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Newbie Q's with pics: fuel smell, shocks, dash option

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Old 06-29-2008, 03:11 PM
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-nick
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Default Newbie Q's with pics: fuel smell, shocks, dash option

Hi all,
I have a couple basic questions that I haven't found in the archive here. The first one is just a confirmation - these are the later rear shocks yes? I'm doing the Bilstein + H&R swap as soon as I get the parts and get time. Also, the DIY info that I've come across suggests that the front brake lines need to be opened up to pull the front strut & spring out. Is this true? With the C4 pressurized brakes, this sounds like a job for a shop.



I also came across this broken rubber boot as I was poking around. Being new to these motors, what exactly does this do?



I removed the fake wood veneer from the dash and found this hole. Anyone know what this is and what it should be covered with?



And last, there is a fuel smell emanating from this space. Thoughts?



Thanks!
Old 06-29-2008, 05:33 PM
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1990-964
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Yes you do have to crack the brake lines to remove the front struts. They pass through a tab on the damper body and it is necessary to separate it there to get the strut out.

The cracked boot over the cooling fan is very common with age very easy and inexpensive DIY.

For the dash, it looks like a former hack job of some kind for an alarm or some accessory. There is no factory piece that fills those holes as far as I know.


The fuel smell is common as well. There is a factory update for the fuel filler neck. Do a search and or contact the dealer. I discovered this soon after getting my car 5 years ago and had this done and so far no problems.

Good Luck with it all and WELCOME to the Insanity.
Old 06-29-2008, 05:39 PM
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garrett376
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Fixing the dash holes is not hard: Buy some scrap delrin plastic sheeting (about 1/4" thick, has same color and texture appearance as dash); cut out the entire raised portion of the square cutout in the dash with a knife; cut a piece of delrin to match the size; superglue it in place and you won't be able to tell it was ever changed (if you do it well).

And a C4 has a pressurized assist brake system - the brake hydraulics after the master cylinder are no different than any other car that has hydraulic brakes.
Old 06-29-2008, 06:15 PM
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mr pg
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There is another option to cracking the brake lines on the front struts. The metall tab can be cut and bent to release the brake pipe. Simply bend it back when re-assembling. It works perfectly well.
Old 06-29-2008, 06:32 PM
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Pesty
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Originally Posted by mr pg
There is another option to cracking the brake lines on the front struts. The metall tab can be cut and bent to release the brake pipe. Simply bend it back when re-assembling. It works perfectly well.
doh I didnt think of that. I cut a slot oh well obviously that means doing the same to your new struts though which might invalidate warrenty?

as for fuel smell. they all do that sir. I fitted the updated pipe(very easy job) smell is less but still there
Old 06-30-2008, 11:13 AM
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-nick
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Thanks everyone. I've just ordered my Bilsteins and H&R springs from shox.com and am about to ring up the dealer for the extra plastic bits for the shock change and also the fuel filler neck and cracked fan boot.

I confess that I don't understand the braking circuit. So it uses pressurized hydraulics for the assist rather than a vacuum booster, eh? Then I can bleed at the calipers as usual?

Good tip on using delrin for the dash. The indentation is definitely factory. There wasn't some optional button or switch there on any models? This car had a lo-jack and carphone installed by the original owner, both are frightening wiring potentials.
Old 06-30-2008, 11:24 AM
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John Rygg
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Also , I know it sounds simple but a new gas cap would be a good investment .
I had the same gas smell and a new gas cap did wonders.

John.
Old 06-30-2008, 11:29 AM
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Jim Howley
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If you need to change the fuel filler neck you can find a DIY write up in the technical section of http://www.porsche964.co.uk
Old 06-30-2008, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by -nick
Good tip on using delrin for the dash. The indentation is definitely factory. There wasn't some optional button or switch there on any models?
The only factory switch for that location was the headlight leveling system on the RoW cars. Was not an option on US cars even though the switch appears in US PET there is no part number.

It was a vertically oriented thumb wheel switch.

Dont forget to checkout the DIY section here on Rennlist. There is a fuel filler replacement article as well.
Old 06-30-2008, 06:44 PM
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Pesty,
I had new damper inserts only (Koni sports), so re-used the existing strut housing. Therefore no warranty issues.

Paul.
Old 07-01-2008, 03:47 AM
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Originally Posted by mr pg
There is another option to cracking the brake lines on the front struts. The metall tab can be cut and bent to release the brake pipe. Simply bend it back when re-assembling. It works perfectly well.
+1
Old 07-01-2008, 06:42 AM
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newsboy
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Remember to clamp the brake fluid reservoir overflow tube before bleeding the brakes.
Old 07-01-2008, 10:06 AM
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Here is what an ROW LHD looks like..

Last edited by Uber 911; 01-09-2010 at 06:51 PM.
Old 07-01-2008, 10:19 AM
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Default re: fuel smell

first step - replace the gasket on the gas cap. cheap part, about $2. I just replaced my 16 year old gasket and the cap definitely seals better and no smell, yet. P/N 944 201 553 00

Have fun. This is better than Prozac.



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