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Old 06-16-2008, 08:10 AM
  #16  
PORKERINO
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Originally Posted by Christer
Porkerino

Don't panic at this point. Get the car flatbedded over to a specialist to take al ook, it doesn't necessarily sound like a huge problem right now IMHO. Where are you based?
Hi Christer,
I am based in North London
Thanks for the kind words, will try to remain calm!
Regards
Old 06-16-2008, 08:31 AM
  #17  
DaveK
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JZ Machtech are near Watford and are very good :

http://www.jzmachtech.com/shells/

Incidentally - where did you get the car? Was it a private sale? What does the seller say?
Old 06-16-2008, 10:02 AM
  #18  
Larry Herman
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Like Christer says, never panic, but it would appear then that the self-diagnoses stage is over. I agree that a competent mechanic should have a look at it. Tell him exactly what happened, but don't, DON'T under any circumstances advance your own theory as to what you think is wrong. Let him check it out with no pre-conceived ideas.

BTW a leak down is a pressurization of each cylinder to see how much pressure the cylinder can hold. It tests the sealing of the valves and rings at Top Dead Center (firing position). Using a constant 100 psi source, if the cylinder can hold 97 psi, then you have 3% leak down, which is good. Over 10% is getting weak, and over 20% is time for a re-build.
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Old 06-16-2008, 10:07 AM
  #19  
PORKERINO
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Originally Posted by DaveK
JZ Machtech are near Watford and are very good :

http://www.jzmachtech.com/shells/

Incidentally - where did you get the car? Was it a private sale? What does the seller say?

Hi Dave,
Private sale unfortunately, cnn't be bothered with the seller who had made me sign a final sale/ no warranty receipt And lied big time!!
Thanks for the info- have booked a flatbed to take cat to specialist, wait and see- fingers crossed!
POKERINO
Old 06-16-2008, 10:19 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Larry Herman
Like Christer says, never panic, but it would appear then that the self-diagnoses stage is over. I agree that a competent mechanic should have a look at it. Tell him exactly what happened, but don't, DON'T under any circumstances advance your own theory as to what you think is wrong. Let him check it out with no pre-conceived ideas.

BTW a leak down is a pressurization of each cylinder to see how much pressure the cylinder can hold. It tests the sealing of the valves and rings at Top Dead Center (firing position). Using a constant 100 psi source, if the cylinder can hold 97 psi, then you have 3% leak down, which is good. Over 10% is getting weak, and over 20% is time for a re-build.
Thanks Larry,
Totally agree with you, having the car put on flatbed truck for someone to have a look at- being taken away this afternoon. As mentioned, my biggest worry now is to either have it fixed before the move company takes it away, or at lease order all the parts before shipping and then take the time to build myself once in Australia. The part you explained with the leakdown is brilliant! would this also tell us if the oil is then leaking into the camshaft? if so at least we will know where to start.
I really love this car (honestly and would do my best to make it roadworthy) unfortunately resources are limited at the moment and have to keep a close eye on the final bill.
POKERINO
Old 06-16-2008, 10:36 AM
  #21  
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Porker

Reading your posts is like trying to track a fly with your eyes in the air after drinking 12 pints of vodka - I am getting dizzy.

Let me say it again:

Calm down. Let the experts take a look. Listen to what they have to say. Did I mention 'calm down'? You are already considering many things that may not even be relevant. I can vouch for the fact that JZ Machtech are not the cheapest in terms of basic 'per-hour' labour rates, but are usually very good at not spending more time than they have to in diagnosing problems - so its a good choice. They also have an excellent reputation.

Let us know what they say when you hear something. At this stage, it is simply not worth it to get too far ahead of yourself!
Old 06-16-2008, 11:17 AM
  #22  
pat056
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Checking oil level on a 964 is different than any other car that I've ever had. The engine must be at operating temperature. That would take about 20 minutes of relatively hard driving to get it there. It's the only car I've had where the oil level is checked while the engine's running. You have an oil level guage and an oil temperature guage. For the 964's I've had, a good rule is to have the oil temperature and oil level guages equal. That means, if the oil temperature needle is 1/4 up the guage, the oil level needle should be there also (of course, that's after the car is warmed and has idled for 30 seconds on level ground).
Another rule is if the the oil is leaking on the right hand side of the car, high oil level or sloppy oil changing that has spilled oil is the 1st place to look. Getting oil into a 964 w/o spilling takes some practice. You will become painfully aware of this when you change your own oil for the 1st time.
You've gotten great advice. have it checked out and let us know. My $$ is on an overfilled oil system.
Old 06-16-2008, 02:27 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by pat056
Checking oil level on a 964 is different than any other car that I've ever had. The engine must be at operating temperature. That would take about 20 minutes of relatively hard driving to get it there. It's the only car I've had where the oil level is checked while the engine's running. You have an oil level guage and an oil temperature guage. For the 964's I've had, a good rule is to have the oil temperature and oil level guages equal. That means, if the oil temperature needle is 1/4 up the guage, the oil level needle should be there also (of course, that's after the car is warmed and has idled for 30 seconds on level ground).
Another rule is if the the oil is leaking on the right hand side of the car, high oil level or sloppy oil changing that has spilled oil is the 1st place to look. Getting oil into a 964 w/o spilling takes some practice. You will become painfully aware of this when you change your own oil for the 1st time.
You've gotten great advice. have it checked out and let us know. My $$ is on an overfilled oil system.
Thanks Pat056,
These words are a welcome relief as are the previous posters. You all have been very supportive. Lets wait and see......
Old 06-16-2008, 05:49 PM
  #24  
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+1 ^^^

Originally Posted by pat056
My $$ is on an overfilled oil system.
Old 06-17-2008, 12:25 AM
  #25  
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At the risk of sounding terminally stupid, what are the hazards of an oil overfill? Is there any chance of damaging the engine?

JNeteler
Old 06-17-2008, 11:29 AM
  #26  
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Porker, please post your findings.
Old 06-17-2008, 12:03 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by DogInBlack
Porker, please post your findings.
Dog in black,
As soon as I hear from the garage, will post!
Porker
Old 06-17-2008, 12:16 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by pat056
Checking oil level on a 964 is different than any other car that I've ever had. The engine must be at operating temperature. That would take about 20 minutes of relatively hard driving to get it there. It's the only car I've had where the oil level is checked while the engine's running. You have an oil level guage and an oil temperature guage. For the 964's I've had, a good rule is to have the oil temperature and oil level guages equal. That means, if the oil temperature needle is 1/4 up the guage, the oil level needle should be there also (of course, that's after the car is warmed and has idled for 30 seconds on level ground).
Another rule is if the the oil is leaking on the right hand side of the car, high oil level or sloppy oil changing that has spilled oil is the 1st place to look. Getting oil into a 964 w/o spilling takes some practice. You will become painfully aware of this when you change your own oil for the 1st time.
You've gotten great advice. have it checked out and let us know. My $$ is on an overfilled oil system.
I still remember my first overfill....

and the time I thought my car had no oil pressure and it was because I was looking at the wrong gauge... the sad part is that those to events were some 5 years apart ... just a blonde moment I guess... it takes time getting use to these cars.

Anyway, here to hoping it was just an oil overfill issue
Old 06-17-2008, 12:26 PM
  #29  
Sal 965
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Originally Posted by PORKERINO
Here's my dilemma: Bought a 911 - 930 turbo (1986) with a 964 turbo engine K27 / 11 TURBO (1991 engine) literally a week back for shipping to Australia (as we move there within the next 6 months).
Slightly getting away from the original post but i seem to remember when I looked, albeit last year, into exporting my car to Australia that you had to have been the keeper for two years before you could export it as a personal possession. Did you checked into this before you bought the car or have the rules changed.

I know quite a few people have exported cars to Australia on here and i vaguely remember that the the checks on the car and the requirements are quite rigid in regard to OEM equipment.

Maybe time for a few detail checks.

I'm sorry if this adds to your woes.
Old 06-17-2008, 12:31 PM
  #30  
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Even the local indy air-cooled guru overfilled mine on its first oil change.

After that, I started changing my own oil, just like the rest of my vehicles.


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