Oil and big error lights on !!!
03-22-2008, 01:17 PM
#31
Nordschleife Master
911 OIL PRESSURE
http://www.sempca.org/techtips/oil_pressure/text.htm
"A Technical Question Answered
What do you consider to be an acceptable oil pressure for an early 911?
I show a cold idle pressure of 20 psi and 55 psi at 4000 rpm. With the engine hot I show 5 psi at idle and 50-52 at 4000 rpm.
Bruce Anderson: It is very common for the early 911s to have low oil pressure
at idle when the engine is warm. Many of the 911s have had oil pressure
warning lights which are set for less than ten psi.
---- Porsche says----
in their
owner's manual that at idling speeds with the engine oil hot, it is normal for
the warning light to light up
---without risking ----
the operating safety of the
engine. It still had this note in the Carrera 2/4 owner's manual.
Where you really need to check your car's oil pressure is not at idle, but when
the engine is warm (oil temperature 80:C=176:F) and running at 5000 rpm. For
the Carrera, the oil pressure should be above 4.0 atmospheres (59 psi), but
should not exceed 7.0 atmospheres (103 psi). Some of the earlier cars
recommended 5.5-atmosphere pressure at 5000 rpm, so somewhere between 4.0
atmospheres and 5.5 atmospheres would be expected oil pressure using this
test. Our rule of thumb check for a 911 warmed to operating temperature is 10
pounds to 1 bar of oil pressure for every 1000 rpm engine speed. Using my rule of thumb, you are still OK. You don't really make the 4.0 Porsche spec, but
just barely miss it."
Between 1 and 2 when at traffic lights without gear in = > 14.5 psi , < 29psi
3 at 1500 rpm = 43.5 psi
4 at 2000 rpm = 58 psi
5 3000 rpm = 72.5 psi
http://www.911handbook.com/
Bruce Anderson
"My qualifications include extensive "Hands On" experience with Porsches. Here are some specifics: owned and operated a successful Porsche Repair business for ten years; Porsche appraiser for over fifteen years; National Technical Chairman of Porsche Club of America from 1981 through 2001 --and am currently the PCA Senior Technical Advisor. My Porsche related writing experience includes: Excellence Magazine's Technical Editor since 1987, Flat 6 Magazine and Talon Pointe, both French magazines; the Porsche Post and 911 & Porsche World, both British magazines; The 911 & Porsche Magazine, a Japanese magazine; Christophorus, the Porsche factory magazine; and Porsche Panorama, Porsche Club of America's monthly publication. I have authored additional Porsche related articles published both here and abroad. The second edition of my book on Porsche 911's, Porsche 911 Performance Handbook, was released in December 1996.
I have been working on Porsches since 1962; 911's since 1966. In the winter of 1966-67 some friends and I bought a half a dozen engines that were badly damaged in a shipwreck off the Azores. New 911's were being transported by sea, the ship was rammed by another, the hold flooded, the cars broke loose and the bodies were unsalvageable. But we were able to buy the engines. We tore those engines down, resurrected them and installed them in 911's that were in need of an engine for one reason or another and also converted a couple of 912's to 911's.
911 engines. I was able to put my education into play as a member of a winning race team. We won the prestigious Porsche Cup, Porsche Team Cup, IMSA GTR, GT, and GTO championships along with the FIA World endurance championship. My education continues today as I help others learn about these great cars via my technical articles and books; by offering instruction through our Porsche training courses started in 1986; and by giving technical presentation lectures on Porsches and the 911 engines.
As Technical Advisor, Porsche Club of America, and Technical Editor, Excellence Magazine, I write an ongoing technical Q&A column as well as feature articles for these publications. Excellence Magazine also publishes my series of ongoing articles entitled "Porsche Market Report". This series reflects on the market value of various Porsche models. Additionally, I sit on the Advisory Board of N.A.D.A. Exotic, Collectible and Special Interest Cars. Many articles I have written deal not only with Porsche technical information, but on all aspects of interest to Porsche enthusiasts including coverage of events such as the annual Porsche Parade, Speedsterfest, La Carrera Panamericana, Daytona and Le Mans races."
"A Technical Question Answered
What do you consider to be an acceptable oil pressure for an early 911?
I show a cold idle pressure of 20 psi and 55 psi at 4000 rpm. With the engine hot I show 5 psi at idle and 50-52 at 4000 rpm.
Bruce Anderson: It is very common for the early 911s to have low oil pressure
at idle when the engine is warm. Many of the 911s have had oil pressure
warning lights which are set for less than ten psi.
---- Porsche says----
in their
owner's manual that at idling speeds with the engine oil hot, it is normal for
the warning light to light up
---without risking ----
the operating safety of the
engine. It still had this note in the Carrera 2/4 owner's manual.
Where you really need to check your car's oil pressure is not at idle, but when
the engine is warm (oil temperature 80:C=176:F) and running at 5000 rpm. For
the Carrera, the oil pressure should be above 4.0 atmospheres (59 psi), but
should not exceed 7.0 atmospheres (103 psi). Some of the earlier cars
recommended 5.5-atmosphere pressure at 5000 rpm, so somewhere between 4.0
atmospheres and 5.5 atmospheres would be expected oil pressure using this
test. Our rule of thumb check for a 911 warmed to operating temperature is 10
pounds to 1 bar of oil pressure for every 1000 rpm engine speed. Using my rule of thumb, you are still OK. You don't really make the 4.0 Porsche spec, but
just barely miss it."
Between 1 and 2 when at traffic lights without gear in = > 14.5 psi , < 29psi
3 at 1500 rpm = 43.5 psi
4 at 2000 rpm = 58 psi
5 3000 rpm = 72.5 psi
http://www.911handbook.com/
Bruce Anderson
"My qualifications include extensive "Hands On" experience with Porsches. Here are some specifics: owned and operated a successful Porsche Repair business for ten years; Porsche appraiser for over fifteen years; National Technical Chairman of Porsche Club of America from 1981 through 2001 --and am currently the PCA Senior Technical Advisor. My Porsche related writing experience includes: Excellence Magazine's Technical Editor since 1987, Flat 6 Magazine and Talon Pointe, both French magazines; the Porsche Post and 911 & Porsche World, both British magazines; The 911 & Porsche Magazine, a Japanese magazine; Christophorus, the Porsche factory magazine; and Porsche Panorama, Porsche Club of America's monthly publication. I have authored additional Porsche related articles published both here and abroad. The second edition of my book on Porsche 911's, Porsche 911 Performance Handbook, was released in December 1996.
I have been working on Porsches since 1962; 911's since 1966. In the winter of 1966-67 some friends and I bought a half a dozen engines that were badly damaged in a shipwreck off the Azores. New 911's were being transported by sea, the ship was rammed by another, the hold flooded, the cars broke loose and the bodies were unsalvageable. But we were able to buy the engines. We tore those engines down, resurrected them and installed them in 911's that were in need of an engine for one reason or another and also converted a couple of 912's to 911's.
911 engines. I was able to put my education into play as a member of a winning race team. We won the prestigious Porsche Cup, Porsche Team Cup, IMSA GTR, GT, and GTO championships along with the FIA World endurance championship. My education continues today as I help others learn about these great cars via my technical articles and books; by offering instruction through our Porsche training courses started in 1986; and by giving technical presentation lectures on Porsches and the 911 engines.
As Technical Advisor, Porsche Club of America, and Technical Editor, Excellence Magazine, I write an ongoing technical Q&A column as well as feature articles for these publications. Excellence Magazine also publishes my series of ongoing articles entitled "Porsche Market Report". This series reflects on the market value of various Porsche models. Additionally, I sit on the Advisory Board of N.A.D.A. Exotic, Collectible and Special Interest Cars. Many articles I have written deal not only with Porsche technical information, but on all aspects of interest to Porsche enthusiasts including coverage of events such as the annual Porsche Parade, Speedsterfest, La Carrera Panamericana, Daytona and Le Mans races."
03-22-2008, 04:01 PM
#32
Rennlist Member
oil
bruce, spruce, apple juice
he is referring to pressure and this is his rule of thumb. only be concerned at oil pressure at higher speeds??? ok if you say so I would too, but idle does not matter???? you have to read between the lines. oil pressure is affected by oil viscocity. oh well bruce said my car was worth 26,000 in excellent condition and i was offered 32K and walked so like i said you have to take what info is available and go from there. plus if you do not own a tiptronic how would anyone know, maybe you need to address that crowd. and you would have a more realistic answer.
he is referring to pressure and this is his rule of thumb. only be concerned at oil pressure at higher speeds??? ok if you say so I would too, but idle does not matter???? you have to read between the lines. oil pressure is affected by oil viscocity. oh well bruce said my car was worth 26,000 in excellent condition and i was offered 32K and walked so like i said you have to take what info is available and go from there. plus if you do not own a tiptronic how would anyone know, maybe you need to address that crowd. and you would have a more realistic answer.
03-22-2008, 04:10 PM
#33
Rennlist Member
from search on low oil pressure
Does it go away once you bring the engine up to speed/ load? Mine had a problem in traffic at idle and hot with Mobil1 0W30. Now with Valvoline Racing 20W50 - no problems.
Dave
Jasko
View Public Profile
Send a private message to Jasko
Send email to Jasko
Find More Posts by Jasko
Add Jasko to Your Buddy List
04-24-2006, 07:49 PM #17
Heirsh
Addict
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 906
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I think opinions on oil are more varied than I ever thought from some of the conversations in other threads.
Its just my opinion, but I would always lean towards the thick side with these cars. I ran 5w40 M1 and I considered it too thin. 15w-50 M1 Seemed fine. I'm now running Castrol 10w60 and it seems fine as well.
__________________
1990 C2 White
Heirsh
View Public Profile
Send a private message to Heirsh
Send email to Heirsh
Find More Posts by Heirsh
Add Heirsh to Your Buddy List
04-25-2006, 02:20 AM #18
eddychan
User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 285
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
yes ! thinker oil never gave me such problem.
I only try this new oil and I think I better go back to 15W50.
The temp gauge and the cooling is fine, it never got to the danger level and it gets very hot in Hong Kong especially in the traffic jam.
Cheers!
Eddy
eddychan
View Public Profile
Send a private message to eddychan
Send email to eddychan
Visit eddychan's homepage!
Find More Posts by eddychan
Add eddychan to Your Buddy List
04-25-2006, 07:22 PM #19
Richard Curtis
Addict
Rennlist Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Fairfax Station, Va. USA
Posts: 335
Dave
Jasko
View Public Profile
Send a private message to Jasko
Send email to Jasko
Find More Posts by Jasko
Add Jasko to Your Buddy List
04-24-2006, 07:49 PM #17
Heirsh
Addict
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 906
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I think opinions on oil are more varied than I ever thought from some of the conversations in other threads.
Its just my opinion, but I would always lean towards the thick side with these cars. I ran 5w40 M1 and I considered it too thin. 15w-50 M1 Seemed fine. I'm now running Castrol 10w60 and it seems fine as well.
__________________
1990 C2 White
Heirsh
View Public Profile
Send a private message to Heirsh
Send email to Heirsh
Find More Posts by Heirsh
Add Heirsh to Your Buddy List
04-25-2006, 02:20 AM #18
eddychan
User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 285
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
yes ! thinker oil never gave me such problem.
I only try this new oil and I think I better go back to 15W50.
The temp gauge and the cooling is fine, it never got to the danger level and it gets very hot in Hong Kong especially in the traffic jam.
Cheers!
Eddy
eddychan
View Public Profile
Send a private message to eddychan
Send email to eddychan
Visit eddychan's homepage!
Find More Posts by eddychan
Add eddychan to Your Buddy List
04-25-2006, 07:22 PM #19
Richard Curtis
Addict
Rennlist Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Fairfax Station, Va. USA
Posts: 335
03-22-2008, 06:12 PM
#34
Nordschleife Master
That valvoline racing 20 50 , is that the SM rated oil that is missing the additives needed for our flat tappet motors ?
If so , I highly suggest you do not drive your car until you remove that oil and replace it with some good oil .
.......................................
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ight=brad+pitt
"Although already discussed in other threads, I'll point out the VR-1 was also reformulated and is now worthless. Again, shopping by brand doesn't always insure a good oil. I've had at least one customer recently have a catastrophic cam failure with the new VR-1 in an engine that had just been inspected and everything had looked like new, but run with the old stuff.
If you want to keep using a Valvoline product, your choices are the non-street-legal racing oils (not the same as VR-1) or their 4-stroke motorcycle oils. Can't comment on the m/c oils because I have not run them personally, but in my 911 I got excellent UOA's with the non-street-legal oil but because of its reduced detergency, you pretty much have to change your oil somewhere around 2,000 mi and I would dare say not to go over 3 months either, because who knows about how low the oils corrosion inhibitors might be as well."
__________________
Charles Navarro
LN Engineering
http://www.LNengineering.com
Aircooled Precision Performance
If so , I highly suggest you do not drive your car until you remove that oil and replace it with some good oil .
.......................................
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ight=brad+pitt
"Although already discussed in other threads, I'll point out the VR-1 was also reformulated and is now worthless. Again, shopping by brand doesn't always insure a good oil. I've had at least one customer recently have a catastrophic cam failure with the new VR-1 in an engine that had just been inspected and everything had looked like new, but run with the old stuff.
If you want to keep using a Valvoline product, your choices are the non-street-legal racing oils (not the same as VR-1) or their 4-stroke motorcycle oils. Can't comment on the m/c oils because I have not run them personally, but in my 911 I got excellent UOA's with the non-street-legal oil but because of its reduced detergency, you pretty much have to change your oil somewhere around 2,000 mi and I would dare say not to go over 3 months either, because who knows about how low the oils corrosion inhibitors might be as well."
__________________
Charles Navarro
LN Engineering
http://www.LNengineering.com
Aircooled Precision Performance
Last edited by Indycam; 03-22-2008 at 06:37 PM.
03-23-2008, 06:14 AM
#35
Guys thanks,really.
I've been driving around these days and had no problem with warning lights.
This sayd I will talk about switching to a thicker oil to my service asap since I will need to take the car for some other stuff.
Yesterday I had another issue wich I think is related to oil.
I found one drop on the ground,the drop was in a strange position,1 ft in front of the right rear wheel (between rear and front wheel) so actually there should be no engine parts there...it's the third time since I own the car that I see a drop in the same position...the drop was coloured kind of red.
I've been driving around these days and had no problem with warning lights.
This sayd I will talk about switching to a thicker oil to my service asap since I will need to take the car for some other stuff.
Yesterday I had another issue wich I think is related to oil.
I found one drop on the ground,the drop was in a strange position,1 ft in front of the right rear wheel (between rear and front wheel) so actually there should be no engine parts there...it's the third time since I own the car that I see a drop in the same position...the drop was coloured kind of red.
03-23-2008, 01:20 PM
#36
Nordschleife Master
The oil system runs from the back of the car to the front along the right hand side of the car .
The oil cooler is just in front of the right front wheel , the hoses that run up to the oil cooler run along the side of the car .
The power steering lines also run from the back of the car to the front .
What color is your motor oil ?
What color is your power steering fluid ?
How do they compare to the color of the drops ?
If you put a drop of each on a white card and then do the same with the drip from the car ....
The oil cooler is just in front of the right front wheel , the hoses that run up to the oil cooler run along the side of the car .
The power steering lines also run from the back of the car to the front .
What color is your motor oil ?
What color is your power steering fluid ?
How do they compare to the color of the drops ?
If you put a drop of each on a white card and then do the same with the drip from the car ....
