dfinnegan

Here is a link to a few boot latch pics.

Front boot latch pics

I've read about a case where the latch was opened from below via the drain plug hole. However, in that case it was a track car and there was no spare tire or carpet in place! They were able to shine a light and look through and release the latch with a very long and thin screw driver, or some such. I know; not much help in your case.

Perhaps the pics will be of some use.

I do hope you can manage to get it resolved.

John Rygg

Thanks for the Pictures, looks like a pretty tight area.

also Just an FYI for those of you that have an emergency release handle.
you might consider an emergency lug wrench.

Since mine is stored in the trunk, I can tell you from experience that it takes some extra muscle to get those lugs off with a socket set.

(back is a bit sore today)

John.

JONES199

I had this happen to me; I was able to release the latch by removing the handle from the interior and grabbing the wire itself with some needle nose pliers and pulling. It made just enough of a difference that the latch popped.

mojorizing

JOnes199 has a good point...if one of the guides for the wire broke causing excessive slack in the wire, this would cause the release handle to be sloppy.

John Rygg

Good Point, I will give it a try with my fingers crossed, my rabbit foot in hand and my 4 leaf clover between my teeth.

anything sounds better then the hack saw option.

Thanks
John

John Rygg

I ran in to a old class mate "Jeff Curtis" on Rennlist who gave me some suggestions that I thought I might post to help others out. I am going to have to wait till this weekend to give it a go.

Before I pull my Wheel and inner fender again , does anyone have any pictures of where this 2" rubber hole plug might be ? and has anyone been able to do this ?


To release your front trunk you can remove your left front wheel, then the plastic fenderliners and there is about a 2" rubber hole plug that you remove, either shine a light in there and grab the latch with a coat hanger or within reach of that hole should be your release cable...release it from your release handle under the dash, and pull out that length of it to see if you can snip and get some material (inner cable) to yank on or if it has broken near the latch, you'll have to use choice #1. I believe this is the way to do it, I haven't had to do it myself - but once that's all over, make sure you visit a bike store and buy a deraillure cable for a road bike, fasten it to the other port on your trunk latch and run it outside that rubber plug, wrap in a small loop and crimp with a ferrule for an "emergency release" like the rest of us, this works front and rear.

crg53

I lifted the car up quite a pit higher so I can get right under with some room to move. There are a couple of rubber grommets in the bottom of the car close to were the spare tire is located, I pushed those out, one is right under the spare wheel, so no go, the other is in front so I can get a rod in there and search around, I can feel things, but cant' see anything. Later tonight I will pick up my BORESCOPE out of the racetrailer, and maybe I will be able to hook on to the latch and open the hood. I will let you know how I make out, it could be a day or two before I have a chance to get at it.



Steen

mojorizing

As far as plugs are concerned, all I have is what's pictured in dfinnegan post...



That shows an emerg. release cable snaking out to the wheel well. No other plugs to gain access from, at least on my car . The drain hole in the spare wheel well might be your best bet, but remember the latch mechanism shifts to the left to release, not down.

Is it possible the pin slipped out at the handle end?

In any case, good luck, I was looking at my car, noticed that there's no emerg. wire, and couldn't figure out a good way to open the hood if mine were to break.

elbeee964

Tonight I dropped by the local bicycle shop. They carry a perfectly adequate emergency release cable in the form of 1-1/2 mm diameter stainless brake cable. It even comes with an anchor/pull point attached at one end. 5-1/2 ft. long. $3.50

Don't tell 'em what it's for -- they'll look at ya funny. And the price may go up.

John Rygg

OPEN !
Thanks to everyones help I now have a trunk again.
Jones 199 had it right .
One of the Guides for the cable must have come loose and caused too much slack. I just unhooked it an gave it a mighty tug.

I guess we always jump to the worst conclusion and skip over the simple answer.

Thank you everyone !
now I am off to the bike shop !


John

crg53

Hi john, glad to hear you got yours opened. Tomorrow I will give it a try using the borescope and a rod. Last night I stuck the scope in there, and I can see the wire loop attached to the lock itself, so it is just a matter of getting the rod hooked up to the loop and give it a good pull,it will take a few tries but I WILL get it.


Steen

crg53

GOOD NEWS I got the hood opened. With the help of the borescope and a piece of 1/2" tubing I managed to get some leverage on the lock and spring it open. I did have to cut the drain hole bigger, but that will not be a problem.

Thanks for all the help and support, you guys are the best.

Steen

amr89c4

Hi Steen,

That was a great idea and it obviously works well. Perhaps one should go ahead and make one of these little tools and keep tie wrapped under the seat or something for the inevitable.

Was the floorpan hole enlargement necessary or convenient? I assume it was so you could get the borescope in there at the same time. Could the procedure be done without a borescope?What was the length of the rod? Hey, maybe you should patent that puppy and sell em!

Nice work and thanks for sharing!

crg53

Lynn, making the hole larger is a necessity, the spare tire is in the way. The snorkel on the borescope is 18" long, so I cut the tubing the same length, that way you can insert the borescope into the tubing and be able to see through it and at the same time the tubing acts as you leverage tool, sort of like having a prybar you can see through. As said earlier in this thread, if you do not have the second wire in there for these emergencies, you should install one NOW, front and rear. I just got back from town with all the pieces for exactly that.


Steen

mojorizing

I installed a secondary pull cable for the front hood as described earlier in the post. In checking with the PET, it shows a secondary pull cable for the engine hood. Anybody know what route it takes to exit the engine space?

Thanks, Kevin