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Leaking A LOT from the oil plug area

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Old 05-11-2008, 09:57 AM
  #16  
jox
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Million thanks Rob!!!

I love this forum!

I may be blind but it looks like my lines vary a little from that diagram - I can't find my leaking hose anywhere on there? Shouldn't it go directly behind 26 and 30?

Another pic:
Old 05-11-2008, 10:06 AM
  #17  
Rocket Rob
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That looks like #46 on the parts diagram. It runs from the thermostat to the oil filter. If you follow the hose up and to the rear of the car, does it go to the oil filter housing?

EDIT: I'm assuming that you have cleaned everything thoroughly and then re-run the engine to make sure you have the true source of the leak. Is that correct? Oil drips can be very tricky to follow as they get blown around by wind and air currents.
Old 05-11-2008, 10:49 AM
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LouZ
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Originally Posted by Rocket Rob
EDIT: I'm assuming that you have cleaned everything thoroughly and then re-run the engine to make sure you have the true source of the leak. Is that correct? Oil drips can be very tricky to follow as they get blown around by wind and air currents.
I agree, the small rubber hose with the bulge, #30, sits right against the thermo hose #46. That expansion bulge will tend to wear, causing a leak - that's the one that went on mine!

Try loosening the 2 clamps on both #26 & 30 and rotate them 180 degrees, then check for a crack.

Those 2 hoses are "relatively" easy to replace.
Old 05-11-2008, 11:16 AM
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dfinnegan
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How did you guys clean this area? Carb Cleaner? Engine Cleaner? Elbow Grease?
Old 05-11-2008, 11:54 AM
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Colin 90 C2
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I am now using my new favorite cleaner: wd 40.
buy it in the gallon jug for $12 and spray on, it dissolves most petroleum products.
Old 05-11-2008, 12:13 PM
  #21  
jox
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Thanks again guys - don't know what I would do without you!!

Heading down to my dealership tomorrow for all the parts hoping that a) I will get the hoses and clamps some time this week and b) I can install it myself - all of this before next saturday morning when I'm hoping I have a leak-free 911 ready for a long trip.

Those of you who did this procedure, approx how long did it take to replace all 4 hoses/clamps? Is it very hands-on (it looked that way) or some words of advice before I screw it u... I mean, before I get started?
Old 05-11-2008, 01:10 PM
  #22  
elbeee964
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(woow!)
Jox-
Just poked my head back in since yesterday, saw your picture and... [!]
That's a leak, brother! (and it sure has nothing to do with the oil plug. sorry for not guessing this yesterday)
You're on the right course following Rocket, Lou, Collin & the lads.

FWIW, the two short rubber lines (30, 26) are always unpressurized, the braided one is pressurized only while running. If it's that much of a leaker while not running, odds are its one of the two 'stubbies' under standing head pressure of that oil tank.
Old 05-11-2008, 01:25 PM
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Indycam
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"some words of advice before I screw it"
Hot rubber bends / stretches etc far better than cold rubber .
Old 05-11-2008, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Colin 90 C2
I am now using my new favorite cleaner: wd 40.
buy it in the gallon jug for $12 and spray on, it dissolves most petroleum products.
WD 40 is great, but not around rubber parts. It is more agressive than motor oil, and oil only contacts the ID surfaces. Carb cleaner is even more agressive than WD 40. Hot water, detergent, and a nylon brush do a pretty good job, and no worries about premature aging of the rubber.

Look at the steel pipe - the deeper rust pits are about half way through the wall. A good cleaning risks setting off a new round of corrosion. Wire brush and paint the pipes "while you are in".
Old 05-11-2008, 02:42 PM
  #25  
Rocket Rob
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I used lots of Simple Green and a parts cleaning brush to clean my wheel well. It does a good job of removing most oil/grease without damaging paint or rubber. I used brake clean for really stubborn spots. You will be amazed at how much dirt and grit accumulates.

Note: You will need to drain the oil before replacing the hoses and will want to remove the shark fin to give better access to the thermostat.

Last edited by Rocket Rob; 05-11-2008 at 03:34 PM.
Old 05-11-2008, 04:55 PM
  #26  
ducnine
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This is definatley DIY. Its a bit tedious but doeable. It took me a day or so to do mine , only because while I was in there I decided to change a few more hoses that looked pretty worn, take the tank out and clean the area. All those old hoses on my car were pretty hard, almost "glued" onto the fittings so I wound up cutting the rubber stubby hoses off. That made life a bit easier.

Hopefully you will be able to put it all back together before your trip.
Old 05-11-2008, 11:59 PM
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stevepaa
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Definitely start looking at replacing all the lines and hoses. We have old cars. I replaced all my lines last year.
Old 05-12-2008, 05:14 AM
  #28  
jox
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D'oh! Of all the parts I wanted, they only had ONE of the four clamps on the shelf.
Could I damage the engine if it sits without any oil in it for a week?

The hose going to the thermostat was nearly 400 bucks! Ouch!
Old 05-12-2008, 06:24 AM
  #29  
Rocket Rob
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Originally Posted by jox
Could I damage the engine if it sits without any oil in it for a week?
Don't worry, no harm will be done. When I was changing my clutch, I had my engine sitting on a stand for several months without oil and it turned out fine.

Remember not to start the engine. I would disconnect the battery, just to be sure no else tries.

Last edited by Rocket Rob; 05-12-2008 at 07:45 AM.
Old 05-12-2008, 06:31 AM
  #30  
jox
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Again, a thousand thanks Rob! I owe you (and a lot of other people here) plenty of beers for all this help!

I will try not to start the car during this time.


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