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Engine Will Not Hold Idle?

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Old 05-02-2008, 06:17 AM
  #16  
RSGulp
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Jturbo, have you checked for air leaks in the induction system?
Old 05-02-2008, 06:31 AM
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TEN DOLLAR
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I agree with you boxey, following the procedure you describe should indeed be sufficient. I've tried it many times but my car simply does not return to "normal" without doing the diagnostics. Weird eh?

TD
Old 05-02-2008, 12:28 PM
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MisterRisky
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Originally Posted by TEN DOLLAR
I've only owned my 964 for 12 months now, so don't have much technical knowledge on the cars. However you say your battery went flat and was recently replaced. Have you had a full adaptation done since then? Every time I disconnect my battery, my car wont hold idle and stalls every time I come to a stop at a junction. Once the car has been connected up to a diagnostics machine and a full adaptation performed, the car runs fine. I do find this a particularly irritating, as most jobs require the disconnection of the battery.

Just a thought, good luck with it.

TD
The alternative method is to hook the battery up and then immediately hop in the car and drive it like you stole it. Also known as the "poor man's adaptation."
Old 05-08-2008, 11:31 PM
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jturbo
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If I take the car to the dealership will they reset the DME with the Hammer Unit? Where can I purchase the "Hammer" unit and how much does it cost?
Old 05-08-2008, 11:56 PM
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jturbo
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I found a Bosh Hammer Unit Online.

Check out this link below. Is this the correct unit.

http://tools.baumtools.com/index.jsp?menu=por
Old 05-09-2008, 06:33 AM
  #21  
Duck
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Looks right. I think there are different cartridges for different vehicles (such as Porsche 928).

The question is how much is it?
Old 05-09-2008, 09:25 AM
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dfinnegan
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Make sure there is a 911 chip. They are rare as hen's teeth!
Old 05-10-2008, 09:59 AM
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mshobe
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For visual reference to the microswitches, here is a post from my own recent thread on a slightly similar (but almost certainly not identical) idle/rough running under load issue:

https://rennlist.com/forums/showpost...8&postcount=30

Might be worth a check of the wiring harness TSB referenced in that thread, though. Simple enough to check/fix.
Old 05-10-2008, 12:33 PM
  #24  
Colin 90 C2
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Jturbo, the gas is probably fine. Mine sat for almost two years and ran just fine.
Do you have a lightweight flywheel installed?
do you have the stock chip installed?
does it hunt for idle or just quit?
when do you engage the clutch? at what rpms and speed?
was it doing this before the broken alternator belt?
is there a wire tie around the afm connector?

wow, that's a lot of questions, but it's easier to start at the beginning.
Old 05-10-2008, 11:56 PM
  #25  
jturbo
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I performed the manual reset as per your attached instructions. Then took the car out for a long drive (1.5 hours). While about an hour and ten minutes into my drive I could feel the car cutting out and then comming back if driving at lower than 2k rpms. Then the check engine light came on. In a way I was glad the check engine light came on. I thought I will just use the check engine light to pull a code! When I got back to my house and followed the procedures for reading the check engine light codes, the check engine light did not blink at all? I am wondering if this is because my 964 is an RS America and is not equiped with this function. The right hand drive (ROW) cars are not so equiped.

Any other sugestions?

I'm tempted now just to bite the bullet and take it into the Porsche stealership and pay the dreaded astronomical diagnostic fees.

I should have just bought a Corvette. At least then I would be able to drive the F!@#$%^ thing.
Old 08-04-2009, 10:39 AM
  #26  
aracer
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Default what was the problem(s)

how did this problem get resolved?
Old 08-04-2009, 11:58 PM
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Brentflyfish
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I was reading this too - interested to know if the DME procedure fixes an idle that fluctuates. My car will, in a very predictible pattern, bounce between about 800 and 400 RPMs at idle, cold or hot. I have a bad coil wire I have temporarily fixed with electricle tape so I just assumed that was the issue.



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