I thought it might be useful to some to get a "real world" update on using Brad Penn which I put in my car a couple months ago (mixed 10w30 and 20w50 to get 15w40).

We all can debate it's chemical contents versus other oils on the market until our fingers fall off (you all know the post I'm referring to!) so I won't get into that. However, I am confident that it is a solid choice if one is uncertain about the Mobile 1 currently on the market and doesn't want to sink almost $10/quart into Redline, a full synthetic, like myself. Remember, BP is a partial synthetic with only about 10% synthetic.

The difference I have noticed between BP and Mobile 1 is that the BP has run a bit hotter when the engine is pushed. During normal driving or slightly spirited jaunts, there is no difference. However, when running at fast speeds with most shifts close to redline for extended periods, it definitely runs hotter. When I say hotter, I mean 9 o'clock or a touch above. The only time the Mobile 1 reached this temp was on very hot days and sitting in a traffic jam. I am interested to see what happens in the dead of the summer.

Hope this helps and please feel free to share your experiences.

Best,
Adam

 

I was about to make a smart-butt comment about 'another oil thread', but this is an interesting point that hasn't been discussed much. My Redline seems to run cooler than the Valvoline synthetic I had in previously, consistently at a touch below the 8:00 mark.

No further comment here.

 

I changed from ELF Excellium 5w/40, which my car drank like water, to Brad Pen 15w/50, and so far have noticed a difference in the oil pressure at idle, which went up half a notch, and a lot less oil consumption. Oil temp seems to stay the same as always, just above 8 o'clock. I did take the car for a track day where I would redline it before each shift and the oil temp never went over 9 o'clock, ambient temp around 65F.

 

I switched from Mobil 1 10-40 to BP 20-50 and noticed a tremendous change!

I had developed a "spray" of oil from the area where the cam passes from the block to the cam housing. I was about to drop the engine to replace the O-ring on the cam and the paper gasket.

Since the switch - 500 miles, of which 180 miles were DEing @ Pocono for 2 days,the leak from that area disappeared!

I'm just left with a couple of minor leaks at the back of the engine (maybe they will also disappear)

The fact that it isn't 100% synthetic doesn't phase me, cause I change oil often.

I'm buying it on Ebay and it arrives the following day, total cost for a case is ~$63.00.

 

I had a similar experience with 20-50. I had some weepage in previously dry areas and found some spots on the ground that I did not have. I switched back to 15-40 and those areas are now dry again.

My idle oil pressure was twice it's previous level when using 20-50. I won't do that again.

 

BP 20-50 seems to reach operating temps sooner, (8 on the dial) and does not get "as hot", but we have yet to get into any real summer in the PNW.

 

Good info guys, thanks for posting. Looks like I may be the only one noticing a temp change. Then again, maybe it's because I'm driving a bit harder

Sounds like everyone is pleased with it so far. The true test will be when it gets really hot outside.

 

Very useful information. Thanks to the OP.

Has anyone had any seat-of-the-pants test results with Brad Penn in the winter? I should rephrase and say in the Canadian winter.

My mechanic insists that with the extreme temps here in Toronto something with a 5w50 weight is more suitable. Hence I've stuck with Mobil for now.

 

I'm having great luck with BP here in VA. It is hot as blue blazes here with midnight temps in the 80s and 100 during my afternoon commute. My car settles in right at 9 oclock and all is well. That's in both stop and go traffic and interstate driving.

I also have seen oil consumption go down vs. other oil I have experimented with. BP seems like the perfect blend of price and performance. I too change my oil before I hit the mileage limit so I am not phased by dino.