Autocross Set-UP ??
03-31-2008, 02:32 PM
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Autocross Set-UP ??
I want to change my suspension set up to improve handling in autocross events - I have a Cab so am working against the evil of a flexing body.
I currently have CarGraphic springs that lowered the car about 1 inch - but these are not stiff enough and am getting to much body roll -
Am running KONI adjustable all around but these appear not to be as effective as they should so am thinking of changing shocks.
Have stock sway bar in the front and RS adjustable in the back set to stiff.
Want the car to stay flatter in corners - less body roll -
Have front crossbrace and adjustable chamber plates (front) installed.
Looking for suggestions -
1. What spring weight should I run / consider
2. What shocks would be best for AutoX - would like a set up that would allow spring adjustment vs ride height - and two way adjustment for stiffness and rebound.
3. What rear suspension modifications can I make to tighten they rear up as I am (appear to be) getting a lot of wheel movement on hard corners.
Ideas and comments greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Gus
I currently have CarGraphic springs that lowered the car about 1 inch - but these are not stiff enough and am getting to much body roll -
Am running KONI adjustable all around but these appear not to be as effective as they should so am thinking of changing shocks.
Have stock sway bar in the front and RS adjustable in the back set to stiff.
Want the car to stay flatter in corners - less body roll -
Have front crossbrace and adjustable chamber plates (front) installed.
Looking for suggestions -
1. What spring weight should I run / consider
2. What shocks would be best for AutoX - would like a set up that would allow spring adjustment vs ride height - and two way adjustment for stiffness and rebound.
3. What rear suspension modifications can I make to tighten they rear up as I am (appear to be) getting a lot of wheel movement on hard corners.
Ideas and comments greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Gus
04-01-2008, 10:52 AM
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I was trying to indicate I'm also watching this thread for suggestions. Mine is stock as far as I know, except for the 17" wheels. I installed a roll bar last summer. As for autocrossing, I need to work on the nut at the wheel, then weight, suspension, and tires.
Doc
Doc
04-01-2008, 01:30 PM
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Doc -
Doesn't look like we are going to get much feedback - as I think set-up and all has been covered in other areas of discussion but you have to look hard for the info - this is what I have done to my car so far -
adjustable Koni shocks -
Cargrahic springs - lowered about 1 inch
Front strut brace
Chamber plates
RS adjustable rear sway bar - set to stiff position / front is stock
17 in rims 7 1/2 frt 9 in rear - ran 225 / 275 last year changed to 225 / 245 this year - seamed to balance the car a little better
Run Hoosier A6 tires - work great very sticky - even in the wet
I am just looking to make the next step to improve handling as I have a lot of body roll
I have issues with the nut at the wheel at times - seems to think fast when slow may work better
Still looking
Doesn't look like we are going to get much feedback - as I think set-up and all has been covered in other areas of discussion but you have to look hard for the info - this is what I have done to my car so far -
adjustable Koni shocks -
Cargrahic springs - lowered about 1 inch
Front strut brace
Chamber plates
RS adjustable rear sway bar - set to stiff position / front is stock
17 in rims 7 1/2 frt 9 in rear - ran 225 / 275 last year changed to 225 / 245 this year - seamed to balance the car a little better
Run Hoosier A6 tires - work great very sticky - even in the wet
I am just looking to make the next step to improve handling as I have a lot of body roll
I have issues with the nut at the wheel at times - seems to think fast when slow may work better
Still looking
04-01-2008, 02:08 PM
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What kind of roll bar did you add and how does it attach to the car - at what points - I have thought about it - also thinking about adding brace bars from the rear by the upper seat belt points to the front lower corner of the door. As I can really feel the car flex in tight corners - My worst issue is with the rear of the car as I am getting a lot of suspension movement which is letting the rear wheels make body contact under very hard/fast cornering - NOT GOOD
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04-01-2008, 02:29 PM
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It's a DAS Sport (no affiliation) made for 964 cabs. It uses threads for the seat belts (removed) in the rear, but you have to drill through the floor to secure the plates welded to the bar in front. It's a very snug fit.
Doc
Doc
04-01-2008, 03:33 PM
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Thanks, Gus. For a better view of the MOMO wheels:
http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/chimera.jpg
Doc
http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/chimera.jpg
Doc
04-02-2008, 10:34 AM
#12
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As you guessed it, cabs are tough. You stiffen the suspension and it will force more flex out of the body.
In my coupe I have the Bilstein HD's with H&R reds a stiffer rear adjustable sway (anti roll) bar solid bushings and a camber truss bar. Run 17"s because of the big reds and an R compound just for AX events. I also lowered the car using some heavy negative camber and have a slight amount of toe out for better turn in. It is slightly nervous in the straights but the handling is amazing. Unfortunately, the springs put me in improved class and can run against all sorts of improved cars.
Review your local club rules and see what mods you can make without impacting your classification. Although I use my car for both AX and DE so you need to find the right compromise for your purposes. I love the way the car rides on both street and track but others may not.
You might looking into stiffening bars for the cab or the roll bar as suggested to help eliminate the flex.
If your new to the sport I suggest just taking it out as is and seeing what it feels like. Just remember slow in fast out and you can make up lots of time.
good Luck
In my coupe I have the Bilstein HD's with H&R reds a stiffer rear adjustable sway (anti roll) bar solid bushings and a camber truss bar. Run 17"s because of the big reds and an R compound just for AX events. I also lowered the car using some heavy negative camber and have a slight amount of toe out for better turn in. It is slightly nervous in the straights but the handling is amazing. Unfortunately, the springs put me in improved class and can run against all sorts of improved cars.
Review your local club rules and see what mods you can make without impacting your classification. Although I use my car for both AX and DE so you need to find the right compromise for your purposes. I love the way the car rides on both street and track but others may not.
You might looking into stiffening bars for the cab or the roll bar as suggested to help eliminate the flex.
If your new to the sport I suggest just taking it out as is and seeing what it feels like. Just remember slow in fast out and you can make up lots of time.
good Luck
04-02-2008, 01:18 PM
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Anthony -
your set up sounds about like mine - my front camber is 3 degrees with a little tow out - 1/16 inch - get the same feel in the straights - with SCCA I run in ASP so am up against Vettes - I need more HP and better handling - tighter slower AX tracks I do OK, but longer more open tracks I am behind - I am trying to get the car to stay a little flatter in the turns/ less body roll and I really need to tighten up the rear somehow. As I am getting a lot of rear wheel movement - may need to replace the bushings in the rear arms - Thanks for your feed back
This is what I have-
Adjustable Koni shocks -
Cargrahic springs - lowered about 1 inch
Front strut brace
Chamber plates
RS adjustable rear sway bar - set to stiff position / front is stock
17 in rims 7 1/2 frt 9 in rear - ran 225 / 275 last year changed to 225 / 245 this year - seamed to balance the car a little better
Run Hoosier A6 tires - work great very sticky - even in the wet
your set up sounds about like mine - my front camber is 3 degrees with a little tow out - 1/16 inch - get the same feel in the straights - with SCCA I run in ASP so am up against Vettes - I need more HP and better handling - tighter slower AX tracks I do OK, but longer more open tracks I am behind - I am trying to get the car to stay a little flatter in the turns/ less body roll and I really need to tighten up the rear somehow. As I am getting a lot of rear wheel movement - may need to replace the bushings in the rear arms - Thanks for your feed back
This is what I have-
Adjustable Koni shocks -
Cargrahic springs - lowered about 1 inch
Front strut brace
Chamber plates
RS adjustable rear sway bar - set to stiff position / front is stock
17 in rims 7 1/2 frt 9 in rear - ran 225 / 275 last year changed to 225 / 245 this year - seamed to balance the car a little better
Run Hoosier A6 tires - work great very sticky - even in the wet
04-02-2008, 01:52 PM
#14
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Anthony -
your set up sounds about like mine - my front camber is 3 degrees with a little tow out - 1/16 inch - get the same feel in the straights - with SCCA I run in ASP so am up against Vettes - I need more HP and better handling - tighter slower AX tracks I do OK, but longer more open tracks I am behind - I am trying to get the car to stay a little flatter in the turns/ less body roll and I really need to tighten up the rear somehow. As I am getting a lot of rear wheel movement - may need to replace the bushings in the rear arms - Thanks for your feed back
This is what I have-
Adjustable Koni shocks -
Cargrahic springs - lowered about 1 inch
Front strut brace
Chamber plates
RS adjustable rear sway bar - set to stiff position / front is stock
17 in rims 7 1/2 frt 9 in rear - ran 225 / 275 last year changed to 225 / 245 this year - seamed to balance the car a little better
Run Hoosier A6 tires - work great very sticky - even in the wet
your set up sounds about like mine - my front camber is 3 degrees with a little tow out - 1/16 inch - get the same feel in the straights - with SCCA I run in ASP so am up against Vettes - I need more HP and better handling - tighter slower AX tracks I do OK, but longer more open tracks I am behind - I am trying to get the car to stay a little flatter in the turns/ less body roll and I really need to tighten up the rear somehow. As I am getting a lot of rear wheel movement - may need to replace the bushings in the rear arms - Thanks for your feed back
This is what I have-
Adjustable Koni shocks -
Cargrahic springs - lowered about 1 inch
Front strut brace
Chamber plates
RS adjustable rear sway bar - set to stiff position / front is stock
17 in rims 7 1/2 frt 9 in rear - ran 225 / 275 last year changed to 225 / 245 this year - seamed to balance the car a little better
Run Hoosier A6 tires - work great very sticky - even in the wet
04-03-2008, 02:56 PM
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I wish I knew - I will try and see if I can read some info on the springs tonight - I got them from a chap in GB who changed to something else / so are not real stiff, more along the RS line.
I have Quaife LSD - that is why I reduced my rear tire size to 245 / 17 - I am still getting a lot of bite - Am really just learning that I have got to slow down a little more and then get the car pointed in the right direction just before I hit the pedal. Traction is good, so much so on hard cornering I am pulling the inside front wheel up off the ground - Have looked at some 235 / 17 tires - but when I matched the actual measurements against the Hoosier 225 they were the same - I am thinking of trying an 8 inch front rim to see if that help a little more / trying to get a flatter tire surface.
I have Quaife LSD - that is why I reduced my rear tire size to 245 / 17 - I am still getting a lot of bite - Am really just learning that I have got to slow down a little more and then get the car pointed in the right direction just before I hit the pedal. Traction is good, so much so on hard cornering I am pulling the inside front wheel up off the ground - Have looked at some 235 / 17 tires - but when I matched the actual measurements against the Hoosier 225 they were the same - I am thinking of trying an 8 inch front rim to see if that help a little more / trying to get a flatter tire surface.