ABQ Slim

I'm at 60K miles, and my respected mechanic says the clutch feels like it needs replacing. You have to press the clutch ALL THE WAY to the floor to get it in first. Frankly, it's felt that way for 2 years, with no improvement/degradation. I've got nothing to compare the "heaviness" of the clutch with, so I can't comment on that.

There is no difference in warm/cold engine. It's like that all the time.

Apparently, in a C4, it's easier to drop the engine and tranny to do the clutch replacement.

So it then becomes a "well, while you're in there. . ." scenario. I'm thinking clutch, flywheel, throwout bearing at least. What else should I consider at 60k miles if the engine and tranny are out for that job? Upgrade flywheel? It's a daily driver in the city - I need it to idle properly. Seals? There are currently no leaks, but "while I'm in there. . ."

The car runs great in all respects except for the "clutch pedal to the floor" syndrome to get it into first gear. Thanks!

anto1150

Have you tried bleeding the clutch circuit?

t-shark

You should always floor the clutch to shift, especially first cause it is very precise. The distance the clutch disengages is very small that's why u floor it. Don't be lazy!

MisterRisky

So your mechanic must have a car payment due soon.

If your clutch is not slipping I would be hesitant to dive in there. If you get rolling at 20 MPH and put the car in 4th and floor it, does the clutch slip? That's always been my clutch test method.

FWIW, I don't think I can get my car in first without flooring it. I've never tried as I always push the clutch in all the way.

Danz C4

To answer your question, I just had my clutch replaced. Same as you, 1990 C4 Cabriolet, 64,000 miles. The clutch was very hard to depress, and was on or off, almost no in between. With the new clutch, everything is smooth, and easy to feather the clutch in.

Here is the list of things I had done, with labor hours and parts cost for main items:

Directly related to clutch:

* Engine and Transmission remove and re-install. Change oil and filter. Remove A/C compressor. 13 hours.
* Clutch replacement. Replace dual mass flywheel. Replace clutch disk, pressure plate and release bearing. Replace flywheel seal. 2 hours. Clutch kit, dualmass flywheel, $2,076.
* Replace T/O shaft bearings and seals. 1.5 hours. $300+-.
* Replace sound pad. 3 hours. $91.
* Inspect engine and transmission mounts. 0 hours.

Not related to clutch, but needed and easy to do with engine out:

* Replace power steering drive seal and belt. 4 hours. $103.
* Replace right and left chain covers. 5 hours. $24
* Replace right and left cam bridges. 2 hours.
* Reseal top of engine, reseal breather cover, reseal oil distribution block and pressure switch, replace breather hose, replace vacuum fittings and hoses as needed. 1.75 hours.

Other things done just because it's in the shop:

* 15,000 mile maintenance. 8.5 hours.
* Adjust ride height. 2 hours.
* 4 wheel alignment. 2.5 hours.
* Install tie rod spacers and replace steering rack boots. 2 hours.
* Replace CV boots and grease. 4 hours.
* Brake fluid change. Flush power booster. 1.5 hours.
* Replace DME. 0 hours. $35
* Update window frame bracket. 1.5 hours. $15.
* Replace window switch. 0 hours. $52.

Total labor 46 hours. Total parts $3,345.

Danz C4

ABQ Slim

Thanks a lot for the feedback, guys. This will be a great help.

It's not so much that I have to push the clutch all the way in - of course I do that. But it engages maybe half an inch off the floor, which my mechanic says is not how it should feel.

I have not tried bleeding the system, yet. The clutch is not slipping.

Wachuko

Bleed the system, check the condition of the slave cylinder and replace if necessary... but don't spend the money on clutch work until it starts to slip... imho of course...

When you do change it, change the fork, needle bearings, etc. for the updated versions, and the stuff already mentioned by Danz C4 in this thread.

A new clutch will be butter smooth to use... with age they become harder to press... at least that is what I experienced with my during the last clutch change... but I failed to update the fork.

Others that have done a clutch change and fork update should chime in and share the miles on the new clutch and if it is still as smooth and easy to use and the day it was installed.

t-shark

I just replaced mine, without changing the fork.
I hope that will be ok...
Know that you can do this without removing the engine completely. Just lower it by removing the stabilisor and nearby screws, drop it a few centimeters and you can take of the transmission compartment (what s the official word...?
I have now some second thoughts that I didnt change the flywheel to a lightweight. Is the difference that great?
Tommie