tite..


if your rubbing with just 205's on the rear there is a serious problem with the wheel offset or the alignment ...I have 9 inch rims with 55 offset and 275 section tires on the back with no rubbing.. i

f your talking about the front then make sure you have the updated steering spacer on the rack and you shold be able to run 225 with out a spacer

 

Yeah, they should coform.

I don't think the threads will be fully engaged with 5mm spacers with the standard studs. They weren't when I tried it. Personally, I wouldn't run spacers for a track application.

I'm really surprised you're rubbing with a 205 up front. Is it rubbing after your suspension change or from before? If it's from no steering stops, that won't be a problem on the track. You'll never turn it that sharp.

 

carnumber6: Alright, I guess I was less than clear. The 205s are on the front. 255s on the rear, no rubbing. The small rub area is on the wall of the left and right front fenderwell, its rubbing the rear of tire vs the front of the tire. I've never heard it and I assume its only at full lock going slow, parking etc.

deepuv: It was rubbing before the suspension change.

I just checked and its obvious the nice fella at Pelican is all wet. I am 3 threads shy of full nut engagement with the 5mm spacer and just flush without it. I really get annoyed when this c#*& happens because I could have easily added longer studs to the order. Now project is delayed again.

 

hmmmm, carnumber6, I wonder who that could be...?

anyway, this updated steering spacer, does this just not allow the steering rack to turn as far right and left? If so, why not just crank the wheel over as far?
that would be my CSOB solution.

 

All the 964 cups that run Dunlops run a 5mm spacer in the rear. I'm not sure why you think spacers would be an issue.

 

I meant with the standard studs.

 

Giday Crew,A couple of paragraphs from Adrain's book "Wheel spacers up to and including 6mm (0.24in thick) do not require longer studs to be installed in the wheel hub" and then he go's on to say"The author and others experienced in this issue recommend longer studs be used with spacers thicker than 5mm(about1/4 in). For the race track using 964 owners,longer studs and steel wheel nuts are recommended for all spacers no matter what the thickness" He also states A wheel spacer from 7mm to 40mm(0.275 to 1.574in) requires longer studs to be installed into the hub. from page 276 hope this helps

 

Does anyone have any experience with the H&R DRM spacers? http://www.automotion.com/productpage.aspx?pid=102089

I just bought a set of Fikse FM10s 8x17F and 9x17R from Wheel Enhancement with 55mm offsets. I'm running 255/40/17 Michelin Sport Cups on the rear with -2.0 degree camber and am getting a little rub on the control arm when the sidewall is fully flexed on hairpins. Advice?

Thanks

 

I have the DRMs on the rear of my C2, using them with Cup II 9x17s and 255x40x17s. Mine are 14mm thick
they work very nicely. Very clean and you don't have to change studs every time you use different wheels.
If you read the information on the H&R website about them, you will find that the wheels you use them with will need to have the back of the mounting flange scalloped so they work correctly. If the wheels you have are flat on the back of the mounting flange the DRMs will not work and you will need to use the normal type spacers with longer wheel studs.

here are a couple of pics

 

I use a set of the H&R DRM's (18 mm) with the MY02 18" 5-spoke rims I save for best as the rear offsets are 65.

I would not use spacers like this on the track as you can't easily check the torques of the spacer-to-hub lugs.

Marc

 

If you get steering wheel shimmy from the spacers, just rotate one of them 180 degrees from it's original position.

 

I raced this style of spacer/adapters on my C2 turbo for 3 years without issue.

 

I agree, if you check the torque when you do your pre-event inspection/servicing, there should be no problems with these.
and since you aren't taking them off and on constantly like a wheel, I doubt the torque values would change appreciably if at all from service to service.

 

I run 5mm spacers on all four wheels with stock studs. I know they are not quite as long as they should be, I dont track my car.

I have no shimmy.