Newbie Q's with pics: fuel smell, shocks, dash option
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
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Hi all,
I have a couple basic questions that I haven't found in the archive here. The first one is just a confirmation - these are the later rear shocks yes? I'm doing the Bilstein + H&R swap as soon as I get the parts and get time. Also, the DIY info that I've come across suggests that the front brake lines need to be opened up to pull the front strut & spring out. Is this true? With the C4 pressurized brakes, this sounds like a job for a shop.
![](https://lh6.ggpht.com/durham.nick/SGfNy7BD25I/AAAAAAAAAtc/HKfMytTTzEw/rearshock.JPG?imgmax=512)
I also came across this broken rubber boot as I was poking around. Being new to these motors, what exactly does this do?
![](https://lh3.ggpht.com/durham.nick/SGfOHpXZ0CI/AAAAAAAAAtU/G6ADU-9oVkw/crack.JPG?imgmax=512)
I removed the fake wood veneer from the dash and found this hole. Anyone know what this is and what it should be covered with?
![](https://lh3.ggpht.com/durham.nick/SGfNyn5VExI/AAAAAAAAAtE/9LcVjpjvIIw/dashhole.JPG?imgmax=512)
And last, there is a fuel smell emanating from this space. Thoughts?
![](https://lh4.ggpht.com/durham.nick/SGfNyDkcC5I/AAAAAAAAAs8/U26tViW6GfI/fuelsmell.JPG?imgmax=512)
Thanks!
I have a couple basic questions that I haven't found in the archive here. The first one is just a confirmation - these are the later rear shocks yes? I'm doing the Bilstein + H&R swap as soon as I get the parts and get time. Also, the DIY info that I've come across suggests that the front brake lines need to be opened up to pull the front strut & spring out. Is this true? With the C4 pressurized brakes, this sounds like a job for a shop.
I also came across this broken rubber boot as I was poking around. Being new to these motors, what exactly does this do?
I removed the fake wood veneer from the dash and found this hole. Anyone know what this is and what it should be covered with?
And last, there is a fuel smell emanating from this space. Thoughts?
Thanks!
#2
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Yes you do have to crack the brake lines to remove the front struts. They pass through a tab on the damper body and it is necessary to separate it there to get the strut out.
The cracked boot over the cooling fan is very common with age very easy and inexpensive DIY.
For the dash, it looks like a former hack job of some kind for an alarm or some accessory. There is no factory piece that fills those holes as far as I know.
The fuel smell is common as well. There is a factory update for the fuel filler neck. Do a search and or contact the dealer. I discovered this soon after getting my car 5 years ago and had this done and so far no problems.
Good Luck with it all and WELCOME to the Insanity.
The cracked boot over the cooling fan is very common with age very easy and inexpensive DIY.
For the dash, it looks like a former hack job of some kind for an alarm or some accessory. There is no factory piece that fills those holes as far as I know.
The fuel smell is common as well. There is a factory update for the fuel filler neck. Do a search and or contact the dealer. I discovered this soon after getting my car 5 years ago and had this done and so far no problems.
Good Luck with it all and WELCOME to the Insanity.
#3
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
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Fixing the dash holes is not hard: Buy some scrap delrin plastic sheeting (about 1/4" thick, has same color and texture appearance as dash); cut out the entire raised portion of the square cutout in the dash with a knife; cut a piece of delrin to match the size; superglue it in place and you won't be able to tell it was ever changed (if you do it well).
And a C4 has a pressurized assist brake system - the brake hydraulics after the master cylinder are no different than any other car that has hydraulic brakes.
And a C4 has a pressurized assist brake system - the brake hydraulics after the master cylinder are no different than any other car that has hydraulic brakes.
#4
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There is another option to cracking the brake lines on the front struts. The metall tab can be cut and bent to release the brake pipe. Simply bend it back when re-assembling. It works perfectly well.
#5
Rennlist Member
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as for fuel smell. they all do that sir. I fitted the updated pipe(very easy job) smell is less but still there
#6
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone. I've just ordered my Bilsteins and H&R springs from shox.com and am about to ring up the dealer for the extra plastic bits for the shock change and also the fuel filler neck and cracked fan boot.
I confess that I don't understand the braking circuit. So it uses pressurized hydraulics for the assist rather than a vacuum booster, eh? Then I can bleed at the calipers as usual?
Good tip on using delrin for the dash. The indentation is definitely factory. There wasn't some optional button or switch there on any models? This car had a lo-jack and carphone installed by the original owner, both are frightening wiring potentials.
I confess that I don't understand the braking circuit. So it uses pressurized hydraulics for the assist rather than a vacuum booster, eh? Then I can bleed at the calipers as usual?
Good tip on using delrin for the dash. The indentation is definitely factory. There wasn't some optional button or switch there on any models? This car had a lo-jack and carphone installed by the original owner, both are frightening wiring potentials.
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#8
Burning Brakes
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If you need to change the fuel filler neck you can find a DIY write up in the technical section of http://www.porsche964.co.uk
#9
Rennlist Member
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It was a vertically oriented thumb wheel switch.
Dont forget to checkout the DIY section here on Rennlist. There is a fuel filler replacement article as well.
#11
Drifting
#14
Rennlist Member
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first step - replace the gasket on the gas cap. cheap part, about $2. I just replaced my 16 year old gasket and the cap definitely seals better and no smell, yet. P/N 944 201 553 00
Have fun. This is better than Prozac.
Have fun. This is better than Prozac.